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Plenum leak between engine block and intake

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Old Dec 6, 2017 | 10:21 AM
  #1  
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Plenum leak between engine block and intake

well Yesterday my truck showed the latest leak on the passenger side where the plenum meets the block there are very tiny bubbles appearing the compromised area appears to be less than 1MM in length.

Of course and possible repairs or tricks used would be appreciated to temporarily lessen the leak.

Ultimately I’m feeling locked in on the riff raff billet set as for me applying the ford gray silicone seems like a possible nightmare/ would leave me with something to worry about after the repair. If I didn’t already feed the truck and boat a 5 course meal this week alone the title would have been plenums on the way!! Lol
thank you
 
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Old Dec 6, 2017 | 10:24 AM
  #2  
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Technically it's not the block, it's the head and I don't think that there is a shortcut to reduce or eliminate that leak so you need to determine if it's bad enough for you to dive into it and when.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2017 | 01:59 PM
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I'm cheap and I have a set of RR billet plenums. Some have good luck with the oem plenums and gray silicone.

Just be aware that you have to remove some stuff, including mounts in order to use the billet plenums.

Do yourself a favor and search my posts to find where I did mine and made my own tapered washers to make up for the missing info and pieces.

It might save you tons of aggravation. Other than that it was rather simple

100psi I think is the quoted holding power = permanent peace of mind
 
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Old Dec 6, 2017 | 02:00 PM
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Yes that’s right. The leak appears minimal for now and EGT are running not elevated going to swap them out on the next round when I do the front shocks and sway bar links.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2017 | 02:02 PM
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Thanks I will deffinelty check that out nothing like those runs to the store in the middle of the job to really add up the work time.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2017 | 06:24 PM
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I can tell you what I did in this situation. When I have to go this deep to fix a plenum leak...





...you can bet I'll pick the option that doesn't leave me thinking "I sure hope that bass turd holds".









 
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Old Dec 6, 2017 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
I can tell you what I did in this situation. When I have to go this deep to fix a plenum leak...
I eventually listened to this advice. Took a while, but glad I did. We all have to work within our time and budgets as we go.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 08:53 AM
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Yes exactly looks like the Riff Raff plenum is on the list. I don’t mind deleting the AIH it’s not even connected my family threw the insulator out in addition to boat parts and Alfa Romeo’s parts a while ago. Of Course they said oooopppsss just buy new ones like it is a 2017 Honda. Anyways so it’s not connected just sitting there held by black RTV as the P.O. stripped out the threads on the CFM+ spider producing a major boost leak but I have always been hesitant to pull it since then about 3 years ago. Pretty much I don’t want to have to buy another spider. At the minimum I will delete it on the other end.

The stud option by Walleyehunter looks clean and it’s an excuse to use some marine grade stainless steel which I’m always a fan of.

Tugly I didn’t see any studs on your install how did you address putting the truck back together without them?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 08:54 AM
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Yes exactly looks like the Riff Raff plenum is on the list. I don’t mind deleting the AIH it’s not even connected my family threw the insulator out in addition to boat parts and Alfa Romeo’s parts a while ago. Of Course they said oooopppsss just buy new ones like it is a 2017 Honda. Anyways so it’s not connected just sitting there held by black RTV as the P.O. stripped out the threads on the CFM+ spider producing a major boost leak but I have always been hesitant to pull it since then about 3 years ago. Pretty much I don’t want to have to buy another spider. At the minimum I will delete it on the other end.

The stud option by Walleyehunter looks clean and it’s an excuse to use some marine grade stainless steel which I’m always a fan of.

Tugly I didn’t see any studs on your install how did you address putting the truck back together without them?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 04:25 PM
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It's been a while since this work was done, but I remember mounting something where the tall bolts are.


 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 04:39 PM
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John, what was the problem with your RiffRaff billet plenum kit again? It didn't have a bolt or two specific to the Excursion or something does not apply to the trucks?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 07:37 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Sous
John, what was the problem with your RiffRaff billet plenum kit again? It didn't have a bolt or two specific to the Excursion or something does not apply to the trucks?
Here's the post with details and the thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17208174

No studs are in the kits now. You must:

1. Delete AIH relay
2. Delete Fuel line clamp on passenger side
3. Remove or relocate AIH Ground
4. Attach GPCM mount directly against the new intake, which would require removing bolts from intake to remove the mount in the future for any work

Email I sent (my text):

Per our conversation, these are the tapered washers I made to fit the intake plenums from tapered allen keyed bolts I had on the shelf.

They were likely not metric, but I drilled 21/64" bit with a drill press, which popped the heads off the threaded portion that was in the vice.

The pics are without any deburring.

VERY SIMPLE and quick.

Likely much cheaper and faster than turning tapered washers yourself. Just drop them into solution to match your intakes and done.

Don't forget my $.05 royalty for each one
Washers I made.



I thought I had other pics but can't put my hands on them right now. Maybe I will grab more pics of them tomorrow. I might not have taken them before, I was pretty frustrated with the necessity to manufacture my own studs for a proper fit.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 07:45 PM
  #13  
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I found some raw pics. I cut the heads off longer bolts I had here and added a new tapered washer I made with extra nuts so I could tighten down the intakes and then have installed studs with nuts to attach whatever mount went to that location.








 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 07:50 PM
  #14  
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Would I order them again? Yep. But I would have/make studs and tapered washers first. I lost quite a few days and lots of time searching and working out what would be the solution.

Hopefully these pics and info will help save you time and effort. Not sure if it qualifies as a "mod of a mod" but certainly an "improvement" LOL. YMMV.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 07:58 PM
  #15  
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I wrapped a piece of tubing around the passenger fuel line to prevent the rub through of that notorious clamp.

 
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