What about the signal wire from the OEM harness to the AIH relay, what did you do with that, or how did you cap it off?

This is troubling... You should not be fabricating hardware for a kit that you bought new that was built for a specific purpose. Let us know how you get along with this. I understand that RiffRaff is no longer providing the studs, but if pieces are missing or are not right based on the other steps in the instructions, that is something different entirely. This has not been my experience in dealing with Clay, but I have not purchased the billet plenum kit before.

 

It has been a while since I did mine but if I remember right the three regular Allen bolts mount the GPCM bracket down using the tapered spacers between the bracket and the plenum.

 

Thanks for everyone’s replies and help I’m about a month out from this project.
1.Clockspring
2. Pleneums
3. Front shocks
4. Sway bar links
5. Overload leaf spring replacement
is my short list atm lol

 

Do the spacers lift the bracket off the plenum? The description sounds the closest to the pic in the instructions, except for bolts vs studs.

I still don't like the then requirement to remove your plenum sealing bolts in order to remove the bracket. Not wise, IMHO.

 

FYI. Shocks are often on special for Buy 3 get 4th free. Have you already replaced the rear shocks? It might be a good idea to replace all 4 at once, if you haven't.

While doing plenums, have you replaced your HPO hoses and fittings? They are a 100k service interval, but many of us have done them at or by 200k.

How about the Parker sleeves in your fuel lines at the bowl and head fittings?

Have you rebuilt your fuel bowl with new orings throughout?

There are other things, but IMHO, fuel and oil are the most critical items. A leak when under pressure can spray onto hot turbo and exhaust. Doesn't happen often, but it can and does burn down trucks

The good news is if you remove your fuel bowl to rebuild it, you have really easy access to the HPOP fittings and hose connectors, and the bowl-side fuel lines and front head fuel line.

It's a good time to clean your valley really well, too. I would to that BEFORE removing the old plenums.

If you're like me and have to do upgrades a couple at a time, I'd do the fuel bowl and parker sleeves first and wash out the valley with Simple Green really well. Then look for any leaks and address them before/during your plenum work- when you have the valley clear again.

Those are some thoughts and suggestions. But remember, it is your truck and your project- do it at a pace and order in which YOU are most comfortable.

Ask questions and look at the project/maintenance and build threads on the site. Pictures are where this site stands out. I like to have an idea what I will see and get into when doing a teardown on something new to me. With so many people taking and sharing pics, making writeups, and answering questions, most things are well withing the average mechanically inclined fellow's area...although sometimes just over the "comfort zone line" LOL!

 

Yes it does lift the bracket off the plenums. It's only three bolts you would have to remove if you needed to remove the bracket. As thick as the plenums are you won't habe any issues with the o-ring seal. I do wish they would update their instructions so you know what you are getting.

 

Thanks for the confirmation.

I underlined the part that is unacceptable, IMHO. For 50 cents in hardware, why on earth would anyone remove a critical sealing fastener, let alone 3 in the same area?

That is the whole purpose of studs. Heck, even Ford OEM got that part right

Everyone is welcome to their opinion, though. Some won't think it a big deal. I guess if you put it all together and never plan to remove anything, ever...but then why not just weld all the parts on?

I chose to make studs for mine. My plenums are sealed and will remain so, even if I have to remove brackets. *I* consider that the "right way" but it certainly is not the "only way." At least the oring is replaceable, worst case

As always, we all make our own choices as to what we want to do to our trucks and how we want to do them. And that is allowed- as long as PICS are shared!

 

FYI. are often on special for Buy 3 get 4th free. Have you already replaced the http://rd.bizrate.com/rd?t=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2Fpd%2FNewAge-Products-Outdoor-Kitchen-Aluminum-Alloy-45-Corner-Cabinet-Aluminum-Alloy%2F1000273597%3Fcm_mmc%3DSCE_ShopzillaFeed-_-SeasonalOutdoorLiving-_-SosGrills-_-1000273597%3ANewAge_Products%26CAWELAID%3D%26kpid%3D1000273597%26szredirectid%3DSZ_REDIRECT_ID&mid=29931&cat_id=20000001&atom=10678&prod_id=&oid=8258551347&pos=1&b_id=18&bid_type=9&bamt=9a2afb930702cd49&cobrand=1&ppr=f785f33dceae115d&af_sid=95&mpid=1000273597&keyword=rear%20shocks&rf=af1&af_assettype_id=10&af_creative_id=2975&af_id=26865&af_placement_id=1? It might be a good idea to replace all 4 at once, if you haven't.
Yes just did the rear I found a set of 5200 for 137 for the front.

How about the Parker sleeves in your at the bowl and head fittings?
I have to dig into this engine so often it feels the sleeves are always new lol these are one time use only especially on the marine Application

Have you rebuilt your fuel bowl with new oringsthroughout?

Another yes recently did the FPR the housing would whine (barely audible) at shutdown indicating a worn spring Fuelncross over is also on the list after the short one

There are other things, but IMHO, fuel and are the most critical items. A leak when under pressure can spray onto hot and . Doesn't happen often, but it can and does burn down

And this already happened to me not fun at all opening the hood I already thought it was on fire with all the smoke and galllons of oil dumping out. I went with a ORB#5 stud to a JIC fitting for custom hoses as I felt 2 custom hoses for 75 or 90 and 90 for the hoses plus 60 for the fittings to do the most as far as leak prevention.

This work was done after the 375 mile tow home of course now I keep a fire extinguisher on board

 

Sorry idk what happened there my all text reply picked up some interference when posting I see

 

Hey, at least no **** showed up.

 

I'll make you blokes some special washers...out of T-303 SST.

 

That's a great offer! I'd take him up on it if you are considering studs. Luckily I had some bolts that I could mod. Tapers are a real bear to make otherwise

I can't rep him...or just about anyone, I think.

 

I know I'm reviving an old thread, but did anyone get around to making the tapered washers or come up with another solution?
I don't have the AIH nor a GPCM but i would rather use studs than bolts.

 

Just tell me what you want in the tapered washer....easy. I could make a stud that has the tapered area on it....but now we are talking about a little work.

 

Want as in material?
Or size?
Cause i don't know the thread size for the plenum bolts.
For material, a stainless would be best, IDC if its 304, 306 17-4 etc.
LMK how much the material is and how much time you spend making it, i will pay you.