Plenum leak between engine block and intake
John, just to be clear.
1. Are the required bolts (ones you milled) included with the kit now or were you saying they are not included, even now?
2. AIH relay needs to be deleted?
3. Delete fuel line clamp, unless something is fabricated like you did in order to keep the clamp?
4. What did you do with, or how did you cap off the harness wires that went to the AIH relay?
Hopefully these pics and info will help save you time and effort. Not sure if it qualifies as a "mod of a mod" but certainly an "improvement" LOL. YMMV.
Without making your own bolts and washers, there isn't anywhere to mount the AIS solenoid. Mine still has the solenoid, which I will be deleting. I've removed the heater part.
When I do, I will order that part to keep the ends on the stock wiring, just in case I ever want to reinstall the AIS. It also has some additional wires on it, not sure what all may be junctioned on the solenoid itself, I have to look into that.
Here's a pic of the AIS solenoid and you can see how some of the new studs are used. I am adding a close up of the mod I made to the fuel clamp to prevent rubbing.
@ RigCity- Hopefully these pics and the info/tips will save you some time and let you plan ahead for how you'll deal with things you might encounter.
It really isn't a bad job. Ignoring the stud/washer/mounts issues, the most difficult part was installing the orings on the new plenums. Take your time, work it into the grooves, push or pull it some (like spreading pizza dough on a pan, stretch or bunch so no thin spots) and get it all to fit nicely. I had my daughter hold the one section in place so I didn't pull it out of the groove as I worked my way to the other end.
I tried to keep an even thickness and tension on the orings all the way around the plenum. It is really an impressive part. I'd buy them again, even if it didn't come with any bolts
If you need more tapered washers like I did, take note that I drilled the heads of tapered bolts and popped off the shaft, which made perfect tapered washers. Metric all-thread would work nicely for the studs. I had longer bolts here I cut the heads off, but it is what I had around after the far-from-me box stores didn't have what I needed.
Any questions, just give a yell. If there is something that can go wrong, I've probably already done it! LOL.
Riffraff Diesel Billet Intake Manifold Plenums for Ford 7.3L 94-03
Riffraff Diesel Billet Intake Manifold Plenums for Ford 7.3L 94-03
Good on Clay for adding this note!
1. The GPCM (Excursions only) mounting bracket needed studs, too. Otherwise it would have been directly against the plenum. If ever removing the bracket...say to service the HPOP fitting on the head side for example...you would have to remove the bolts that hold the plenum seal.
Here's a pic of that from the RRD install instructions (I haven't checked, but Clay said he was going to update them to remove this step as the kits don't have the parts any more)
2. I used double-nuts to make my threads into studs (jam nuts). So on my studs, the order goes Head, Plenum, tapered washer, washer, two opposing nuts (so I can tighten the stud using the top nut without holding the threads = good and solid with a fixed length of stud into the head), mounting bracket of whatever, washer, nut.
I hope this makes better sense.
Bottom line, once I put the intake plenums on, I am not planning on ever removing their sealing bolts. It's likely I'll have to remove AIH solenoid or GPCM bracket at some point. (I think I am going to remove AIH solenoid altogether soon).
Sure, it was a royal PIA and unwelcomed surprise while attempting to reassemble, but this is why we share our builds with so many pics. I benefit constantly from the experiences of those who have gone before and been so kind as to document and share their ups and downs.
Every once in a while it even leads to improvements in the products our vendors carry, too
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
If the clamps vibrate through the line over time, what do you thing happens when the unsecured line vibrates against the plenum, pedestal, GPCM bracket, or whatever?
But either way, if someone is interested, they can check out an option to keep the clamp and other brackets and retain the full-time, non-remove-necessary plenum bolts. Might not be important to some guys, but it was for me. Do what suits you and your truck
I don't think we have a single identical truck + mods amongst all of our brotherhood! LOL.
EDIT: I just took the below instructions directly from the RiffRaff site. http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conten...structions.pdf
21) Clean the head to plenum surface and remove the protective
rags. Install the plenums on each head using the 8 mm x 1.25
hardware. Use the 30mm long bolts in the thick portion and the
25mm long bolts in the reduced area. (Fig 7) If you have a
GPR/AIH Relay bracket, insert (3) 50mm studs at the location
shown (Fig 8). If you utilize the fuel line clamp on the passenger
head, insert a stud in that location. On the drivers side, insert a
stud in the forward lower location for the AIH ground wire.
22) Torque the bolts to 89 In‐Lb.
23) At the stud locations, install the supplied countersink spacers.
24) Install the GPR/AIH Relay bracket, fuel line clamp, and AIH
ground wire using the OEM nuts removed previously. Tighten
to 89 In‐Lb.
So appears to be no studs. I do have three long bolts with a non threaded section. Any idea where to use these? There is also only three included spacers and it mentions places for 5 in the instructions. Guess I’m gonna need to make some studs?
Start at this post and read through a couple and decide if you want to do

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17187959
Posts #69-#77 when I finished them.
M8x60mm long ...the other details are all in there, ask questions if you need to
Glad you noticed before you had it all torn down. Now to ask yourself if it matters if you don't use studs. It did to me, especially being an Excursion and a Saturday
















