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You can re-use whatever is on your old radiator unless they are messed up. They could be pipe/compression style or the quick connect type, which are hard to find. Which style do you have?
I wrestled with those things the first time I did one an can offer a couple of hopefully helpful tips. First, I was told by an engineer type (not a Ford guy) the proper name for these things are “quick connect” not “quick disconnect” lol. They are used during manufacturing to speed things up during testing and assembly, not to help us guys who will be working on it later. I would spray the fittings (around the tube) with some PB Blaster ahead of time and again just before disassembly to wash out any corrosion or sand that may be in there. The tool does not go in as far as you would think, it doesn’t even come close to bottoming out. Anyway, put it in place just holding a little pressure on it, note where it’s at, then push hard with a slight wiggling motion. if you end up with the plastic tool don’t twist it while pushing or it will get chewed up quickly. If it goes in 1/16 of an inch or so you are there, get a good grip on the line and pull hard with a rocking motion. If it doesn’t come out that way, a short (18-20 inches long) piece of 2x2 or 2x4 can be leveraged against the lower radiator support, there are 90° bends a few inches back on both lines. That makes a good place to get some leverage. Push the tool back in and pry at the same time. You will loose more trans fluid than a red shop rag can soak up and I’d recommend eye protection. Good luck!
The fittings will unscrew from the old radiator with you favorite wrench or socket. There is some type of sealer on the threads that will need to be cleaned off. They hold the trans cooler in the bottom tank of the radiator on the factory unit so you may feel it moving around inside there. Screw them back in the new rad with some sealer on the threads. I’ve used regular pipe sealer (in the can, not the tape) just because that’s what I had and it worked fine. The fittings may not “bottom out” in the new radiator.
Could you post a picture of the new rad where the fitting go in? There has been some discussion about the size of the passages for the trans fluid cooler, some of them look very small inside there, behind the fitting. It would be interesting to see what size it is on the ones they are selling now.
If you end up with the fittings being unusable I have a used pair I can send you. I never found a source for new ones. If you get in a pinch and it has to be done NOW, it’s possible to convert to a pipe fitting with a nipple in the rad and matching compression fittings on the lines. My local Lowe’s had one fitting and I ended up at Tractor Supply for the other half.
OP, you did not say where the fluid puddle was located under your truck. Are you sure it is from the radiator and not the EGR cooler line? It is about a 3” piece of hose that is notorious for leaking and a PITA to replace. If it is, the puddle would be under the rear of the motor.
OP, you did not say where the fluid puddle was located under your truck. Are you sure it is from the radiator and not the EGR cooler line? It is about a 3” piece of hose that is notorious for leaking and a PITA to replace. If it is, the puddle would be under the rear of the motor.
Ed
The fluid puddle was under the middle of the radiator. I have the egr deleted completely. I replaced the intake with a ported one years ago and deleted the egr cooler. The intake came welded. No hoses. You can see where it is seeping from the top seam of the radiator. Not real bad and not consistently (weird). I top it off every 2-3 months. Recently was the first time it actually left a noticeable puddle. That is when I decided to replace it. I'm going to tackle this next weekend. Going to replace the pulleys and belt at the same time. The only parts I dont have are the hoses that seem fine and the stupid threaded adapters for the tranny lines that I can not find anyplace. I will try to salvage the old ones.
The fluid puddle was under the middle of the radiator. I have the egr deleted completely. I replaced the intake with a ported one years ago and deleted the egr cooler. The intake came welded. No hoses. You can see where it is seeping from the top seam of the radiator. Not real bad and not consistently (weird). I top it off every 2-3 months. Recently was the first time it actually left a noticeable puddle. That is when I decided to replace it. I'm going to tackle this next weekend. Going to replace the pulleys and belt at the same time. The only parts I dont have are the hoses that seem fine and the stupid threaded adapters for the tranny lines that I can not find anyplace. I will try to salvage the old ones.
Thanks
Didn't see my post or you just don't want anything Dorman ........... ?
I thought I responded. I checked the fit and they say it doesnt fit this vehicle or 2004 superduty. If it does I will get them. I will try to call Dorman if I can and get some clarification. Thanks!
I wrestled with those things the first time I did one an can offer a couple of hopefully helpful tips. First, I was told by an engineer type (not a Ford guy) the proper name for these things are “quick connect” not “quick disconnect” lol. They are used during manufacturing to speed things up during testing and assembly, not to help us guys who will be working on it later. I would spray the fittings (around the tube) with some PB Blaster ahead of time and again just before disassembly to wash out any corrosion or sand that may be in there. The tool does not go in as far as you would think, it doesn’t even come close to bottoming out. Anyway, put it in place just holding a little pressure on it, note where it’s at, then push hard with a slight wiggling motion. if you end up with the plastic tool don’t twist it while pushing or it will get chewed up quickly. If it goes in 1/16 of an inch or so you are there, get a good grip on the line and pull hard with a rocking motion. If it doesn’t come out that way, a short (18-20 inches long) piece of 2x2 or 2x4 can be leveraged against the lower radiator support, there are 90° bends a few inches back on both lines. That makes a good place to get some leverage. Push the tool back in and pry at the same time. You will loose more trans fluid than a red shop rag can soak up and I’d recommend eye protection. Good luck!
The fittings will unscrew from the old radiator with you favorite wrench or socket. There is some type of sealer on the threads that will need to be cleaned off. They hold the trans cooler in the bottom tank of the radiator on the factory unit so you may feel it moving around inside there. Screw them back in the new rad with some sealer on the threads. I’ve used regular pipe sealer (in the can, not the tape) just because that’s what I had and it worked fine. The fittings may not “bottom out” in the new radiator.
Could you post a picture of the new rad where the fitting go in? There has been some discussion about the size of the passages for the trans fluid cooler, some of them look very small inside there, behind the fitting. It would be interesting to see what size it is on the ones they are selling now.
If you end up with the fittings being unusable I have a used pair I can send you. I never found a source for new ones. If you get in a pinch and it has to be done NOW, it’s possible to convert to a pipe fitting with a nipple in the rad and matching compression fittings on the lines. My local Lowe’s had one fitting and I ended up at Tractor Supply for the other half.
I will try and get a Picture of the new radiator and post tomorrow. Thanks for all the advice!