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I think I may have figured out the mystery of Tedster9's posts not appearing until the next person posts a reply. For any subscribed threads, I get an email in which his reply appears perfectly. However, the email says the content is in HTML format. That seems to wreak havoc with the forum view.
Tedster9, do you have some automatic function set to HTML? I wonder if you turned that off, maybe that would make a difference.
When testing battery and charging ability, a while ago I'm showing a total 14.1 volts charging.
With the headlights on & heater blower & radio @ about 1500 - 2000 RPM? Charging voltage at idle with no load doesn't tell us much.
I'm not trying to add a new dimension here, but do recall quite vividly a couple weeks ago doing the initial voltage drop test. I popped the hood and measured voltage while wife cranked over, voltage drop was 9.4-9.6 This was completely cold engine after sitting a few days. While subsequently continuing to test, I put on trickle charger for an hour or so to raise that voltage before continuing. When I get home, completely cold and after a few days after sitting, I will measure initial voltage at the posts, and cranking voltage. Anything below 10v at cranking I was told is not sufficient, and what about the posts, is it realistic to believe it SHOULD read 12.5? Maybe a correlation between battery drain down/not sufficient charging after truck has already been started for the day?
9.6 means the battery is toast generally speaking. No, it won't read 12.8 during cranking, it's going to drop under load, but if it drops that far it spells trouble. An hour on a slow charger is just a butterfly fart. Put it on about 6 amps and let it charge at least overnight to maybe a full day. Measure the voltage at the posts while charging. When it rises to 14.5 to 15 volts it's close to fully charged.
I think I may have figured out the mystery of Tedster9's posts not appearing until the next person posts a reply. For any subscribed threads, I get an email in which his reply appears perfectly. However, the email says the content is in HTML format. That seems to wreak havoc with the forum view.
Tedster9, do you have some automatic function set to HTML? I wonder if you turned that off, maybe that would make a difference.
Do what?! I dunno. Thing is, I have new phone and am using a different software - GarageTalk app now. So if this doesn't work, it must be the Russians, those rascals.
Do what?! I dunno. Thing is, I have new phone and am using a different software - GarageTalk app now. So if this doesn't work, it must be the Russians, those rascals.
In this thread, message #57 this morning didn't appear until Chris sent his reply. However, messages #62 and #63 from a few minutes ago appeared just fine. Did you do anything different?
In this thread, message #57 this morning didn't appear until Chris sent his reply. However, messages #62 and #63 from a few minutes ago appeared just fine. Did you do anything different?
No, just out in the garage charging my batteries. ?
Seriously though that's great advice. Everybody that works on their trucks needs a dedicated charger. Alternator doesn't cut it. It will pay for itself many times over.
I was mislead with "a fully charged battery" being one that showed 12.5 volts. Or, as I was trying to deduce at the time, if a weak battery was causing the issue or not. I was under the impression that if the voltage drop test proved "good" enough to not show enough restriction to be of concern, then low cranking voltage would lead me to believe the battery was:
A. Being drained by some mystical force
B. Not being charged properly.
with this being said, at the time, I verified voltage at the battery was 12.5 volts before testing, and that's when the results were 10.6v (if I remember correctly) voltage drop at the battery during cranking.
If what I did was incorrect, and made the testing faulty I do apologize for the misleading. I will borrow a true "charger" and redo the testing after fully charged. Again, I apologize for my assumptions!
No apology necessary, I could tell you stories... we're trying to save aggravation, time and money.
You might be well advised to thoroughly charge and take it in somewhere for a proper load test. Sometimes they use conductance testers, they may pick up a bad battery that way too. It sure sounds like it's defective though.
Voltage drop testing, dedicated battery charger.....im glad I'm not the only one learning something here. I was actually starting to convince myself I could turn a wrench! At least if I keep heading in the right direction, I'll make you proud one day Karl!
No apology necessary, I could tell you stories... we're trying to save aggravation, time and money.
You might be well advised to thoroughly charge and take it in somewhere for a proper load test. Sometimes they use conductance testers, they may pick up a bad battery that way too. It sure sounds like it's defective though.
I will put it on a charger tonight over night and test again tomorrow afternoon.
Also, would it be safe to assume the batteries directly sitting on autopart stores shelves for 5+ years have lost some charge as well and need to be properly charged before testing?
im new to battery charging I know now, so I'm not sure on load testing etc. I always thought 12.5 when vehicle was off and 14.4 charging was considered good, move on!
I was mislead with "a fully charged battery" being one that showed 12.5 volts.
Well it depends on the battery type. The standard classic lead-acid battery with filler caps on top to add water - those are fully charged at 12.65 volts at 77°F, a sealed "maintenance free" at 12.80 volts.
And before any battery can be measured accurately the surface charge must first be removed. Right after charging or driving around the voltage will read higher, maybe 13.2 volts, but it's not really an accurate picture of the true voltage. Wait overnight. Or, turn the headlights on for 5 minutes. Then wait at least ten minutes, the voltage will have stabilized. Batteries "like" to be kept charged up and will last a lot longer and won't run out of steam right away when really put to the test.
In hot weather a partially charged battery in a matter of days will start to gunk up inside, called sulfation. This is what actually kills batteries, then when the first cold snap hits come wintertime, they choke.
I will put it on a charger tonight over night and test again tomorrow afternoon.
Also, would it be safe to assume the batteries directly sitting on autopart stores shelves for 5+ years have lost some charge as well and need to be properly charged before testing?
im new to battery charging I know now, so I'm not sure on load testing etc. I always thought 12.5 when vehicle was off and 14.4 charging was considered good, move on!
Nobody sells 5 year old flooded batteries, or they shouldn't. 5 months maybe.
12.5 vs. 12.8 doesn't sound like much, but it indicates about a 60% charged maintenance free battery. It will start the truck, don't misunderstand. A 5 gallon bucket holding 3 gallons still works, but it's not full. Good batteries are getting pricey these days so it pays to maintain them. Saves wear and tear on the electrical system too.
And what designates a "good" battery vs the rest? I may as well admit my ignorance in the subject all together.
The battery will need to be load tested. This basically checks to see how many amps the battery is capable of delivering. This is either done with resistance load tester (old school) or a conductance tester (Modern).
Battery's can be fickle things but load testing usually reveals all.