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So last night was the first "cold" spell here in Virginia. It got down to about 20*. My truck sat for about 30 hours until this morning. I go out there this morning, cycle the glow plugs 3 times and give her a try. Surprisingly, she fired right up with a little smoke for about 10 seconds after it started. When I fired it up this morning, I only drove like half a mile down to the farm and shut it off. This was around 9 this morning, and I didn't get back to the truck until 6 tonight. For the first time in about 2.5 years of me daily driving the truck, tonight was the first time it didn't fire right up the first time. On the second crank, it loped and sputtered a bit, but it did start up. My question is, should I go ahead and replace the glow plugs before the weather gets colder? The "wait to start" light stays on for about 20 seconds. I'm thinking this is a little longer than normal..am I right about that? Thanks for any help guys
So last night was the first "cold" spell here in Virginia. It got down to about 20*. My truck sat for about 30 hours until this morning. I go out there this morning, cycle the glow plugs 3 times and give her a try. Surprisingly, she fired right up with a little smoke for about 10 seconds after it started. When I fired it up this morning, I only drove like half a mile down to the farm and shut it off. This was around 9 this morning, and I didn't get back to the truck until 6 tonight. For the first time in about 2.5 years of me daily driving the truck, tonight was the first time it didn't fire right up the first time. On the second crank, it loped and sputtered a bit, but it did start up. My question is, should I go ahead and replace the glow plugs before the weather gets colder? The "wait to start" light stays on for about 20 seconds. I'm thinking this is a little longer than normal..am I right about that? Thanks for any help guys
Test your GPR to make sure it's working. As already mentioned ohm your GP's to see if they're good. The WTS light does NOT determine how long the GPR is running the GP's. I wired in a Glow Plug LED into my cab, when the GPR is on the light is on, there's times the light is on for 2 minutes. The WTS light has been off for a long time at that point.
As previously stated, the WTS light doesn't designate the true on time, when I'm cycling more than once I watch my voltage to know when the plugs are truly off.
Sounds more like CPS than glow plugs. GPs just help you start, after that they are just cargo.
This one. CPS, IPR, ICP... there are other suspects. I would try CPS first, and check to make sure the nut is still on the IPR. If it stalls again, try removing the plug from the ICP and see what happens.
I will check out all of these things today. If there is oil all over the ICP sensor that means I should install a new one correct? As for the CPS, I've been told that the gray one is the best replacement...is this correct or are there better ones? For IDI Charlie, I'm in Dinwiddie county.
Correct, if your ICP plug is covered in oil it's time for replacement.
For the CPS, IIRC the black one that is no longer produced is the most sought after one, but Riffraff has the better of the ones still available for sale (can't remember which color it is).
If you were a tad closer and still had issues getting it running I'd say I could always slip over and see what we could diagnose - with that said you can always PM me as some of my family works from Richmond, and it wouldn't be too hard to grab a ride up in a major event
Block heater does help, and I normally use it, but I wasn't planning on going anywhere saturday morning. However, that wasn't the case lol. Also, I think the CPS might be my issue as the idle tends to fluctuate a little. Or could an irregular idle be the ICP or IPR? Or a combo of the 3? Lol, thanks for the info so far guys.
Correct, if your ICP plug is covered in oil it's time for replacement.
For the CPS, IIRC the black one that is no longer produced is the most sought after one, but Riffraff has the better of the ones still available for sale (can't remember which color it is).
If you were a tad closer and still had issues getting it running I'd say I could always slip over and see what we could diagnose - with that said you can always PM me as some of my family works from Richmond, and it wouldn't be too hard to grab a ride up in a major event
I appreciate that. Always nice to have someone willing to help. Hopefully I'll get it figured out though to save you a trip.
I will check out all of these things today. If there is oil all over the ICP sensor that means I should install a new one correct?
Careful, the devil is in the wording
Especially as our engines age. "Oil all over the icp sensor" could be from bad doghouse orings, leaky cac boots right above it, a fuel bowl leak that at a glance appears to be oil...
Oil inside the ICP electrical connection however is the signal for a replacement
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