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I need to find a rebuild kit for my 7.3 it has bad blow by but it never lost any of it power so I'm guessing I still got good comp. I just wanna rebuild the upper part of it just to get it stop blowing all my oil out so if anybody knows where I can get a rebuild kit to do this
Ok I did Google it but it's not that I can't find one I can't find one just to do the top part the ones I see are for the whole thing that is why I asked if any one knows and besides it will be my first time doing this
IDIs will have bad blow by and there is nothing you can do about it. A rebuilt IDI will have the same amount of blow by as a worn one, but it will use less oil.
So... don't use blow by as any indicator on an IDI.
And, typically what you'd need to fix to reduce oil usage is the piston rings, which at least needs the block honed.
Make sure you aren't leaking the oil somewhere as well.
If you want the top end done, buy a set of headgaskets and a valley pan. Drop the heads off at the machine shop of your choosing. My engine, even with reletively few miles had pretty good wear in the guides. As others have said though, blow by is just part of the IDI, they have huge ring gaps, they are designed that way.
My engine, even with reletively few miles had pretty good wear in the guides.
This is why I'm not going to be using valve seals any more in my turbo motors. It's hard enough to get lubrication as it is... And, on my trial engine, it didn't seem to make any difference in smoke or oil usage.
This is why I'm not going to be using valve seals any more in my turbo motors. It's hard enough to get lubrication as it is... And, on my trial engine, it didn't seem to make any difference in smoke or oil usage.
Lol I used about a gallon of oil on a 45 mile trip litterly smokes whole time and yes no leaks anywhere the previous owner said he tryed to use some oil additive amd the boom this happened
you said blow by not burning oil. Could be rings stuck or fried, couldve wiped guides. Would pull heads and check them, and check bores for glazing
Yeah, near as I can tell, massive oil usage is rings/bore wear.
The 88 IDI motor I had rebuilt because it used a *ton* of oil(and had a small tick) had a good .020" of bore taper, top to bottom. It still fired right up, however, and no smoke from the tailpipe.
All-in-all, I was happy with it - though the major complaint is that it comes with 0 instructions. It took me a bit of time to figure out what went where. Googling for parts that you dont know the name of can get exhausting. LOL
The only thing I struggled with was the intake pan. I got that separate from the above kit. I'm not sure why, but it just *did not* want to go back together. I would not be surprised if that leaks still.
Other than that, everything seemed to go together well. I used Permatex Aviation #3 to help seal things up. About 1-2 more days of reassembly before I can actually fire it up, but so far so good.
All-in-all, I was happy with it - though the major complaint is that it comes with 0 instructions. It took me a bit of time to figure out what went where. Googling for parts that you dont know the name of can get exhausting. LOL
The only thing I struggled with was the intake pan. I got that separate from the above kit. I'm not sure why, but it just *did not* want to go back together. I would not be surprised if that leaks still.
Other than that, everything seemed to go together well. I used Permatex Aviation #3 to help seal things up. About 1-2 more days of reassembly before I can actually fire it up, but so far so good.
YMMV
Thank you gonna get that kit, where did you get your intake pan then since you said the one in the kit don't fit properly
Thank you gonna get that kit, where did you get your intake pan then since you said the one in the kit don't fit properly
The intake was one of the "recommended purchases" with the Mahle kit. I think it *might* be a Fel-pro, but don't quote me on that. I'll see if I still have the box and can let you know. Good luck!
The intake was one of the "recommended purchases" with the Mahle kit. I think it *might* be a Fel-pro, but don't quote me on that. I'll see if I still have the box and can let you know. Good luck!
Thank you... I was wondering if I could do this with the engine still in the truck... since I'm only doing the top end.
The PO I bought the truck from said he tried adding some type of oil additive... don't remember what kind it was but any way he dumped the stuff in the engine and he said that's when it started really bad blow by issue that is why he sold it
I couldn't find the box, but I looked at my order history - that kit *does* come with an intake pan and it *is* a Fel-pro. It came in two boxes so I thought it was separate.
I was wondering if I could do this with the engine still in the truck...
This is a heated debate, but I'll give you my experience... I started this project because my oil cooler o-rings were shot. I tried replacing it with the engine in and fully in-tact and ran into problems with the space available to maneuver it back in with gaskets in place.
Everyone said pull the motor, its easier...
*Technically* they are correct, it *is* easier to work on with it out of the truck - but there is so much more that goes into it than that. Do you have the equipment? (heavy duty hoist and engine stand) Have you ever pulled/rebuilt an engine before? (I hadn't) Have you kept up regular maintenance? (My previous owner hadn't, so the further I got into it - the more things needed fixing. And it became an issue of "its already out now, might as well do it.)
My engine has been out for roughly 3-4 mos. now and I've spent probably close to $3K buying tools I didnt have, replacing parts, etc...
The biggest thing I found that I wasn't really aware of going into it - these are 20+ year old trucks. A lot of things disintegrate when you touch them and there are NO replacements parts available. I have a list of about 10 things that I couldn't find OEM or at my local salvage place that I hacked together and will hopefully replace in the future.
If it were me, doing it over again - I'd leave it in the truck and just take out the bare minimum to get at and fix what really needs to be fixed.
I couldn't find the box, but I looked at my order history - that kit *does* come with an intake pan and it *is* a Fel-pro. It came in two boxes so I thought it was separate.
This is a heated debate, but I'll give you my experience... I started this project because my oil cooler o-rings were shot. I tried replacing it with the engine in and fully in-tact and ran into problems with the space available to maneuver it back in with gaskets in place.
Everyone said pull the motor, its easier...
*Technically* they are correct, it *is* easier to work on with it out of the truck - but there is so much more that goes into it than that. Do you have the equipment? (heavy duty hoist and engine stand) Have you ever pulled/rebuilt an engine before? (I hadn't) Have you kept up regular maintenance? (My previous owner hadn't, so the further I got into it - the more things needed fixing. And it became an issue of "its already out now, might as well do it.)
My engine has been out for roughly 3-4 mos. now and I've spent probably close to $3K buying tools I didnt have, replacing parts, etc...
The biggest thing I found that I wasn't really aware of going into it - these are 20+ year old trucks. A lot of things disintegrate when you touch them and there are NO replacements parts available. I have a list of about 10 things that I couldn't find OEM or at my local salvage place that I hacked together and will hopefully replace in the future.
If it were me, doing it over again - I'd leave it in the truck and just take out the bare minimum to get at and fix what really needs to be fixed.
YMMV. Good luck!
Thank you for the advice lol this will be my first time doing this
If I did pull the engine I did built my own engine stand, and cherry picker already (imma fabricator, certified welder)
But imma take advice and try to do it all with out taking the engine out
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