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Looks good Chris. What M/C, booster, and brake valve you going to use? Steve's equation of Explorer M/C, 75ish dual diaphragm booster, and Bullnose brake valve?
Looks good Chris. What M/C, booster, and brake valve you going to use? Steve's equation of Explorer M/C, 75ish dual diaphragm booster, and Bullnose brake valve?
At the time I sourced the dual diaphragm booster from the '75 F350 (2012), I didn't know that the same basic style booster was available in the '68-'72 F250/F350 trucks (with factory front discs) The major difference between the Bumpside dual and the Dentside dual is the input rod on the Bumpside booster is adjustable. The input rod on my Dentside booster is a fixed length and not adjustable.
'68-'72 dual diaphragm booster with adjustable input rod (input rod code FT8).
Dentside dual diaphragm booster with fixed length, non-adjustable, input rod.
A 1-1/8" bore or especially a 1-1/4" bore MC on a single piston caliper disc setup may result in unhappiness with the brake response.
Those are very large bore MCs. You're likely to find the brake pedal will be very stiff and hard to push the brake pedal down with enough force to get the truck to come to a stop within a reasonable distance.
With the combination of parts I have on my truck, and the ones I installed on my friend's '72 F100, it has proven to be a very well-balanced combination.
My truck: '77 F100 front disc/suspension, '75 F350 dual diaphragm booster (54-73112), '84-'86 F150 disc/drum brake valve, new 1-1/16" bore '95 Explorer MC (NMC M3246).
My friend's truck: '75 front disc/suspension, '68-'72 F350 dual diaphragm booster, '82 F100/F150 Bullnose disc/drum brake valve, new 1-1/16" bore '95 Explorer MC.
While I prefer not to use a cast iron MC, for a multitude of reasons, some people may not like the look of the more 'modern' MC. There was also a conventional cast iron 1-1/16" (1.062") bore MC used on the '78/'79 F250/F350.
I bought and plan on using an adjustable prop valve from Wilwood.
Mainly because I figure that as much as I tow/haul with my truck, I would like to be able to adjust the rear brakes to "step up" a bit when loaded. But don't want them to always be locking up when I'm unloaded. (As they do now)
floor pans are pretty easy , I did them on Pebbles .
I sand the area with 80 on the DA to expose the spot welds first .
drill them out then i cut the area out , be careful and look at backs side for wiring and fuel/brake lines . and hidden brackets ! A chisel and hammer come in hand to pop the rest of any left over spot welds . oh lay the new pan on top of area first to get idea of how much material you can cut off .
Ultra, I thought you had once commented that the M/C was a DIN flare. I see in the photos above, all line sets are double(?) flared.
When ordering brake line, it is the inside diameter that needs to be the same. My micrometer is not small enough to get in there.
floor pans are pretty easy , I did them on Pebbles .
I sand the area with 80 on the DA to expose the spot welds first .
drill them out then i cut the area out , be careful and look at backs side for wiring and fuel/brake lines . and hidden brackets ! A chisel and hammer come in hand to pop the rest of any left over spot welds . oh lay the new pan on top of area first to get idea of how much material you can cut off .
We did pretty much that. The F-body is a little more confining that these F-100s.
None the less, we got er done.
Ultra, I thought you had once commented that the M/C was a DIN flare. I see in the photos above, all line sets are double(?) flared.
When ordering brake line, it is the inside diameter that needs to be the same. My micrometer is not small enough to get in there.
Tubing is measured by O.D. (pipe is measured by I.D.). All the hard lines were run in 3/16" tubing from the factory.
All the brake fitting connections on my truck are SAE inverted flare --with the exception of the MC on my truck. They are ISO metric bubble flare fittings.
All the new hard lines I ran was done with 3/16" tubing. 4.75mm metric tubing is also the same diameter as 3/16" tubing.
Ahh, I see the ISO metric bubble flare now. I had to blow it up pretty big.
I don't plan on doing this once or twice and therefore don't want to collect more tools for a "maybe I'll use it again". I can use an adapter from the m/c to the SAE flare, yes?
Lastly, where do you get you brake line supplies, like the springy sleeve?
Ahh, I see the ISO metric bubble flare now. I had to blow it up pretty big.
I don't plan on doing this once or twice and therefore don't want to collect more tools for a "maybe I'll use it again". I can use an adapter from the m/c to the SAE flare, yes?
Lastly, where do you get you brake line supplies, like the springy sleeve?
At the time I did this (2004), it was my first useage of installing a modern MC in an early Ford application --1999-2004 1.00" bore SN95 V6 Mustang MC, (mounted to an '87-'93 2.3L Fox Mustang booster), in a '65 Mustang fastback. At that time, I didn't have any direct connection brake line fittings to go straight from the hard lines and into the metric MC ports, without using adapters in between. This was also back when I used to use manually-adjustable proportioning valves.
Adapters don't give a professional look and they add another connection point in the system for a potential leak to occur.
However, the 3/16"-24 to 10mm x 1.0 fitting adapter is Edelmann p/n 271300. The 3/16"-24 to 12mm x 1.0 adapter is Edelmann p/n 265000.
Later on, I discovered I could get the correct (new) SAE inverted flare and ISO metric bubble flare fittings through Classic Tube, as well as the spiral wrap/armour guard/gravel guard to go over the hard line tubing.
The M10 x 1.0 bubble flare fitting is Classic Tube p/n ST8036.
The M12 x 1.0 bubble flare fitting is p/n ST8040.
The 7/16"-24 inverted flare fittings are p/n ST8006.
The 1/2"-20 inverted flare fittings are p/n ST8007.
The 9/16"-18 inverted flare fittings are p/n ST8010.
The Spiral Wrap/Armour Guard/Gravel Guard (in OE coated steel) is p/n AG1435OE.
For more money, the above fittings and the spiral wrap can be purchased in stainless steel as well.
We got the right side installed last night. As we were assembling it on the floor, something looked goofy to me. It was then I realized I had assembled the left side radius arm inside out. Therefore, ****,TOTs and I removed the left side, reassembled and reinstalled.
Today, **** SHOULD be painting the calipers red and I think he may even paint the drag link and tie-rods red. New bearings, seals, rubber hoses and brake pads await our attention.
I'll have to wait for another payday to collect the booster parts. That gives me time to do some homework with the information Ultra gave us.
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