When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have no never mind about jumping a thread. It what we’re all here for.
Just off the cuff, if the DD booster makes the break touchy, is it possible to run the adjuster in a pinch to give the pedal more travel? I think it would work until the adjusters self adjust and that would gove the driver time to get used to the change. It’s kind of like tie rods going our and after you replace them it drives like a brand new truck only in reverse
I have no never mind about jumping a thread. It what we’re all here for.
Just off the cuff, if the DD booster makes the break touchy, is it possible to run the adjuster in a pinch to give the pedal more travel? I think it would work until the adjusters self adjust and that would gove the driver time to get used to the change. It’s kind of like tie rods going our and after you replace them it drives like a brand new truck only in reverse
The probability of sensitivity is likely to happen later in the dead band of the brake pedal stoke. If there's excessive slack/travel in the pedal, the sensitivity is still going to occur when the MC starts building pressure, whether that's at the top of the pedal stroke or whether it's further into the pedal stroke. It would probably just delay the inevitable.
If this is the case of how it turns out, about the only things you could do would be to go up in MC bore diameter. Or, switch to a single diaphragm MC with a smaller bore MC. Or, switch to a bellcrank-mounted booster to change the pedal ratio. Or, switch to front discs to get away from the self-energizing front drums.
It was a long weekend. I didn’t quite get it ALL done. I have rubber line to replace and I’ll be ready to bleed the brakes OR chase down leaks. We’ll see.
We aligned the toe on **** truck and replaced the T-stat.
Wes got some fiber tech filler done on his T/A and some block sanding.
I need to get to work so I can get some rest.
This is my $300 tubing bender. That’s right, a beer bottle. It took 12 to find the right one.....<br/>
No pics, but **** water bypass tube rotted out on him and I had to graft a piece of 5/8” tubing in the manifold. He got er cleaned up and while we waited for the paint to dry on the new water pump, we finished connecting brake lines and the brake pedal.
Mamma hollared supper was ready and the garage door closed and out go the lights. Hopefully we can get er bled out tonight. I think all my flares will work but I’m afraid I have a new rubber brake line that is bad. I’ll check for evidence this evening.
No pics, but **** water bypass tube rotted out on him and I had to graft a piece of 5/8” tubing in the manifold. He got er cleaned up and while we waited for the paint to dry on the new water pump, we finished connecting brake lines and the brake pedal.
Mamma hollared supper was ready and the garage door closed and out go the lights. Hopefully we can get er bled out tonight. I think all my flares will work but I’m afraid I have a new rubber brake line that is bad. I’ll check for evidence this evening.
The copper washers that comes with the brake hoses seems to have a difficult time sealing off fluid from leaking, right out of the box.
You can take a propane torch and heat the copper washers to cherry red, let them cool off back to ambient temperature and then install them. This will anneal the washers to make them softer, to have a better chance of them sealing like they should.
The copper washers that comes with the brake hoses seems to have a difficult time sealing off fluid from leaking, right out of the box.
You can take a propane torch and heat the copper washers to cherry red, let them cool off back to ambient temperature and then install them. This will anneal the washers to make them softer, to have a better chance of them sealing like they should.
A good status report Stayton got his water pump all put back together. I couldn’t find a water bay pass tube for the 360 on short demand, so I repurposed one for another vehicle. It’s a 5/8” metal tube I cut with pipe cutter and a hacksaw. RTVed the manifold for lubrication and tapped it in. I sure hope I never have to replace it.
Many thanks to Steve for the trick to heat up the copper washers. Not only did I get the rubber lines not to leak, I didn’t find and of MY tubing flares that leak. TIT helped me bleed the brakes and we test drove it a couple of houses worth in the alley. (No grill, no lights)
That truck stops amazingly well. So good, stayton wants the same set up on his truck. I told him “I know a guy, but it’s going to cost real money”.
Again, thank you Steve for the set up and extending your knowledge as well as the rest of the Kingdom for your thoughts and humor.
Hopefully I can get the grill done this week.
Oh! The shoulder feels great by the way. I still favor it a bit though, just in case....
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
I like it when some one thinks outside the box. You pulled it off well Buddy.
