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Are new fuel lines really necessary? I don't think the H&H modifies anything outside of the tank except the addition of an lin-line fitler, which theoretically could just be cut into the factory line. Barbed fittings are easy to find. Am I missing something?
I have this on my to-do list as well - reason I am asking.
It replaces everything from the pickup foot up to the fuel pump. The only way to eliminate the quick connects from the pump suction (tank to pump) is to replace the metal line with diesel rated fuel line (hose).
The kit hasn't changed much in the 10 years since I bought it (Dennis was ITP Diesel back then and the bracket was a steel plate in an "L' shape).
Originally Posted by blakeusa
I believe most want to leave the factory lines in place in case someone wants to go back to stock and replace the fuel to pump line with high pressure rubber line for the online filter. Use fuel injection claims on the rubber lines.
That is correct. I left mine in place and taped Ziplock snack bags over the ends to prevent debris from entering the lines. It's easier to leave the line attached to the rail "just in case" as it is to remove it...although after 10 years my Hutch mod was still doing fine.
It replaces everything from the pickup foot up to the fuel pump. The only way to eliminate the quick connects from the pump suction (tank to pump) is to replace the metal line with diesel rated fuel line (hose).
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Right, but why does anything outside the tank (like quick connects) need to be eliminated? Couldn't you just cut the inline filter into the existing fuel line, use barb fittings where the filter goes, and leave the quick connects where they are? Does air infiltrate the quick connects too?
Just completed the H&H and added the in-line filter. I saw minimal noise reduction, but maybe that will increase as the air in the line works it's way out. My sender was in good shape, t looks like someone had installed a whole new unit at some point before I owned the truck.
Being able to fill the fuel tank more is pretty nice. Got 36 gallons in it after finishing the job, there were 2-3 gallons still slurping around in there. Now the annoying part is having to swipe two cards to fill up. Every damp pump around here limits your fill up to $95.
I didn't mess with the factory fuel lines at the tank, I still don't understand the need. I just installed the Riff Raff filter right before the pump, cut out that short section of flex and it fit right in.
The factory quick connect fittings seal perfectly under pressure, but allow air to get entrained when under suction (i.e. top of the fuel tank connection).
Now the annoying part is having to swipe two cards to fill up. Every damp pump around here limits your fill up to $95.
I remember the days (2008) when diesel was $5/gal and the pumps stopped you at $50. If I had the low fuel light on it would take 3 swipes to fill it up.
Originally Posted by beef ****
I didn't mess with the factory fuel lines at the tank, I still don't understand the need. I just installed the Riff Raff filter right before the pump, cut out that short section of flex and it fit right in.
The quick connect fittings hold pressure well but under suction (slight vacuum) will draw in air through the connections. With the dead-headed fuel system the air has nowhere to go but through the injectors, adding to the cackle.
Obviously Ford determined that, for whatever reason, it was okay to do that (cost vs. repairs, expected lifespan of the truck, small amounts of air were okay/acceptable, etc.) and most people left it as is.
As with any aging platform plenty of people have identified "deficiencies" and have built a better mousetrap for whatever reason. This is one of them.
The factory quick connect fittings seal perfectly under pressure, but allow air to get entrained when under suction (i.e. top of the fuel tank connection).
I think this is the CRITICAL smart advise (....that I need to take) to replace my fuel supply line from the tank to the filter. The goal is clean fuel with no air in the line for the injectors. Suction leak = air = rough running and failing injectors. Thanks for the reminder.
I was going to just cut the small section of soft line before the pump, but now gonna order that 3/8th soft pressure rated soft line and some fuel injection claims. For the $40 in parts its worth it and that's 25 ft of rated fuel line and 30 clamps (online at ebay) so you got a lot of extra.
B
Thank you on the 5/16th hose recommendation.
Have not measured or ordered but this saves me some trial and error of what fits!
Decided to just order new line and clamps vs cutting the soft line near the pump for due to possible suction leaks with the press in fittings.
Word of advice... dip the end of the hose in boiling water to soften it a bit before trying to fight it onto the hard hose nipple. There is a raised ring which allows the quick connect fitting to latch in, and it can be a real booger to get a new hose shoved past that ridge on the nipple. I even had to slightly bevel the inside of my hose with a razor to even get it started going over that little ridge.
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