Hutch Mod Pre Pump Filter - Ultimate Thread
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,352
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
You know, when I did my Racor I bought a 1"x4' piece of aluminum stock from Home Depot. I spent the time and cut it into 3" sections, rounded the edges a bit, drilled holes in them for the u-bolt and then used them as spacers. I stacked them until I had the clearance to mount the Racor without it banging into the lower flange of the frame. About a year later I saw someone had taken thin PVC pipe and made spacers, similar to how Brian did his out of metal. I thought to myself, "well crap, I should have done that".
Would have been a lot easier and A LOT less time, **** happens though and we press on. Live and learn.
Would have been a lot easier and A LOT less time, **** happens though and we press on. Live and learn.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
You know, when I did my Racor I bought a 1"x4' piece of aluminum stock from Home Depot. I spent the time and cut it into 3" sections, rounded the edges a bit, drilled holes in them for the u-bolt and then used them as spacers. I stacked them until I had the clearance to mount the Racor without it banging into the lower flange of the frame. About a year later I saw someone had taken thin PVC pipe and made spacers, similar to how Brian did his out of metal. I thought to myself, "well crap, I should have done that".
Would have been a lot easier and A LOT less time, **** happens though and we press on. Live and learn.
Would have been a lot easier and A LOT less time, **** happens though and we press on. Live and learn.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
You can get spacers like these at any hardware store. I just used long bolts and spacers to get the clearance from the frame. Link below is just for pictures.
Spacers and Standoffs, Imperial Sizes, Metric Sizes
Spacers and Standoffs, Imperial Sizes, Metric Sizes
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
Don't use stainless bolts -- generically, the stainless typically has lower "toughness" strength (higher hardness and higher degree of brittleness, though). If anything, I would upgrade to Grade 8 bolts if that's not what you used initially, but only if you experience failure.
When I used the galvanized pipe couplings on my installation, it was for my way over sized oil bypass filter unit which holds two quarts of oil, the housing is made of thick cast aluminum and is about 12" long, and it's positioned at about 30° from horizontal. Consequently, the bolts and the coupling standoffs get a large amount of cantilevered cyclical "bouncing" shear-type stresses while going down the road, and they have not budged a bit in over 8 years and at least 150K miles. I believe the large footprint where the couplings meet the frame is part of the reason for my success.
As small as the PS120 is in comparison to my huge oil filter cannister, Brian, your steel tubes should hold up just fine.
When I used the galvanized pipe couplings on my installation, it was for my way over sized oil bypass filter unit which holds two quarts of oil, the housing is made of thick cast aluminum and is about 12" long, and it's positioned at about 30° from horizontal. Consequently, the bolts and the coupling standoffs get a large amount of cantilevered cyclical "bouncing" shear-type stresses while going down the road, and they have not budged a bit in over 8 years and at least 150K miles. I believe the large footprint where the couplings meet the frame is part of the reason for my success.
As small as the PS120 is in comparison to my huge oil filter cannister, Brian, your steel tubes should hold up just fine.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 67
I didn't consider PVC for that exact reason. I was considering ordering some hex standoffs with threaded female ends on both sides so that I can bolt in from each side. I thought that would be the strongest solution but, as it turns out, it is very hard to find them in the right size and length. I did find a company that could make them but it was a custom order and I would have had to order at least 100 making it cost prohibitive. Shortly after that I was at a local home improvement store and saw the steel tube and the light bulb went off in my head. The biggest concern I have is the 6" long bolt. I used a split washer to gage the stress I put on the bolt and tightened the nut until the washer was flat and the Racor didn't feel loose. Hopefully it lasts a long time. If it doesn't my next step will be to replace the bolts with stainless steel ones to see if they hold up better.
Like the idea of the hex standoffs like you wrote but don't need 100 of them.
Surprised someone hasn't made mounts to sell on the market.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
You can get spacers like these at any hardware store. I just used long bolts and spacers to get the clearance from the frame. Link below is just for pictures.
Spacers and Standoffs, Imperial Sizes, Metric Sizes
Spacers and Standoffs, Imperial Sizes, Metric Sizes
) but nothing that matched what I was looking for that was going to cost me less than $50. After the dump truck full of cash I've dropped into the truck this past year there is a ceiling that I won't go above to over-engineer this mount. That's when I shifted gears when I came across the steel tube at Home Depot (or maybe Lowes).Don't use stainless bolts -- generically, the stainless typically has lower "toughness" strength (higher hardness and higher degree of brittleness, though). If anything, I would upgrade to Grade 8 bolts if that's not what you used initially, but only if you experience failure.
When I used the galvanized pipe couplings on my installation, it was for my way over sized oil bypass filter unit which holds two quarts of oil, the housing is made of thick cast aluminum and is about 12" long, and it's positioned at about 30° from horizontal. Consequently, the bolts and the coupling standoffs get a large amount of cantilevered cyclical "bouncing" shear-type stresses while going down the road, and they have not budged a bit in over 8 years and at least 150K miles. I believe the large footprint where the couplings meet the frame is part of the reason for my success.
As small as the PS120 is in comparison to my huge oil filter cannister, Brian, your steel tubes should hold up just fine.
When I used the galvanized pipe couplings on my installation, it was for my way over sized oil bypass filter unit which holds two quarts of oil, the housing is made of thick cast aluminum and is about 12" long, and it's positioned at about 30° from horizontal. Consequently, the bolts and the coupling standoffs get a large amount of cantilevered cyclical "bouncing" shear-type stresses while going down the road, and they have not budged a bit in over 8 years and at least 150K miles. I believe the large footprint where the couplings meet the frame is part of the reason for my success.
As small as the PS120 is in comparison to my huge oil filter cannister, Brian, your steel tubes should hold up just fine.
Reading all of this and seeing pics I am leaning towards using two galvanized pipes (female ends). May get the kind that adapt from a larger size to a smaller size, with the larger end butting up against the frame rail.
Like the idea of the hex standoffs like you wrote but don't need 100 of them.
Surprised someone hasn't made mounts to sell on the market.
Like the idea of the hex standoffs like you wrote but don't need 100 of them.
Surprised someone hasn't made mounts to sell on the market.
I used a pipe cutter to get a good perpendicular cut, filed the ends smooth, and used these for my spacers. To make it a "larger" surface area I used washers to mate up to each end between the spacer and the frame/Racor housing.
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
Like I mentioned to Brian, the size and weight of the PS120 is not a huge stressor, so I honestly don't see the value in using pipe reducers instead of either couplings or nipples. At the same time, the cost differences are minimal, so it's your call entirely.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
not sure I fully understand. I just used hollow, thick wall steel spacers, no threads. Put the bolt through the Racor then slide the spacer over the bolt, stick the bolt through the hole in the frame and put a self-locking nut on the outside of the frame. Tighten everything down and the Bolt & Nut squeeze the Racor and the spacer.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
not sure I fully understand. I just used hollow, thick wall steel spacers, no threads. Put the bolt through the Racor then slide the spacer over the bolt, stick the bolt through the hole in the frame and put a self-locking nut on the outside of the frame. Tighten everything down and the Bolt & Nut squeeze the Racor and the spacer.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
I was looking for threaded spacers when I was doing the research (and I didn't know the exact length I wanted). I knew I wanted to use 5/16-18 bolts but that was about it (they are the thickest bolts that fit through the Racor). That's when I saw the steel tube at HD/Lowes and thought of doing a little R&D. I planned to cut a few lengths and test them out to see what length would work best and then buy a spacer that size. When I finally put it together it's a lot more sturdy than I expected. I like the look, nobody is going to see it but me, and it's already paid for and installed. If I have any issues with the 6" bolts I'll move up to Grade 5 or 8 as F250_ recommended.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Baldwin BF7725 Inline Filter & Tubing recommendation
I did the Hutch Mod and reinstalled the tank. Have the bed off for new rails.
I want to replace the fuel line from the tank up to the pump completely with new hose and put the Baldwin filter up by the fuel pump.
My understanding is that I can use 3/8th fuel line from the tank supply to the filter ---- then 5/16th in for a few inches from the filter to the pump.
The fittings on the plastic Baldwin 7725 filter are 5/16 but understand that I should use 3/8th line and double clamp for the long run (tank to filter) --- but the final short connection (filter to fuel pump) I can use 5/16th
for a tight connection. Or does it really matter?
I believe the 3/8th is to keep fuel flow good and no collapse vs running 5/16th the whole way with a fitting or short piece at the tank connection.
I want to replace the fuel line from the tank up to the pump completely with new hose and put the Baldwin filter up by the fuel pump.
My understanding is that I can use 3/8th fuel line from the tank supply to the filter ---- then 5/16th in for a few inches from the filter to the pump.
The fittings on the plastic Baldwin 7725 filter are 5/16 but understand that I should use 3/8th line and double clamp for the long run (tank to filter) --- but the final short connection (filter to fuel pump) I can use 5/16th
for a tight connection. Or does it really matter?
I believe the 3/8th is to keep fuel flow good and no collapse vs running 5/16th the whole way with a fitting or short piece at the tank connection.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 833
Likes: 4
Are new fuel lines really necessary? I don't think the H&H modifies anything outside of the tank except the addition of an lin-line fitler, which theoretically could just be cut into the factory line. Barbed fittings are easy to find. Am I missing something?
I have this on my to-do list as well - reason I am asking.
I have this on my to-do list as well - reason I am asking.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
I believe most want to leave the factory lines in place in case someone wants to go back to stock and replace the fuel to pump line with high pressure rubber line for the online filter. Use fuel injection claims on the rubber lines.