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Not necessarily. If you study the panel outputs on the RUN and ACC circuits you'll see that there are functions that should have power at either position.
I don't see anything in common between RUN (ON) and ACC outputs. Sounds like you need to start with a new ignition switch.
I don't see anything in common between RUN (ON) and ACC outputs. Sounds like you need to start with a new ignition switch.
like the radio for instance. The Centech fuse panel has a fused output on the acc side, but the radio should work in either acc or run.
The only difference between accessory and run is that the coil wire should not be hot with the key in the acc position, and that does not power through the panel as the coil wire isn't fused.
I believe both the acc and the run posts on the switch should be hot when in either position, they're just switched sources where the acc bypasses the ignition circuit, and that happens at the switch not the panel.
This picture from my '69 wiring diagram shows the key acc position as acc only, and the key run position as acc & coil
You've established black/ yellow as battery+.
You mentioned 2 others, red/ white and black/ red. You say that they're both hot when the key is either in the acc or run position. Which one is hot when the coil wire is not? That's your wire to the acc lug on the panel, the other goes to the RUN lug on the panel.
This picture from my '69 wiring diagram shows the key acc position as acc only, and the key run position as acc & coil
You've estaablished black/ yellow as battery+.
You mentioned 2 others, red/ white and black/ red. You say that they're both hot when the key is either in the acc or run position. Which one is hot when the coil wire is not? That's your wire to the acc lug on the panel, the other goes to the RUN lug on the panel.
Thanks for the input. I'll check this.
One problem I see is my electric fuel pump. Now it's on the IGN side. If both IGN and ACC are hot together then the electric fuel pump would always run. Right? That would not be good.
One problem I see is my electric fuel pump. Now it's on the IGN side. If both IGN and ACC are hot together then the electric fuel pump would always run. Right? That would not be good.
Let me go look a little more.
Thanks again John and Jeff,
Kenny
You would need to power the pump through a relay so the pump would only get power when the relay is tickled by the ignition system.
I think I have it figured out thanks to John. I've been studying the schematics also.
I had the electric fuel pump installed before I tried this Centech panel. So just want to make sure on connections there.
Also it wasn't so much about saving money doing this but trying to update my fuse panel and keeping to the original schematic. But going through the troubles I'm having I might have done it different. We will see once I finish.
I'm taking the day off to clear my head and catch some surf. Be back at it tomorrow.
like the radio for instance. The Centech fuse panel has a fused output on the acc side, but the radio should work in either acc or run.
I believe both the acc and the run posts on the switch should be hot when in either position, they're just switched sources where the acc bypasses the ignition circuit, and that happens at the switch not the panel.
They are showing enough to power an aftermarket radio. 12V constant would be for it's clock. 12V switched would be for the radio's operating power. I believe your confusion started with the schematic showing what is the "On" position as Acc and Coil.
Acc only........for when you want to power the radio etc with engine off.
ON (acc and coil) wire to everything you want to work while driving. Coil, exterior lamps, etc. Some stuff like the emergency flashers usually get 12V constant.
They are showing enough to power an aftermarket radio. 12V constant would be for it's clock. 12V switched would be for the radio's operating power. I believe your confusion started with the schematic showing what is the "On" position as Acc and Coil.
Acc only........for when you want to power the radio etc with engine off.
ON (acc and coil) wire to everything you want to work while driving. Coil, exterior lamps, etc. Some stuff like the emergency flashers usually get 12V constant.
Any circuit requiring 12v constant like the flashers wouldn't connect to either ACC or RUN.
My confusion is centered around not understanding how the radio (for instance) would get power with the key in the RUN position if it's connected to the ACC side on the panel if the RUN and ACC posts on the switch are either/or instead of both hot when the key is in any position but off.
Sounds like you contend the ACC and the RUN positions on a '68 ignition switch should be either/ or instead of both on/off. I've only done this with an earlier switch and am not entirely sure they work the same.
Good morning. I wanted to post an update. Today I finally called Centech and talked to Jim, I should of called him from the beginning. Jim worked for Ford for 30 years so he was definitely familiar.
Anyways he was kinda lost and couldn't really explain why Ford designed their harness and how to rework it. He gave recommendations, like what John did in his Falcon. Get a newer ignition switch and rework from there.
Well after our 30 minute conversation I was kinda over working with my harness and am looking at Centech building me a harness. I'm throwing the towel in. Nice thing is they can build the harness and custom it for my electric fuel pump, headlight relays, and 3G alternator and will use my fuse panel that I already bought. It's what they use anyways.
I will post updates so for anyone who attempts this in the future. There is not much out there.
Red Lines are connected on the back side of the fuse box.
A B C
I'm going to try something here and hope someone can fix my thoughts if I'm off on what I'm thinking here. In both pictures I have A B C, the picture with the fuse box has 3 red lines that show connection behind. So with that said, could you not just wire the new Centech fuse boxwith the A/A B/B C/C which will then give you(power) to the out to which everend of F1-F5 go to? There are 5 fuses, 2 are powered by A, 2 are powered by Band C is powered by 1. So the take the corresponding leads and plug them in toA B C fuse end on the Cetech fuse box?
I have a 1968 F250 That I plan on doing this to if what I make out is right?
Last edited by Xand17; Jan 14, 2018 at 07:41 PM.
Reason: Forgot to ADD
thank you, after I looked at this closer my thoughts are correct I believe, just need to make sure the right letter goes to the right letter, not meaning A/A and so on long as the A B C combo letter goes right. Example B(old)/A(new), C/B and A/C
I just want to send a BIG Thank You to all you Folks here!!!
I just ordered a Centech PDP-3 fuse panel for my 68 F100 and this information you have posted will save me a ton of time and frustration I am sure!!
Thanks again
Sounds like you need to start with a new ignition switch.
could have done this?
