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Centech Fuse Panel install

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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 07:36 PM
  #1  
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From: Cypress
Centech Fuse Panel install

Hello. I started a similar thread but didn't get much response. I started this Centech panel install and I'm starting to think it would of been easier to just install the whole harness. But anyways I'm already into it. I have a few questions maybe I can get some help. And thanks.

First off it appears that a lot of the wiring gets tied in from other sources, ignition switch, light switch. So basically I need 3 sources to get this going, battery(constant power), accesory(for acc mode in switch), and ignition.

I just cut the original panel out. There are 9 wires. Once you connect the black/yellow the truck will start. I'm trying to figure out were I can get the other modes, acc and ignition?

Black/yellow always has power=battery
Red/white has power in both acc and ignition modes.
I need to get power during Accessory mode and power during Ignition mode

Let me try to be clear. Once I can get power at acc then I can tie in the those fuses. When I get power in ignition I can tie in those fuses. And battery will tie in the other fuses. Battery ties in about 4 fuses, acc ties in 4, and then ignition will tie in its 4 fuses.

Once I figure this I can start to reroute and clean my stock harness up. A lot more hacking then what I thought. Bare wires too. I might of prevented a fire.

Appreciate the help. I've searched the net but couldn't find much.

Thanks
Kenny
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 07:50 PM
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Sounds like you got it right. One constant (battery) and two switched sources (acc/ ignition). The constant is just straight to battery+ and the acc and ignition can be pulled from the back of the keyed switch.

Centech makes good stuff. I put one of their panels on a '62 Falcon, but I did choose to run all new wires. I opted to make a harness rather than use a kit. For me it was simpler to go clean sheet rather than fish through the existing wires.

Edit:
I didn't see part of your post. The acc source should power lights, radio etc., without power to ignition.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 08:03 PM
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From: Cypress
Originally Posted by Jon Richard
Sounds like you got it right. One constant (battery) and two switched sources (acc/ ignition). The constant is just straight to battery+ and the acc and ignition can be pulled from the back of the keyed switch.

Centech makes good stuff. I put one of their panels on a '62 Falcon, but I did choose to run all new wires. I opted to make a harness rather than use a kit. For me it was simpler to go clean sheet rather than fish through the existing wires.

Edit:
I didn't see part of your post. The acc source should power lights, radio etc., without power to ignition.
Thanks John.

I found black/red has power in both cycles ignition and accesory. This is where I'm getting confused. I was hoping the original panel would have 3 cycle, Battery, Accesory, and Ignition but that doesn't seem the case.

So should I pull power from ignition to the Centech box? I'm thinking I should go from Centech box and starting feeding other sources. I'm probably not making sense that's why I'm lost

Thanks again
Kenny
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 08:12 PM
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I only have a diagram for '69 F-100, if your truck is a different year I won't be much help with what you have. This is the diagram I got from Centech for the PDP 1A fuse panel they sold me, I bought their Broncos switch which made life easier as it has threaded terminals.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by kdaug5
Thanks John.

I found black/red has power in both cycles ignition and accesory. This is where I'm getting confused. I was hoping the original panel would have 3 cycle, Battery, Accesory, and Ignition but that doesn't seem the case.

So should I pull power from ignition to the Centech box? I'm thinking I should go from Centech box and starting feeding other sources. I'm probably not making sense that's why I'm lost

Thanks again
Kenny
It might be that the panel doesn't care about ignition as that is taken care of at the switch, but for sure the IGN and ACC even if feed from the same source will be isolated sources as they feed into the panel- so the acc position will only power the 4 it feeds and the ign position will only power the 4 on the RUN circuit.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 08:28 PM
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From: Cypress
Yes I got that too. Sorry for my ignorance here. I will keep searching and try to figure this out.

I'm pretty much thinking that because the original fuse panel is so small that the harness was designed to get power from the light switch and ignition switch. Sound right?
So now I can remove power from those switches and feed them through the new Centech panel.
My accesory cycle should also be found in the ignition switch? So remove from there and run to the Centech and then back out?
The original ignition switch has 6 wires and really only needs 4, battery, acc, ign, run?

Whew not sure. My heads spinning. This is probably easy for everyone but man not me

Thanks again for the help
Kenny
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by kdaug5
Yes I got that too. Sorry for my ignorance here. I will keep searching and try to figure this out.

I'm pretty much thinking that because the original fuse panel is so small that the harness was designed to get power from the light switch and ignition switch. Sound right?
So now I can remove power from those switches and feed them through the new Centech panel.
My accesory cycle should also be found in the ignition switch? So remove from there and run to the Centech and then back out?
The original ignition switch has 6 wires and really only needs 4, battery, acc, ign, run?

Whew not sure. My heads spinning. This is probably easy for everyone but man not me

Thanks again for the help
Kenny
Yeah again it sounds like you got it, just go one circuit at a time as it's easy to get overwhelmed.

I agree with you about the original wiring, that's why I bought Centechs Bronco ignition and headlight switches. It all made more sense and a cleaner job for me that way.

As far as ignition source You don't remove it from the switch snd put it on the panel, you run a wire from the IGN post on the back of the switch to the IGN post on the panel.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 08:51 PM
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The back of the ignition switch should be the source for the 3 main input power posts (battery, run, acc) on the new fuse panel. The new fuse panel will now be the main hub that feeds the headlamp switch and everything else.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 09:00 PM
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From: Cypress
Originally Posted by Jon Richard
The back of the ignition switch should be the source for the 3 main input power posts (battery, run, acc) on the new fuse panel. The new fuse panel will now be the main hub that feeds the headlamp switch and everything else.
Hey John I appreciate your help. I really think I got it. I just gonna run it by you.

So basically the battery goes to the switch. The switch determines acc and ign modes. So the switch feeds them to the panel? Haha confusing.

I will get this. I would also buy those switches from Centech but I want to get this tied up tomorrow

Kenny
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kdaug5
So basically the battery goes to the switch. The switch determines acc and ign modes. So the switch feeds them to the panel? Haha confusing.

Kenny
The back of the switch has a post connected to the battery+, either right to the battery or the solenoid or wherever it goes but yes, there is a hot wire on the BAT position on the switch.

There is an accessory post on the back of the switch and a run post on the back of the switch. Just connect acc on the switch to acc on the panel, and run on the switch to run on the panel.

Just keep the questions coming it's no bother.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 11:58 AM
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From: Cypress
Ok somethings wrong, besides me

Not sure if this is right. My Ignition switch works like this
In OFF only yellow has power
In IGN all wires have power except red/blue
Red/blue gets power only in RUN and all wires have power
In ACC on yellow and black/green get power. The problem is black/green gets power always but OFF

I can't find ACC power.

I'm lost. I would expect the Ignition switch would have power separate during ACC and IGN cycles. Do I have a existing problem or what am I missing?

Thanks again
Kenny
 
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by kdaug5
Ok somethings wrong, besides me

Not sure if this is right. My Ignition switch works like this
In OFF only yellow has power
In IGN all wires have power except red/blue
Red/blue gets power only in RUN and all wires have power
In ACC on yellow and black/green get power. The problem is black/green gets power always but OFF

I can't find ACC power.

I'm lost. I would expect the Ignition switch would have power separate during ACC and IGN cycles. Do I have a existing problem or what am I missing?

Thanks again
Kenny
So yellow is battery +.

When you say IGN are you saying the start position?
The black/ green is a switched source and should work fine for acc connection on the panel, so long as your coil wire is dead when the key is in the acc position.

what year is the truck?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 01:38 PM
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From: Cypress
Originally Posted by Jon Richard
So yellow is battery +.

When you say IGN are you saying the start position?
The black/ green is a switched source and should work fine for acc connection on the panel, so long as your coil wire is dead when the key is in the acc position.

what year is the truck?
Thanks John. I've kinda stepped away from the truck. My truck is a 1968 F100.

I'm working on the ignition switch. I'm trying to figure that out. I'm thinking that I need to pull power from there to the Centech panel.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by kdaug5
Thanks John. I've kinda stepped away from the truck. My truck is a 1968 F100.

I'm working on the ignition switch. I'm trying to figure that out. I'm thinking that I need to pull power from there to the Centech panel.
That's exactly what I've been trying to convey, sorry if I wasn't clear.

3 wires from the ignition switch to the fuse panel and you're in bussiness.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by kdaug5
I'm lost. I would expect the Ignition switch would have power separate during ACC and IGN cycles. Do I have a existing problem or what am I missing?
Kenny
Not necessarily. If you study the panel outputs on the RUN and ACC circuits you'll see that there are functions that should have power at either position.
 
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