CEL turned on this morning heading to work. Truck drove completely normal with no signs of altered performance.

Stopped by Autozone after work and they checked it with a code reader.

Came back with P0442 - "Purge Valve Solenoid"

Part sold with or without bracket ($104.99 or $94.99).

Is this a common part to fail?
How can I be sure it has truly failed?
Is it acceptable to reset CEL and see if it fails again? If so, how do I reset?
Where is part located?

Thanks!

 

A P0442 DTC does not indicate a faulty "Purge Valve Solenoid", it indicates a small leak in the EVAP system. That means that the fault could be anything from a gas cap that didn't (or can't) seal properly, a vent solenoid that doesn't seal, or any other small leak anywhere in the evap portion of the fuel system.

 

100 percent correct...

it could be even a small leak in the 50 plus feet of lines.

try replacing the gas cap first.
to reset computer .. disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes.
as parts stores.. will say "WE" can not clear error codes.. it the law.. but its NOT.

 

Before replacing the gas cap, try removing it and putting it back on.

To reset/clear the CEL you need a code reader that has that function, which I presume you do not have. Alternatively (and a poor one in my opinion) is to disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for 10 mins +.

 

bet you are going to find a nick in the gas cap seal. P0442 is 95% of the time gas cap problems.

 

On this particular truck, pull F36 with the ignition turned off and walk away for 10 minutes. Come back and reinstall the fuse and the computer's memory will have been reset. No need to reprogram the radio or get out any tools.

 

Great info guys. I appreciate the responses.
My pops has a reader that clears CEL. I'll borrow his.

New gas cap and I'll see if that's the issue.

Since there are so many possibilities, is it a process of elimination....starting with the most simple and moving to more complex?
If so, that can get expensive, especially when many of these parts can not be returned.

Example.....if not gas cap, what is the next part to consider replacing?

Thanks

 

the quickest way to find the issue is a "Smoke Test".. there are many feet of hoses and tubing involved, any clamp broken... hose cracked... and then the evap control valves and canister ..

they inject man made smoke into the evap system.. and look for smoke to exit..

Lady across the street just had it done to her Chevy.. replaced cracked canister/control valve for $485.00
.
for this problem.. the smoke test is the cheapest way.. that is why the gas cap is replaced first.. and most common to trigger that code.
the evap system.. just be able to maintain a small level of vacuum.. gas tank, 20 plus feet of hoses and tubing and other parts. reason a very small leak is a big deal.

 

The next thing to replace would be nothing. Chuck's advice immediately above is spot-on. Without a smoke test to identify the source of the leak, one can only guess. The gas cap is a good guess because it's so common, but beyond that, guessing doesn't work well.

Do make sure you use only the correct Motorcraft gas cap, aftermarket ones can be hit or miss.

Finding out if the repair was effective can take a considerable amount of time. The EVAP monitor is tough to get to execute even when following the prescribed drive cycle. I've seen ones that have taken literally months to run. If you have an upcoming emissions test, be aware that an incomplete evap monitor, by itself, is usually not a disqualifying or failure event during testing.

This is not a common failure on your vintage of Super Duty since only the California/OBDII calibrations have the evaporative emissions system. The rest of the country (except the "green" states that required California-certified vehicles) got Super Duties without this (and a few other) OBDII requirement. Check the emissions label on the underside of your hood to see what calibration the vehicle has.

 

as suggested, I replaced the gas cap with a new Gates brand, reset CEL with my ScanGaugeII, and all has been well for the past week!

Thanks for the suggestions on starting with the gas cap. I MUST remember that the KISS method always works best!!

 

Has the EVAP monitor successfully run yet? Until it does, it's a waiting game.

 

Where is it and how would I know if it has run?

 

Check your OBDII readiness monitors. EVAP is one of them.

 

Thanks ProjectSH089.

On my ScanGaugeII what would I look for? The OBDII reader I borrowed did not work so I used my SCII to clear the light.

 

I feel sure you have solved the problem with the gas cap and not further testing is needed. If the gas cap did not solve the problem, the light will not take many drive cycles to turn. on. Just drive it and not worry for now.