So I messed up and posted my build thread in the diesel forum and rather than move everything over I'll post the link and then continue posting in this thread. As of today, still nameless but that should change by end of July.

Original Thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-a-name.html

So far I'm looking at replacing all the stuff that will likely go bad or that needs regular maintenance that I don't have records for (everything...literally everything).

I started with things to improve the longevity of the motor:
-Coolant filter
-AIH delete
-Going to do UVCH mod soon
-Coolant flush and fill with ELC
-New HPOP lines
-New I/C boots
-Got a CPS to put in the glovebox with a 10mm wrench
-SCT X4 for monitoring purposes (got EGT probe as well) (yeah, eventually I'll use it for the tuning aspect, for now I'm content with 800+ miles to the tank)

Was going to install some Warn Premium hubs that I got from RRD but ended up fixing my autolockers and A/C with one plug.. Still not sure why it was unplugged. Going to keep the Warns downstairs until the Auto's go then I'll replace them.

Today's question is suspension. I'm wanting to do the Modded B swap for springs but I want to keep things as cheap as possible without cutting corners but also improve the ride. I don't give a hoot about lift, the wife is already complaining about hopping up in the seat, although she loves it when she gets up there. After looking all around for the components I'm leaning towards just getting a 2.5" lift kit that has everything for an f250 and just call it good. Thoughts? 2.5in Leveling Lift Kit (Springs) for 99-04 Ford 4wd F-250 / F-350 Super Duty | Rough Country Suspension Systems®

After that I want to get all the little things working. Ordered new lock actuators and will lube window tracks when I get into there but my rear latches need replacing. Mainly the lift gate and passenger side barn door. I can't find that damn latch assembly anywhere. Anyone have a link? I don't care about price for it currently, just bugs me that it doesn't work properly.

Following those fixes and getting all fluids, hoses and clamps replaced I plan to outfit it with a full length roof rack (links needed), Front and rear bumpers and winch (best ideas? thinking Warn 15k) and possibly some extra driving lights. Not super impressed with my current lights.

Also thinking about upgrading the gears to either 4.10 or 4.56, both with a locker. Doesn't seem right to go from 3.73->4.10 dollars to bang wise so will most likely do 4.56s and an electric locker. Don't do much crawling but I love trail riding and let's be honest, nobody is pulling that thing out if it gets stuck.

Anything else y'all can think of? I'll be doing much, much more reading but feel free to post ideas in here and links if ya have 'em. Thanks!

 

You mentioned getting 800 miles to the tank being a positive for you...then you mentioned gearing that will seriously turn that down a notch. 3.73 is really a great gear ratio for your 7.3L. If you had a V10, then I would be right on board with switching gears, but you will see a sharp drop in fuel mileage if you go to 4.56 gears in your truck.

The rear hatch handle isn't working or the lock actuator? The barn door is an easy fix with the new cable ends that are sold for the F150/F250 half doors. You just have to drill the centers of the new cable ends out a bit so the cable can move back and forth freely when you pull the handle.

Why are you looking at the modded B's? Ride quality? Ride height with trailer attached? If you are after ride quality, I wouldn't think the lift does anything for you. It just raises your truck, and you are still stuck with whatever ride quality you have now....but I could be wrong with that lift kit you linked.

I strongly recommend a complete overhaul of all the o-rings on top of your engine. Turbo, heads, HPOP, fuel system...all of them. Worth the time and money ten times over. The o-ring material has completely changed since our trucks were built, and the new material they use is worlds better than the old stuff.

Have you replaced your ESOF lines in the fender wells with the new silicone material yet? Get rid of the old rubber lines. The silicone lines last sooooooo much longer and are much more durable.

You should also take a look at your front and rear blower motors. At a minimum, clean them and check to see how much material is left on the brushes inside. Changing/cleaning them will do much for your airflow inside the truck. Ignition switch, multi-function switch, starter solenoids and positive battery wiring harnesses can still be had for relatively little money and are wearing out after 17 years. I have replaced all of mine.

I have done everything you are talking about doing. Digest what I have commented on, and hit me with any questions you might have. Having the rig at 100% is a great feeling, I tell ya!!!

 

Ah yes....forgot to mention...everything you need to know is up in the tech folder at the top of the forum. Pretty much everything has been covered up there over the years.

 

Perfect response and exactly what I was looking for! I am very much a grandiose idea kind of guy and love the reality checks.

Gearing-I do very much enjoy my excellent fuel mileage. If an electric locker up front will help with any offroading I do, which is probably not a lot compared to some but I am known for saying, screw it and driving through stuff most wouldn't. Didn't want the expense but love the capability. After your response, will most likely just add a locker.

Lift/springs: Ride quality and tow capability. Only 2 things I'm concerned with. I linked to the lift for the sole reason that it seems to come with the upgraded springs, shocks and hardware for a lot cheaper than buying individually. I view the 2.5" lift as a detriment but can't beat that price. Low Center of Gravity builds are my favorite (Jeep guy currently). Open to ideas and if anyone has a line on good springs for a decent price that accomplish the ride quality/ tow capability, I'm all ears and pay cash

O-ring overhaul- THIS is what I was looking for in a response! You are my hero today. Any chance there is a link to a how to? I'll be searching the tech forum for it as well (don't require you guys to do ALL my work for me, lol)

Haven't done the silicone lines. Looking it up now and will be doing that for sure, along with the other fixes you mentioned after that.

Thanks so much for your response. It was exactly what I was looking for. Not sure how the reps thing works but give me a minute to figure it out and you've earned some!

 

Also, for the back hatch. The actuator is shot and you can see all the plastic dohickies are busted and the cable just wiggles. Plus it being an Ohio truck, everything is rusted to crap and the passenger side door is seized. Going to pull all the rods and fix them up but the wiring, motors and cables will need replacing.

 

"Mechanics Parts Cabinet" Combo repair kit for common Fuel and Oil repairs 99-03


The back hatch actuator is the same one for the driver's door. Rockauto.com has great selection on parts and prices for all your parts needs. They are not too hard to replace, and you will get to pull your lever assembly and clean and lube it really good.

I have access to a ton of springs down here, but that doesn't do you much good up in KY. I have a set of B codes here at the house I am probably not going to use, since I am moving to 05+ axles soon. There is a member that is making a trip down here from Ohio in the next week or two to pick up a parts Excursion. You might be able to connect with him and get some rust free parts...https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-and-such.html

The yard he is going to is down the road from me. They still have one complete rear hatch there (silver). I got mine for $150 (spare hatch and both barn doors sitting in my garage for that rear end collision that could be in my future again). They also have one more Excursion fuel tank shield (rust free) that is sitting out next to the truck...fuel tank is there with it. It just needs a ride to whomever needs a rust free fuel tank/shield up north. Lots of B code, C code and all the other code springs on F250/F350 trucks out there.

Detroit TrueTrac in the rear (keep your current ring and pinion gears) with an electric locker up front and you are golden for your off road aspirations. Not sure of the cost associated with an electric locker for your Dana 50 up front, but I am sure it is quite high.

 

For springs call Leaf Springs and Suspension Parts by Auto and Truck Springs they are a sponsoring vendor on FTE and ATS Junior is very helpful.

Mike has given you a lot of good information.

 

Ordered all the actuators already. 1Aauto actually had the best prices and it came in a kit of 4, only had to buy 1 extra.

As for the springs. I use to live not far from you when I was stationed at Hood. That would be super useful about now! I'll check with him and see what we can work out. I'm always willing to drive but the Army isn't always willing to let me drive as far as I want lol.

I haven't been able to find the silicone hoses for the ESOF but I did find the stainless steel ones from dieselsite.com. Going to keep looking as $80 is a bit much for my blood for something that is currently working. However, I did compile an entire cart at RRD of Orings.. came up to about $375 for everything. Probably order that this evening. Seems like a good way to get familiar with the truck, too.

Thinking of deleting the EBPV while I've got everything pulled out. Reading up on easiest way to do that while keeping stock turbo. Wife would kill me if I got the one I want.

Thanks again!

 

I linked you to the hoses on Amazon and the o-ring kit from Diesel-o-rings up above.

 

You mention "expedition" but don't give any info on the nature of your intended travels.

Having spent months wandering remote and vast regions in my 7.3 Ex and f250 I'll warn you now about unit bearings and hubs. Install new ones and Carry spares of both. The auto lock hubs break easily but at least the vehicle still moves assuming you are not stuck, the unit bearing on the other hand will park you until replaced.

Locker wise, I run ARB's front and rear. Hard to beat them

Spring wise, If you are going off road then the Ex is sorely lacking suspension travel and will bottom out frequently resulting in broken and bent parts. Increased travel is pretty much required if you plan on expedition travel.
Ride quality can be greatly improved with the correct springs shock package and correctly done towing at max GCVWR is no problem.

3.73 gearing is adequate up to 35" tires with the 7.3

 

Mike-Not sure why that didn't register as a link to me. Clicked it and voila. Thanks again.

Pirate4x4- As for "expedition", I don't have anywhere particular in mind but I like the go anywhere do anything (except crawling) style vehicles. If I had to narrow it down it would be: trails of any sort, deep(ish) mud, maybe small creeks depending on depth. I've had my wrangler and cherokees in stuff that seemed ridiculous but we got through. Not planning on doing that with this one but I want to be able to take the kids to the beach, or the mountains or some remote lake and not have any worries.

I'll go ahead and get some unit bearings (was on the plan anyway), currently have a replacement set of hubs, so good there.

As for suspension, I guess that is my ultimate question. I've spent the better part of 6 hours just reading about it and I've got more questions now than I had before. So here it is: I want to eventually tow a camper trailer (around 9-10k) when my wife decides to go camping with us, or for cross country trips (think Grand Canyon). Otherwise it'll be normal driving and taking my kids camping since they don't require indoor plumbing. We have Uwharrie and Pisgah here and back home is the Red River Gorge. Those are the 3 places we normally go. Just don't want to encounter too many issues. Questions are:
Do I need any lift? If so how much?-Minimal is best, I hate the look of insanely jacked up trucks.
Which springs and shocks?

You guys are a wealth of information and I'm doing my best to find it all on my own but damn, this forum has so much information, it will make ya feel like you're swimming upstream in white water!

Thanks for you input, too. Y'all are definitely helping!

 

Do you need spring and shocks for towing ?

Not if yours are not sagged and the shocks are functioning correctly.

To check your springs measure from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender arch at each wheel.

When new as delivered from ford the measurements were 23" front 24" rear.
Post # 146 is a summary of stock heights https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16534525

While you are measuring each corner inspect your bump stops and slapper bar snubbers. Front bumps and snubbers blown out is common.

 

Looks like my springs are currently good then. That's good news. Bumpstops and snubbers are gone, though.

Shocks most likely need to be replaced but that is certainly cheaper than a whole redo.

 

Pirate, looked up ARBs.. Holy cow that might have to wait! Can't believe the cost of some of these parts. I don't remember paying that much for the ones in my Jeeps but they were D44s, maybe that had something to do with it. Oh well.

 

Told ya....