Modded Suspensions Call - Request your measurents
#46
I've been searching for leveling kits but they're all showing for the trucks and not specifically for the Excursion.
I'd appreciate opinions on if either of these (or others you're willing to suggest) to get me the 2" in the front. Thanks!
2 Leveling System - 2005-15 Ford F250/F350 4WD
2in Leveling Coil Spacers Lift Kit for 05-15 Ford 4wd F-250 / F-350 Super Duty [514] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®
I'd appreciate opinions on if either of these (or others you're willing to suggest) to get me the 2" in the front. Thanks!
2 Leveling System - 2005-15 Ford F250/F350 4WD
2in Leveling Coil Spacers Lift Kit for 05-15 Ford 4wd F-250 / F-350 Super Duty [514] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®
GVOD and air springs ! I'm digging your Ex more and more each day....
Not sure how high you want the front, but here is something simple I purchased. It should gain you a good inch, and it's a simple install. A lot of people claim the slight bit of caster it'll add is a benefit. Personally, I like a very slight rake (lightly higher in the rear), but I suppose with the air springs you can adjust that.
#47
GVOD and air springs ! I'm digging your Ex more and more each day....
Not sure how high you want the front, but here is something simple I purchased. It should gain you a good inch, and it's a simple install. A lot of people claim the slight bit of caster it'll add is a benefit. Personally, I like a very slight rake (lightly higher in the rear), but I suppose with the air springs you can adjust that.
Robot Check
Not sure how high you want the front, but here is something simple I purchased. It should gain you a good inch, and it's a simple install. A lot of people claim the slight bit of caster it'll add is a benefit. Personally, I like a very slight rake (lightly higher in the rear), but I suppose with the air springs you can adjust that.
Robot Check
Thanks!
I actually took the Ex to the shop this afternoon. A good friend of mine is the owner/operator. He's going to do some research for options and get me in sometime next week. I'm emailing him this info now. Can't wait see what he comes up with!
#48
#49
I currently have the stock wheels with LT265/75R16 tires.
I just measured mid hub to lip of fender and got 23" in front and 26" in rear. I'm not sure what was added to the rear end or how to find out. I'd like to level the truck and be able to upgrade the wheels to 18" but I have no clue what I need to do...going to do some reading in the tech folder.
I just measured mid hub to lip of fender and got 23" in front and 26" in rear. I'm not sure what was added to the rear end or how to find out. I'd like to level the truck and be able to upgrade the wheels to 18" but I have no clue what I need to do...going to do some reading in the tech folder.
Update: I deflated the rear air bags and got 23" in front and 24" in rear.
On a side note, my ATS X/C's were delivered this afternoon. They should be installed on Monday!
#52
Chad, when I put X Codes up front, I gained almost 3 inches. Same with the B Codes in the back. I did basically the same Mod's you're doing, but I have a new Helwig instead of airbags.
My measurements after Mods are as follows...
Front: 40.5" from the ground and 24.5” front hub center to cladding
Rear: 42" from the ground and 26” from rear hub center to cladding
AT
My measurements after Mods are as follows...
Front: 40.5" from the ground and 24.5” front hub center to cladding
Rear: 42" from the ground and 26” from rear hub center to cladding
AT
#54
#55
Chad, when I put X Codes up front, I gained almost 3 inches. Same with the B Codes in the back. I did basically the same Mod's you're doing, but I have a new Helwig instead of airbags.
My measurements after Mods are as follows...
Front: 40.5" from the ground and 24.5” front hub center to cladding
Rear: 42" from the ground and 26” from rear hub center to cladding
AT
My measurements after Mods are as follows...
Front: 40.5" from the ground and 24.5” front hub center to cladding
Rear: 42" from the ground and 26” from rear hub center to cladding
AT
I see. Thanks Tom!
#56
FIRESTONE says 5 psi minimum. I'm unsure of other manufacturers.
The reason is twofold. If the air bag is completely deflated and you bottom out the suspension inadvertently two things could happen.
1) since the bag has no air pressure it can bottom out the bag to itself causing damage to itself
2) on many applications the bag is mounted between the tire and frame.
As the bag compresses it gets to be a larger diameter and potentially could rub on the tire (rare cases) but more commonly against the frame or hardware protruding outboard of the frame.
In 18 years of installing these, I have warranted two bags total.
We all know that under normal unloaded conditions bottoming out the suspension on a true 3/4-1 ton is very difficult and probably will never happen. I tell my customers that use the double convoluted below type bags to not worry about keeping minimum air pressure unless there is a chance they may add a large load in the bed and possibly forget to add air at that time. With a large load, and no air, hitting a big bump, railroad tracks etc, bottoming the bag is very likely.
FWIW in 05 the super duties changed how the brake/electrical lines where attached. The bag hit against a bolt protruding thru the outside of the frame which clamped the lines inside the frame rail. I missed noticing it on install. It rubbed thru instantly with camper loaded. Shortly there after the installation sheets noted to cut off the excess threads past the face of the nut.
The coil type or sport rite light duty bags are different, they need the minimum at all times.
My experience on airbags.
The reason is twofold. If the air bag is completely deflated and you bottom out the suspension inadvertently two things could happen.
1) since the bag has no air pressure it can bottom out the bag to itself causing damage to itself
2) on many applications the bag is mounted between the tire and frame.
As the bag compresses it gets to be a larger diameter and potentially could rub on the tire (rare cases) but more commonly against the frame or hardware protruding outboard of the frame.
In 18 years of installing these, I have warranted two bags total.
We all know that under normal unloaded conditions bottoming out the suspension on a true 3/4-1 ton is very difficult and probably will never happen. I tell my customers that use the double convoluted below type bags to not worry about keeping minimum air pressure unless there is a chance they may add a large load in the bed and possibly forget to add air at that time. With a large load, and no air, hitting a big bump, railroad tracks etc, bottoming the bag is very likely.
FWIW in 05 the super duties changed how the brake/electrical lines where attached. The bag hit against a bolt protruding thru the outside of the frame which clamped the lines inside the frame rail. I missed noticing it on install. It rubbed thru instantly with camper loaded. Shortly there after the installation sheets noted to cut off the excess threads past the face of the nut.
The coil type or sport rite light duty bags are different, they need the minimum at all times.
My experience on airbags.
#57
Thanks Rodder, good info there! Much better than the little bit I had to offer.
Have you ever installed a set of bags with an attached air tank for each bag to allow for better/smoother ride while still retaining the extra load capacity? The idea being that as the bags compress on bumps the pressure spikes and the ride can get harsh, the tanks gave more room for absorbing these bounce "spikes". I saw a write up and pictorial on this setup years ago in a magazine, thought it was pretty nifty.
Have you ever installed a set of bags with an attached air tank for each bag to allow for better/smoother ride while still retaining the extra load capacity? The idea being that as the bags compress on bumps the pressure spikes and the ride can get harsh, the tanks gave more room for absorbing these bounce "spikes". I saw a write up and pictorial on this setup years ago in a magazine, thought it was pretty nifty.
#58
Thanks Rodder, good info there! Much better than the little bit I had to offer.
Have you ever installed a set of bags with an attached air tank for each bag to allow for better/smoother ride while still retaining the extra load capacity? The idea being that as the bags compress on bumps the pressure spikes and the ride can get harsh, the tanks gave more room for absorbing these bounce "spikes". I saw a write up and pictorial on this setup years ago in a magazine, thought it was pretty nifty.
Have you ever installed a set of bags with an attached air tank for each bag to allow for better/smoother ride while still retaining the extra load capacity? The idea being that as the bags compress on bumps the pressure spikes and the ride can get harsh, the tanks gave more room for absorbing these bounce "spikes". I saw a write up and pictorial on this setup years ago in a magazine, thought it was pretty nifty.
I do many with compressors / gauges etc though. With the gauges you can see the needles spike over every bump.
My wife wants to airbag our '56 Chevy wagon. I think it looks cool and all but the two cars I've driven "on bags" sucked for ride comfort because of the small volume they hold.
#59
#60
25.5'' front; 27'' rear
Stock wheels, 315/75 size BFG K02 tires. Slight rub at full turn on the rear portion of the front leaf springs.
Front; $40 CL pair of used V's (80K miles), 2'' of level leaf packs.
Rear: $20 CL pair of used C's (off F350 w/60K miles); mod'd with 3 leaves from the original X rears plus the slapper leaf; original Ex blocks.
Good not to take oneself too seriously .
Stock wheels, 315/75 size BFG K02 tires. Slight rub at full turn on the rear portion of the front leaf springs.
Front; $40 CL pair of used V's (80K miles), 2'' of level leaf packs.
Rear: $20 CL pair of used C's (off F350 w/60K miles); mod'd with 3 leaves from the original X rears plus the slapper leaf; original Ex blocks.
Good not to take oneself too seriously .
Last edited by Stewart_H; 09-01-2016 at 12:15 PM.