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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 08:21 PM
  #31  
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I don't use a fuel additive mainly because the oil company chemist I talked with didn't convince me it was needed. To many "might" "could" and "maybes" in his explainations. I have a case of it sitting in the shop that I was given and I still dont use it. Of course if you feel different then by all means, add some.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 08:31 PM
  #32  
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Hmm, ran it for years in my Cummins and saw smoother operation through the powerband but especially at idle. Maybe it was placebo but in my mind it worked. Going to try the Opti Lube summer blend and see if anything changes. I'll give what I've got a few more tanks as well so I have a baseline. Gotta wait a whole week for my coolant bypass and other parts but in the meantime I'm going to build an oil bypass as well. Filtration is king.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 09:33 PM
  #33  
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Don't need to mod the new actuators. They will be fine installing them as is. You will only need about 6 ft of that silicone tubing...3 ft on each side tops...maybe a little less.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2017 | 07:26 AM
  #34  
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Congats on the new addition. (the kid and the truck).
 
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Old Jul 13, 2017 | 04:16 PM
  #35  
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Good to know Mike, thanks yet again!

Matt, glad you made it down there safe, was good to hear from ya. Hope you enjoy your visit and thank you as well.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 04:23 PM
  #36  
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So finally got all my parts in and hooked up the SCT to see what the gauges would say. Everything was ok but I'm seeing ridiculously high Exhaust Back Pressure numbers.. like 300+. Guessing this means that I need a new sensor but after all my reading, everyone says my boost would be bad (highest was 15ish) and fuel mileage would suffer (18-20 is what I'm getting) thoughts?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 04:49 PM
  #37  
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First thing to do with the EBP sensor is take the tube off the front of the motor and clean it out. It's probably plugged solid with soot. The sensor is hanging off a bracket on the HPOP. There is a steel line that runs from it down to the passenger side header.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 04:51 PM
  #38  
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Tracking that and will do as soon as I get home. Was more curious if that was the actual issue since everything else is working fine. Thanks for your response and I'll update the outcome tonight.

Side note: I need a damn garage! working in this hot sun and humidity sucks. Set a cool wrench down and 2 minutes later you better have gloves to pick that sucker up.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 04:52 PM
  #39  
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I've got a complete set, front and rear of perfect rust free springs, ubolts etc someone can have if they come and get them. Between Ocala and Orlando. 4X4. Also a set of good stock shocks.

Additionally front headlights, front bumper, rear bumper, track bar.

No I wont ship
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 05:17 PM
  #40  
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Oldguyfl- Jeeze I'm gonna have to head your way too!
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 05:26 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by BBFarms
Oldguyfl- Jeeze I'm gonna have to head your way too!
Well come on then....
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 07:55 PM
  #42  
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What is all this?


What the crap is this?



And what is this clear box with clear tubing? It says don't overfill but the tubing is connected to the air filter
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 08:19 PM
  #43  
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That sensor is the intake air temp sensor that is suppose to be plugged into the air box.

Speaking of air box.... first thing first....get rid of that ricer air filter.

Best filteration available is the Ford-Donaldson AIS setup.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 08:27 PM
  #44  
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So I can pull all that plastic tubing crap too? Cause that mess looks terrible.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 08:47 PM
  #45  
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W
Originally Posted by BBFarms
So I can pull all that plastic tubing crap too? Cause that mess looks terrible.
It is sitting where the factoyair box goes, what ever it is it is not stock.
 
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