Did a check this evening about the rpm on the interstate.
70mph: 4th gear = 2100rpm, 3rd gear = 2900rpm
No wonder I feel like it's running hard.
And yes the switch out of 4th using the ole OD OFF button makes it jump at that speed. The downshift at 70mph is a bit harsh.

So it's no wonder I'm shy about dropping down a gear.
But from what I'm hearing, the only thing 2900 rpm will hurt is my fuel mileage.

 

Sorry to ask so many questions....

I got to thinking about the boost leak checker shown in the video.
This method will pressurize the crankcase through the CCV.
Is that ok?

This would be a much easier place to install the checker since I have the 6637 filter and would like to go this route as long as there's not an issue with pressure in the CCV.

Thanks!

 

You need to bypass the CCV and connect the "plug or adapter" to the turbo inlet for the best results.

 

Safety Note: Remember to make sure you have enough hose on your air chuck device so that you can stand back away and out the line of fire from the BLD boost leak detector. At 10 plus psi is this thing does decide to blow off it can seriously injure and or kill a guy. I doubled up some bailing wire and criss crossed it up and around the BLD to keep it in place and contain it should it blow off. There should be a way to attach a Whip Check to these things, again to hold and or contain them if they do blow off.
Also, it can be a bit unnerving to watch these 7.3's hit 3000 rpm when towing, but these engines were designed to work/run at 3000 to redline and do it all day. These 7.3's really are an amazing engine. I really feel that you can make your 38r work for you. Again, I can't stress enough about repairing any leaks. This in and of itself will make you believe that the 38r is the worst thing you ever did, when it fact it's just a leak/leaks. I've talked to quit a few guys that thought there 38r was garbage because of high egt's, smoke, laggy etc etc. The 38r really is a good, stout Turbo.
Also I know you asked me in another post about the 38r compressor wheels I've ran. I ran the 38r with stock wheel and 238/80's and supporting mods for 13 yrs or so. I then tried the DS ww2 11 blade wheel, and it was pretty bad for anything but top end. I then swapped it out to the DS ww2 6x6 and this helped with spool up, ran cleaner and actually took the edge off the noise factor that these 38r turbos are know for. I recently had a chance to ride in my friends truck (TheBrad) on the forums. Brad removed a new 38r that still had the stock wheel in it, and installed a T4 setup w 364.5sxe turbo. We went back to back from his truck to mine and ran them both up a steep short grade out here close to my house. Granted, we weren't towing a trailer, and my build is quite a bit different than his as well. But we did our best to lug the engine down low, 65-75 mph cruising and a couple of quick short burst runs in a hot tune as well. From this I was able to get a pretty good idea of how these sxe turbos perform. It outperformed my 38r on every level. Spools faster, lower egt's, no smoke, and you could barely hear it spooling even when pushed hard. Very impressive..
You also mentioned Charlie at KC Turbos. I too have had several conversations with him in anticipation of his 369r turbo. I hold him in very high regard when it comes to Turbos. Charlie has reverse engineered the sxe line of turbos w a ball bearing journal as well. These bolt on the 99-03 factory location, uppipes Y pipe's etc on our rigs. He has designed I believe 3 of them 364.5/366/369. Should be a game changer for us 7.3 guys. Anyhow, I hope I answered all of your questions.

 

Deleted this initial post and reposted to get my new signature to show.
Then I see I could have added it in the "advanced mode". Oops.
Can't figure out how to delete the post so I'll just leave this here.....

 

OK folks a quick update. Well I'll try to be quick, but I'm not known for being short of words.

I purchased a Riffraff Diesel Billet wheel for the stock turbo, plenum inserts, and lower boots (already had the uppers)
Also ordered an Alpha Dog Bellowed Up pipe kit from Amazon. It fit perfectly. Later did find some others cheaper on eBay but oh well. (ordered a $67 kit for my dad's truck today, I'll let you know how it fits)
Put those items on about a week ago and just a little local driving, no towing yet.

Survey says: This is the most responsive the truck has ever been since I've owned it.
The stock with billet wheel seems to have much better tip in feel and overall driveability.
With the 38R I had to keep pushing the throttle further and further as the speed increased when trying to accelerate normally (I know this sounds silly but trust me it was weird), now with normal throttle it accelerates as I believe it should.
So far I am VERY happy with the choice.
The 38R just seemed to be a top breathing animal. Not really suited for what I was doing. Not sure why it is so highly praised in all the forums. And it's also obnoxiously loud, I mean I like the whistle, but the 38R is a bit overbearing.
I know the up pipes had a small leak before, but they didn't when I first installed the 38R so I don't really think that's a true factor in the change in responsiveness of the truck.

Now on to the other stuff.
I did make a boost checker and tried it before taking off the 38R and again after installing the stock turbo.
This did not work out so well.
I'm not sure if the truck was supposed to be warm when checking but it was blowing back through the CCV.
I had the checker installed into the turbo hose (blocked off wastegate hose hole).
The compressor only had around 30psi in the tank so the fill wasn't real quick.
It would bleed off quickly through the CCV. I did plug the CCV with my thumb and hold around 10psi, no other leaks noticed.
So now I'm wondering if my precious 90K 7.3L has a burnt piston ring or such?

I used the Turbo Master wastegate controller from the 38R for the new setup.
Max boost in 140HP has been 29psi even after cranking a few turns into the controller.
Comparing MAP pressure to EBP readings on the Insight it seems to hit 45 EBP with around 39 MAP maybe. Can't remember exactly but it was around 6psi difference. Is that ok for the thrust bearing? Of course this is including atmospheric on both readings.
I'd read where other members with stock injectors were seeing 33psi or more (on boost gauge) with this wheel. Not that I'm crying over a few psi, just wondering if I have something amiss.....
I was also thinking the wastegate controller may be best set by the EBP since that's what actually opens it. I'd think EBP or ratio between the 2 is what we're really trying to control here. What's your thoughts on this?
Or should I just remove the Turbo Master and go back to a good, normal controller? With or without the hose?

Thanks for all the help folks!

 

that plus the fact the torque convertor will unlock as well, which sends RPM ballistic before it locks back up. When i see a good hill i try to get some speed up and when the rpm starts to get around 1600 or so i kick it out of OD and mash the fuel. That way its able to keep speed at around 55 and rom at 22-2500 RPM with boost at 15 or so.

 

Is there a maximum pressure that the MAP sensor can safely deal with? Or does it need a physical boost fooler to protect it?

 

I'm not sure about that one.
I'd see 32 psi on my mechanical boost gauge with the 38R without any issues to the MAP sensor.
I'd think at some point it wouldn't be good for the sensor being over it's design limits but again haven't seen any issues at 32psi.


My chip prevents it from defueling because of boost so I've never installed a boost fooler.


The data stream for "boost" will only show 24-25psi due to it's limitations.
The Edge Insight will show both boost and MAP readings. I was reading MAP and EBP for a comparison since they both included atmospheric.
Now, I know the limitations of the "boost" reading, but am not sure about the MAP. I'm assuming it's using the same sensor and just factoring out the atmospheric of around 14psi. Using that logic the max MAP reading would be 39psi which pretty well matches what I had.
So maybe there was actually less of a difference in boost vs backpressure than I thought.
Adding 14psi to my mechanical boost of 29 gives 43psi vs the 45psi I was seeing on backpressure.


Anyone else care to chime in?