Which billet wheel for stock turbo
#1
Which billet wheel for stock turbo
Sorry if this has been gone over before but all the searching I did only found old threads.
I've just re-registered so it won't let me add a signature yet. Here's what I'm running.
2001 90k mile automatic with PHP tunes, 38r turbo, 4" exhaust, deleted EBPV, 6637 air filter, STOCK injectors.
I pull a 24' enclosed trailer and am having trouble with EGTs at cruise speed. From discussions with various companies it sounds like the 38R with the stock injectors is what's causing my issue.
So my question is about billet wheels in a STOCK turbo on this truck. I'll be switching back and using a billet wheel.
Dieselsite has their originally designed WW2.
RiffRaff has one with good reviews for far less $$. From what I read it is a different design than WW2.
KC Turbos also has one for slightly less than the WW2. Maybe a similar design?
Anyone have a comment about what might best suit my needs?
I'm sure any of these would make me happy.
Thanks, Jason
I've just re-registered so it won't let me add a signature yet. Here's what I'm running.
2001 90k mile automatic with PHP tunes, 38r turbo, 4" exhaust, deleted EBPV, 6637 air filter, STOCK injectors.
I pull a 24' enclosed trailer and am having trouble with EGTs at cruise speed. From discussions with various companies it sounds like the 38R with the stock injectors is what's causing my issue.
So my question is about billet wheels in a STOCK turbo on this truck. I'll be switching back and using a billet wheel.
Dieselsite has their originally designed WW2.
RiffRaff has one with good reviews for far less $$. From what I read it is a different design than WW2.
KC Turbos also has one for slightly less than the WW2. Maybe a similar design?
Anyone have a comment about what might best suit my needs?
I'm sure any of these would make me happy.
Thanks, Jason
#2
I have the Riffraff 4/4 billet in my truck and very much like it, does well unloaded and loaded. Eventually I do plan on going to the 38r, but so far this setup has treated me well towing the other trucks in my fleet around.
I was lead to believe the Riffraff wheel is the WW2 but without near as much whistle - just what I wanted (plus it does pretty well on boost numbers as well).
While the trailers I've used are 16', I believe the Riffraff wheel will do well for you. If I knew how to tag Sous I would, as he also runs Riffraff's wheel.
I was lead to believe the Riffraff wheel is the WW2 but without near as much whistle - just what I wanted (plus it does pretty well on boost numbers as well).
While the trailers I've used are 16', I believe the Riffraff wheel will do well for you. If I knew how to tag Sous I would, as he also runs Riffraff's wheel.
#4
Thanks Charlie,
The 38R doesn't perform like all the posts I've read. I've had it around 7 years but until recently we only had a 1 hour tow to the track. Now we're going 3 hours on the interstate. What I'm seeing was described by Charlie at KC Turbos exactly. The turbo just Isn't happy until it's over 2200rpm towing. It spools super fast and carries good boost but in the "normal" tow rpm of around 1800-2200 the EGTs just like to creep up on me. I've talked to a few different reputable diesel companies which told me the same thing, PHP being one of them. I've been told repeatedly that I'll be happier towing with the stock injectors using a stock turbo and billet wheel. Charlie does have a new 63mm turbo coming out that sounds perfect but the wife just broke her leg a few days ago so with hospital bills I shouldn't be spending extra cash on aftermarket Turbos.
From what I understand the WW2 is a 5x5 design where RiffRaff's is 4x4. So they are different but I'm not sure how that impacts towing etc
Z31,
I've not specifically checked for a boost leak but don't believe this is what's going on. Especially since KC perfectly described what I'm seeing.
My boost numbers are good yada yada. I carry 5psi empty at 70mph, can do 32 under hard acceleration, and was maintaining 20 on some long hills towing in 100hp performance setting and keeping some decent rpm.
I could always fab something up to check it but probably won't unless I have issues after the billet wheel and stock turbo swap.
Bigger injectors is a major cost that I'm not ready to do at this time.
Thanks again for the input.
The 38R doesn't perform like all the posts I've read. I've had it around 7 years but until recently we only had a 1 hour tow to the track. Now we're going 3 hours on the interstate. What I'm seeing was described by Charlie at KC Turbos exactly. The turbo just Isn't happy until it's over 2200rpm towing. It spools super fast and carries good boost but in the "normal" tow rpm of around 1800-2200 the EGTs just like to creep up on me. I've talked to a few different reputable diesel companies which told me the same thing, PHP being one of them. I've been told repeatedly that I'll be happier towing with the stock injectors using a stock turbo and billet wheel. Charlie does have a new 63mm turbo coming out that sounds perfect but the wife just broke her leg a few days ago so with hospital bills I shouldn't be spending extra cash on aftermarket Turbos.
From what I understand the WW2 is a 5x5 design where RiffRaff's is 4x4. So they are different but I'm not sure how that impacts towing etc
Z31,
I've not specifically checked for a boost leak but don't believe this is what's going on. Especially since KC perfectly described what I'm seeing.
My boost numbers are good yada yada. I carry 5psi empty at 70mph, can do 32 under hard acceleration, and was maintaining 20 on some long hills towing in 100hp performance setting and keeping some decent rpm.
I could always fab something up to check it but probably won't unless I have issues after the billet wheel and stock turbo swap.
Bigger injectors is a major cost that I'm not ready to do at this time.
Thanks again for the input.
#5
I have a RiffRaff 4/4 wheel and think it is a great option. I would choose the SPX or KC wheel well before the WW2, but that is just me.
The 4/4 holds 27 PSI all day long climbing a grade with a 5th wheel in tow. I can peak just above 30 PSI, but only did that during testing of the new parts installed.
Stock injectors, rebuilt turbo with 360 bearing and high flow outlet.
The 4/4 holds 27 PSI all day long climbing a grade with a 5th wheel in tow. I can peak just above 30 PSI, but only did that during testing of the new parts installed.
Stock injectors, rebuilt turbo with 360 bearing and high flow outlet.
#6
#7
I have Gear Head tuning with a Hydra.
When ascending a grade and towing heavy, I keep the RPM around 2500-2800. The 7.3 needs to be in the higher RPM's in order to get the turbo in the most efficient range of power.
I have plans to get up to a KC38R or KC366, but not until I step up to 160/80 injectors too. This is not because I want more power, I just want easier power and to make it easier for the truck to get the same amount of work done.
When ascending a grade and towing heavy, I keep the RPM around 2500-2800. The 7.3 needs to be in the higher RPM's in order to get the turbo in the most efficient range of power.
I have plans to get up to a KC38R or KC366, but not until I step up to 160/80 injectors too. This is not because I want more power, I just want easier power and to make it easier for the truck to get the same amount of work done.
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#8
Hmmm. Well I guess if I ran mine up at that rpm range it would be ok on EGTs with the 38R.
I'm just not comfortable running up that high out of overdrive at 70mph on the interstate. At least not for very long. Maybe I'm looking at this all wrong? It seems like it's screaming and the fuel mileage stinks lol.
I'm just not comfortable running up that high out of overdrive at 70mph on the interstate. At least not for very long. Maybe I'm looking at this all wrong? It seems like it's screaming and the fuel mileage stinks lol.
#9
As mentioned above, keep the RPMs up to keep the EGTs down. The extra airflow cools the engine. The other classic cause for high EGTs is leaky uppipes. If still OE on the uppies I'd think bellowed uppies are a good investment. I'd at least check them before investing in a new wheel for the turbo. 38R should be plenty of turbo for stock sticks.
Also what tune are you running? A low HP tow tune should keep EGTs down.
Also what tune are you running? A low HP tow tune should keep EGTs down.
#10
#11
Thanks Charlie,
The 38R doesn't perform like all the posts I've read. I've had it around 7 years but until recently we only had a 1 hour tow to the track. Now we're going 3 hours on the interstate. What I'm seeing was described by Charlie at KC Turbos exactly. The turbo just Isn't happy until it's over 2200rpm towing. It spools super fast and carries good boost but in the "normal" tow rpm of around 1800-2200 the EGTs just like to creep up on me.
The 38R doesn't perform like all the posts I've read. I've had it around 7 years but until recently we only had a 1 hour tow to the track. Now we're going 3 hours on the interstate. What I'm seeing was described by Charlie at KC Turbos exactly. The turbo just Isn't happy until it's over 2200rpm towing. It spools super fast and carries good boost but in the "normal" tow rpm of around 1800-2200 the EGTs just like to creep up on me.
#12
As mentioned above, keep the RPMs up to keep the EGTs down. The extra airflow cools the engine. The other classic cause for high EGTs is leaky uppipes. If still OE on the uppies I'd think bellowed uppies are a good investment. I'd at least check them before investing in a new wheel for the turbo. 38R should be plenty of turbo for stock sticks.
Also what tune are you running? A low HP tow tune should keep EGTs down.
Also what tune are you running? A low HP tow tune should keep EGTs down.
I'm now running a Hydra with PHP tunes.
I started off in the higher HP "light tow" and progressed down through the tow tunes but still had some uncomfortable EGTs.
It actually was easier to maintain once I switched over to the 100HP performance tune. I also started running a little faster later which also helped.
My EGT struggle area seems to be 1700-2200rpm or so.
I have checked the uppipes. No real leaks there. Just a very small amount of soot on one of them. I've got a photo if I can figure out how to post it from my phone. I put doughnut gaskets in when installing the 38R. The uppipes are wrapped as well.
LH uppipe
The experts I've been talking to say the towing EGT concern is not an uncommon phenomenon with stock sticks and the 38R.
Anyone interested in a used 38R? lol. It's too soon for that.
Planning on calling RiffRaff today.
Again thanks for all the input.
#13
#14