What is the best wheel to put in a stock turbo as far as boost goes?

I read that the wicked wheel actually moves less air than stock wheel but eliminates surge.

 

Yup that is correct. Current best available for stockish setups is 4/4 wheel from Riff Raff.

 

Doesnt the wicked wheel 2 increase airflow? The billet aluminum one that dieselsite made?

 

Boost is nothing more then a measurement of restriction. More boost doesn't mean more power.

 

 

Unless he's blowing black smoke and the new wheel clears that up with the additional boost correct or no?

 

Correct and he spends money on something to cover the real problem up

 

Really? What DOES it mean then?

 

That is not giving us any information to the contrary of our friend's (JOHN2001) statement. If anybody has information to the contrary, this would be a good place for a group share.

 

So if the OP wants more power he should be looking for cfm instead of how much boost a wheel adds? I know that you can make more power at a lower boost with a larger wheel right?

 

As you cram more air in, the pressure is going to increase. Unless all the air is blowing out somewhere. But at the same time, as you increase pressure you increase heat. Hot air is not as dense as cold air.

 

This is a supposed to be compressor map comparing the GTP38 (Red line) and GTP38R (Blue line) I found it on another thread on this site. Can someone explain to me how this is read?

I am going to school to get my bachelor's in Mechanical Engineering and would love to work on diesel engines or turbines one day. One reason I've been very active on this site lately. Also I would love to learn the basics and read things like this add if it were a children's book

So back on topic. (Completely disregard the red line for this)



To me I see that the GTP38r makes max boost at pressure rating 4 and pushes 53 lbs/min of air. But I also notice that at 2.3-3.1 it pushes about 73 lbs/min.

Would this be the range of the turbochargers efficiency? If im reading this correctly that would relate to my post saying you can make more power at a lower psi? If I'm reading this wrong let me know.

I don't understand the left steep line and the right curved line. And would love to learn.

 

I think the P2c/P1c ratio is in reference to inlet and outlet pressures of the turbo compressor. I don't think I've ever seen a graph quite like that but what I think is going on is the bow on the right side is the turbo spooling up and the drop off on the left is when the drive pressure stops and the turbo starts to drop off.

 

I was asking for the same reason anybody else does. I would like more power. No its not covering up any issues. The truck runs great. I just wanted to know what is a good wheel to give me more boost. I have a banks big head waste gate to go in when I change the wheel. And i plan on picking up a new set of up pipes too. I see a little soot around them.
I just want to order a part here and there and pile them up until I get time to install everything

 

I've heard the WW2 is great. I don't recommend the original WW because it actually cuts down on air flow to cure the surge problem.

Most of what I'm going to write here is referring to stock sticks and turbo.

You cannot add power just by adding air (unless your truck is smokey and with stock sticks and injectors it shouldn't be). More boost simply means more restrictions or trying to shove more air into the system then it can handle. The air/boost the gets "stuck" between the turbo and the cylinders when the head cannot handle the amount of air gets chopped by the turbo hence creating heat and added stress on parts not to mention that your turbo is out of its MAP. IIRC the stock turbo is good for around 850ish cfm but don't hold me to that I didn't do the math myself.

I made 32 psi with my SD with the setup in my signature and egts were great until I hit 27+ psi then all the other limiting factors came into play. I recommend fixing all the other things and making sure your truck is 100% before adding power. Don't use over an 80ish hp setting on your tuner until your injection system has been upgraded, it cannot handle the demands. You should find that a 60-80 hp tune should be "quicker" than a 120-140 on stock fuel and air.

I'll throw back pressure in as a curve ball too without touching on it, that's another big factor that comes into play.

I'm sure this will raise more questions than answers but I'm limited on time and there are people who are a lot smarter than me here I'm just a dumb redneck.

I agree Rich this is the place for a group share.