My truck (02 7.3L cc) started making a grilled ding type of vibration when I would let if the throttle. I felt the axle going into the rear differential was a bit loose, so I took the cover plate off. The pictures below show where the pinion I think is hitting, sort of like the bearing is allowing front to r Rear differential scaring from movement.
ear movement.
How difficult is a rebuild, and is there anything I should be careful of?

 

A differential rebuild is beyond my ability, but so are a lot of things.

 

Is it me, or does it look kind of sludgy in there? How much oil cam out?

 

Regearing is not something you just do. You are setting them up to thousands of an inch, shims etc. Plan on new bearings, seals and very possibly gears. Gears will depend on how much damage if any occurred. If you have an open diff, now would be the time to consider a locker or posi trac. Use some brake cleaner on that diff to, it needs a good cleaning.

 

I cleaned it and put synthetic back in and am running it until I figure out what to do. Any idea what the numbers on the tag mean?

 

The first pic is the oil weight and type the second is the diff info yours has a limited slip diff with 3.73 gears.

 

Ok, so my plate reads "3L73" and the data plate on rear post says c1 which means 3.73 limited slip differential. I could probably buy a used one, but if it's already limited slip, no need to get truth across or other limited slip right? Some expert opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Dave

 

OK, so I don't need to upgrade while doing the repair, just repair the diff?

 

Rebuilding a diff is not my cup of tea I would just buy a used or take it to someone that knows how to rebuild.

 

Mine looked exactly like that, back in March. Ended up putting fluid in and driving her until mid July. Dropped ur off at Unitradiff rebuilder) and had ur rebuild with new everything, hub to hub with 4.10 gears and damn, best 1250.00 I ever spent. She tows So MUCH easier/nicer now. I actually can tow and gain speed in 6th gear

 

Did you look at your pinion nut, does it look loose or is it leaking? My guess the preload has come off the bearing and crush sleeve they will eventually chew each other up. If the pinion continues to move the teeth will break off and can cause substantial damage to the gears and possibly the LS. I wouldn't recommend driving any more than necessary or pull drive shaft and drive to shop in 4wd essentially FWD.

 

It isn't leaking, and I see no loose nuts.

 

How many responders here have actually looked in their Sterling 10.5?

Most all of them appear to have had pinion to carrier contact (like the first picture) and they have not. All three of mine (1999, 2000, and 2002) have those exact same marks as well as just about every 10.5 I've taken apart in the professional automotive technician world from 1999-2010. I promise you that if there was really contact, there would be more than just a little bit of powder on the magnet and there would be absolute bearing destruction in a very short amount of time with all the metal SHAVINGS that would be floating around.

 

I agree !!!

I've had 3 apart and they all had the same hatch. I was alarmed at first but was quickly corrected by a tech that all was well.

I would however clean the diff and make sure you use the correct gear lube and modifier.

Denny

 

BTW, the feathering feeling you get just off throttle is inherent to my truck of 15 years.

I have found that my rear u joint only lasts 2 years regardless if it's a timken etc...

When I get the feather, I drop my shaft and inspect and replace the joint and all is well again for a few more birthdays.

My pinion angle is correct but it's just the nature of the beast.

Denny