Looking for Battery Experience/Recommendations
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
- Best I can tell Optima moved production to Mexico starting in early 2009 (and is owned by Johnson Controls).
- The Odyssey Extreme battery has more CCA and reserve capacity that the Odyssey Performance battery. The performance line is more budget-conscious for those that don't need all the CCA (starting a big engine) or reserve capacity (playing your booming stereo with your off-road lights on while the engine is off).
- Northstar also makes the X2 brand sold by Batteries+Bulbs (batteriesplus.com). (as F250_ mentioned in post #9)
- Both the Northstar and Odyssey batteries are made in the USA and use nearly pure lead in their construction.
- The lead designer left Odyssey and started the Northstar automotive batteries.
The store I went to stocked Optima and Northstar (along with huge amounts of lead-acid ones) but not Odyssey. The manager told me he preferred Northstar but could order me an Odyssey if I wanted one. I told him if I could get two of the newest Northstars then I'd buy them (20CCA and 10 reserve minutes less than the Odyssey Extreme). He went to the back, pulled out a freshly delivered pallet of batteries, and came out with two that were manufactured this month (July 2017) so I got them. I think I can get by with 930CCA for each battery.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 31
From: OKC, OK
Things I've learned through this process:
- Best I can tell Optima moved production to Mexico starting in early 2009 (and is owned by Johnson Controls).
- The Odyssey Extreme battery has more CCA and reserve capacity that the Odyssey Performance battery.
- Northstar also makes the X2 brand sold by batteriesandbulbs.com
- Both the Northstar and Odyssey batteries are made in the USA and use nearly pure lead in their construction.
- The lead designer left Odyssey and started the Northstar automotive batteries.
The store I went to stocked Optima and Northstar (along with huge amounts of lead-acid ones) but not Odyssey. The manager told me he preferred Northstar but could order me an Odyssey if I wanted one. I told him if I could get two of the newest Northstars then I'd buy them (20CCA and 10 reserve minutes less than the Odyssey Extreme). He went to the back, pulled out a freshly delivered pallet of batteries, and came out with two that were manufactured this month (July 2017) so I got them. I think I can get by with 930CCA for each battery.
- Best I can tell Optima moved production to Mexico starting in early 2009 (and is owned by Johnson Controls).
- The Odyssey Extreme battery has more CCA and reserve capacity that the Odyssey Performance battery.
- Northstar also makes the X2 brand sold by batteriesandbulbs.com
- Both the Northstar and Odyssey batteries are made in the USA and use nearly pure lead in their construction.
- The lead designer left Odyssey and started the Northstar automotive batteries.
The store I went to stocked Optima and Northstar (along with huge amounts of lead-acid ones) but not Odyssey. The manager told me he preferred Northstar but could order me an Odyssey if I wanted one. I told him if I could get two of the newest Northstars then I'd buy them (20CCA and 10 reserve minutes less than the Odyssey Extreme). He went to the back, pulled out a freshly delivered pallet of batteries, and came out with two that were manufactured this month (July 2017) so I got them. I think I can get by with 930CCA for each battery.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,348
Likes: 5,941
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
This is a good read and may help someone make a decision...
Best AGM Battery | AGM Battery Comparison | Impact Battery
Best AGM Battery | AGM Battery Comparison | Impact Battery
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
$260 each at a local battery/electrical shop. I don't know how much the Odyssey was as he didn't have them in stock, I wasn't going to order one, and I was planning on paying more than that. I was geared up for $300/battery so I was happy with $260 and got them. I think I paid about $220/battery for my Optima Red Tops back in the day and I think I got way more than $40 extra with these (they weigh over 20lbs more than my Optimas).
I think that Optima has limited it's potential with their casing. While you can pick an Optima out of a crowd, the Group 34 size only allows so much room to work with (you can fit more in a Ford Explorer than you can a Fiat 500).
Now I just need to find some OEM Group 65 battery clamps. I've had Optimas for 9 years now and have absolutely no idea where I put the original clamps for the Group 65 battery. I know I put them somewhere safe "where I would remember them". When I do find that safe place there is going to be a lot of stuff waiting for me as I've stored a lot of things "where I would remember them".
I think that Optima has limited it's potential with their casing. While you can pick an Optima out of a crowd, the Group 34 size only allows so much room to work with (you can fit more in a Ford Explorer than you can a Fiat 500).
Now I just need to find some OEM Group 65 battery clamps. I've had Optimas for 9 years now and have absolutely no idea where I put the original clamps for the Group 65 battery. I know I put them somewhere safe "where I would remember them". When I do find that safe place there is going to be a lot of stuff waiting for me as I've stored a lot of things "where I would remember them".
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
Brian, you sound more like me every day. I have a complete set of stainless braided brake lines I KNOW I bought about 5-6 years ago, but absolutely have not been able to find them the last three times I've gone to do the install. I'm getting ready to finally empty all my shelves and cabinets in the garage just to get organized, and can;t wait to find those puppies and get them installed.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
That is why Odyssey was on my preliminary list. As I did some research DEKA was a consideration but did not have the power and reserve of the Odyssey. As I learned more about the pure lead thin plate construction I had made my mind up that I was going that direction. That is when I came across Northstar. Same engineering and also made in the USA. The Northstar and Odyssey are nearly a toss-up and the store I went to only had Northstar. They were willing to give me the newest ones (from their latest shipment and made this month so as close to a matched pair as I can reasonably get) so I couldn't pass up the opportunity to walk away with them (no shipping, no waiting, no unknown manufacturing date, and in good physical condition). Plus they handle the warranty then go to Northstar so if there's an issue with either of them in the next 4 years I just go to the shop and they'll give me a new one.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 10
I also appreciate made in the USA. That is why I went to Optima back in 2008...made in the USA. My warrant replacements weren't but they were free and lasted me until now.
That is why Odyssey was on my preliminary list. As I did some research DEKA was a consideration but did not have the power and reserve of the Odyssey. As I learned more about the pure lead thin plate construction I had made my mind up that I was going that direction. That is when I came across Northstar. Same engineering and also made in the USA. The Northstar and Odyssey are nearly a toss-up and the store I went to only had Northstar. They were willing to give me the newest ones (from their latest shipment and made this month so as close to a matched pair as I can reasonably get) so I couldn't pass up the opportunity to walk away with them (no shipping, no waiting, no unknown manufacturing date, and in good physical condition). Plus they handle the warranty then go to Northstar so if there's an issue with either of them in the next 4 years I just go to the shop and they'll give me a new one.
That is why Odyssey was on my preliminary list. As I did some research DEKA was a consideration but did not have the power and reserve of the Odyssey. As I learned more about the pure lead thin plate construction I had made my mind up that I was going that direction. That is when I came across Northstar. Same engineering and also made in the USA. The Northstar and Odyssey are nearly a toss-up and the store I went to only had Northstar. They were willing to give me the newest ones (from their latest shipment and made this month so as close to a matched pair as I can reasonably get) so I couldn't pass up the opportunity to walk away with them (no shipping, no waiting, no unknown manufacturing date, and in good physical condition). Plus they handle the warranty then go to Northstar so if there's an issue with either of them in the next 4 years I just go to the shop and they'll give me a new one.
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Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
I do alot of off-roading and a sealed battery works better for me. I had good luck with the Optimas so I'm hoping these Northstars continue the tradition. It seems they've taken those issues into consideration so we'll see.
https://www.northstarbattery.com/transportation
https://www.northstarbattery.com/transportation
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
Yes they are, that's why I prefer them. I got tired of opening the hood and seeing white on the battery trays. I figure I offset some of the cost by not having to douche the area with a baking soda/water mix and soak/scrub the terminal connectors to clean it up.
New User
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
From: Central Indiana
I am on my third set in 12 years of Costco batteries. They have the best warranty if you do have a problem. I have never gotten 8 years though out of a set. I did have a weak HPOP and only drove about 4 miles per trip to work. In the winter those long starts and then minimal charging took a toll on the batteries. Just put my rebuilt HPOP in and the starts are 1/2 as long, so this winter should be much easier on my electrical system!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 87
From: North Carolina, Raleigh
wow 4 miles.. you might want to do that in 2nd gear only to get higher rpm and more amps into batteries. Man that is super hard on an gas engine and super duper hard on diesel. might be cheaper to buy a 2K car and keep the truck parked. it pays for itself in a year or so just in wear n tear.
I have a 2001 hyundai elantra for sale for $1500
156K miles and runs like a top.
I have a 2001 hyundai elantra for sale for $1500
156K miles and runs like a top. Just some suggestions and a couple questions:
Q: What was the ambient Temperature?
Q: What was the Static Pressure before starting the Compressor? Both should be equal. And, R134a pressure should be near ambient temperature. As such, this is "general" indication of the system being charged.
Q: What was the low side pressure? If it was low, with little or no fluctuation, or, is very slow to recover based on a Pressure Temperature Chart, you're looking at a blockage. We know the high-side pressure is well above 275 psig so we can "assume" based on this there is an issue. But where? The low side will tell the tale. Otherwise, the compressor itself may have a blockage within.
Most often, these three observations will get you moving in the right direction.
I would evacuate the system, and remove Orifice Tube for inspection. If there is any debris, its a sign of something has come apart. Specifically, the compressor.
Now, if you have debris that has blocked the Orifice Tube, the system lines will need flushing. You will want to replace (dependent upon what materials are identified) The Orifice Tube, Condenser, and Accumulator. And, if there is metals, the Compressor.
Why?
The Tube can not be cleaned if debris has blocked it. Blowing air through it will expand the screen openings and make them inconsistent.
The Accumulator is basically a holder for desiccant which traps moisture and impurities.
The Condenser is a stack-plate cooler. Because of its design, they are virtually impossible to clean or flush.
If you don't replace these parts you may have A/C for a week, month, or year. But, some certainty that it will fail again.
As for the Compressor, we are blessed, in that, ours are relatively inexpensive compared to most.
If you're doing the work yourself, or you take it somewhere if you have changed the parts:
Don't let the system open for more than 24 hours.
Make certain they know to add PAG Oil and describe in detail what parts were changed.
This is also an excellent time to add Dye. Then, should a leak occur, its much easier to identify with a UV Light than a "Sniffer".
Q: What was the ambient Temperature?
Q: What was the Static Pressure before starting the Compressor? Both should be equal. And, R134a pressure should be near ambient temperature. As such, this is "general" indication of the system being charged.
Q: What was the low side pressure? If it was low, with little or no fluctuation, or, is very slow to recover based on a Pressure Temperature Chart, you're looking at a blockage. We know the high-side pressure is well above 275 psig so we can "assume" based on this there is an issue. But where? The low side will tell the tale. Otherwise, the compressor itself may have a blockage within.
Most often, these three observations will get you moving in the right direction.
I would evacuate the system, and remove Orifice Tube for inspection. If there is any debris, its a sign of something has come apart. Specifically, the compressor.
Now, if you have debris that has blocked the Orifice Tube, the system lines will need flushing. You will want to replace (dependent upon what materials are identified) The Orifice Tube, Condenser, and Accumulator. And, if there is metals, the Compressor.
Why?
The Tube can not be cleaned if debris has blocked it. Blowing air through it will expand the screen openings and make them inconsistent.
The Accumulator is basically a holder for desiccant which traps moisture and impurities.
The Condenser is a stack-plate cooler. Because of its design, they are virtually impossible to clean or flush.
If you don't replace these parts you may have A/C for a week, month, or year. But, some certainty that it will fail again.
As for the Compressor, we are blessed, in that, ours are relatively inexpensive compared to most.
If you're doing the work yourself, or you take it somewhere if you have changed the parts:
Don't let the system open for more than 24 hours.
Make certain they know to add PAG Oil and describe in detail what parts were changed.
This is also an excellent time to add Dye. Then, should a leak occur, its much easier to identify with a UV Light than a "Sniffer".
I am on my third set in 12 years of Costco batteries. They have the best warranty if you do have a problem. I have never gotten 8 years though out of a set. I did have a weak HPOP and only drove about 4 miles per trip to work. In the winter those long starts and then minimal charging took a toll on the batteries. Just put my rebuilt HPOP in and the starts are 1/2 as long, so this winter should be much easier on my electrical system!
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arcticatdan
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