When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My son is joining the site as we try to diagnose his first diesel. I told him y'all would take pity on the cross he must bear and help him figure this out.
We checked fuel flow, and the bubble test. We held the valve down in the oil filter and watched it fill up in about 10 seconds and see it register on the dash gauge.
My Scan Gauge say it pushes 180 RPM while cranking, but it only gets about 225 on the ICP sensor and the IPR instantly maxxes out at 84. It has thrown a code P2623 for a stuck IPR valve.
I hear a hiccup in the crank, but I'll let y'all listen and tell me. Eric (BHjr) is gonna post a YouTube link of it.
What are the chances of it being just a hole in the IPR screen or bad valve? I'm afraid we have a HP leak and need to do the air test to find it. I've never done that test and barely hear (rock concerts), my son hears but doesn't know what to listen for. arrrrgh.
Classic example of uneven cranking. Here is the video (Eric (cool name btw) I think you need 20 or 30 posts before you can post links like this and horizontal filming and posting is much easier to watch).
Of course you need 500 psi to start and unplugging the ICP is the first thing to try. The IPR code could be a good clue or a high pressure oil leak. What year model is the truck? If 2004, where is the ICP? Un even cranking can be valve train or even cylinder/piston related but it should still start and run.
Hey, this is an '06. I discoed the ICP and no difference. We went ahead and removed the IPR valve, I don't even think the wire was connected to it, and it unscrewed by hand as if it wasn't even in all the way. The screen had a ding, part of the plastic broken off and the screen pushed in, but no hole.
Classic example of uneven cranking. ... Un even cranking can be valve train or even cylinder/piston related but it should still start and run.
Honestly it just sounds like normal half-dead battery cranking after you've been on it for a few cycles. After an oil cooler on an '03 and the STC on my '07, both trucks sounded the exact same when cranking over after the HPO system was opened up, and my truck needed batteries about a month after having to charge them up for the first start. 40k miles on my truck since the work was done..... Cranks smooth now too, it's doing it's Cold-ICP-sensor long crank deal again and taking 5-10 seconds on cold starts.
This guy had a booster on the batteries, but once it caught, doesn't sound like any hard part compression problems once it catches. I'd call it more a hitch in the starter's push rather than a surge like if you have a cylinder with low compression?
I was on the fence about it as well. Definite hiccup, but sounded a lot better with the batteries charged. But it shouldn't keep it from starting, so we're off to the dealer for a new IPR screen tomorrow. IIRC, they don't know what one is and try to sell the entire IPR. Eric found a part number online, so we'll try that out. It just seems like the wire being off the IPR mighta kept it from starting - does it explain why SG immediately maxxes to 84IPR when it cranks?
While you have the valve out you may want to flush it with come carb cleaner.
Go get a small screwdriver that fits into the hole behind the screen and press down
and hold . Then take the spray cleaner and use the little straw and flush it out.
I missed this. If the IPR was open because it wasn't wired in then this would be exactly what would be happening. When you unplugged the ICP, the FICM was running the spool valves but it didn't matter because it still takes a little over 400psi on the oil side to move the plunger in the injector. It won't even hiccup unless there's enough HPO pressure to compress the spring in the injectors.
From what I have seen, the oil filter bowl should fill up quicker than 10 seconds with the valve closed. 10-12 seconds with it open is more normal IIRC.
I'm not positive the IPR wire was discoed. My son tore down to the FICM bolts and I came over to show him how to release the harness. After getting that and the harness ground/injectors outta the way, I found the IPR wire laying off to the right. Maybe he or I pulled it off without knowing, but I think it has a retaing wire to prevent that. And when I went to break the valve lose, it just turned like my socket fell offf, barely hand tight. So, something ain't right.
Recall that this was a stolen truck, most of which usually run. It's possible the previous owner either wrecked it first offroading and decided to report it stolen. He stripped wheels etc and cut the IPR to insure it was totalled by insurance.
Or, he blew the engine first, took out the IPR while diagnosing, then decided to report it stolen, stripped it and wrecked the body.
Dealer wanted $55 for the screen set, so we're gonna order it online. See one on eBay for $37.
I'm not positive the IPR wire was discoed. My son tore down to the FICM bolts and I came over to show him how to release the harness. After getting that and the harness ground/injectors outta the way, I found the IPR wire laying off to the right. Maybe he or I pulled it off without knowing, but I think it has a retaing wire to prevent that. And when I went to break the valve lose, it just turned like my socket fell offf, barely hand tight. So, something ain't right.
Recall that this was a stolen truck, most of which usually run. It's possible the previous owner either wrecked it first offroading and decided to report it stolen. He stripped wheels etc and cut the IPR to insure it was totalled by insurance.
Or, he blew the engine first, took out the IPR while diagnosing, then decided to report it stolen, stripped it and wrecked the body.
Dealer wanted $55 for the screen set, so we're gonna order it online. See one on eBay for $37.
FWIW, we carry that screen kit for $34.85 at http://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=386/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd386.htm.
You our may also want to look at just picking up the whole Snap To Connect HPOP kit as that comes with the updates STC fitting, the screen kit, and a turbo mounting kit all for $51.21 at http://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=79/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd79.htm
You our may also want to look at just picking up the whole Snap To Connect HPOP kit as that comes with the updates STC fitting, the screen kit, and a turbo mounting kit all for $51.21 at FORD OEM 6.0L V8 Snap to Connect Kit 4C3Z-9B246-F
Dang, I forgot to tell my son about your site, Ed - actually, he's so fast that he found it and had it ordered before I told him anything. Glad to see he didn't get taken too badly. Thanks for introducing yourself, he'll know next time.
Dang, I forgot to tell my son about your site, Ed - actually, he's so fast that he found it and had it ordered before I told him anything. Glad to see he didn't get taken too badly. Thanks for introducing yourself, he'll know next time.
No worries! We actually carry a bit over two million skus....just for less money. Hope your truck is back on the mend!
Even a blind dog finds a bone from time to time. This truck fired right up as soon as I replaced the IPR screen and connected the wire. I definitely think someone intentionally sabotaged the truck, either the previous owner to ensure the insurance company totalled it, or someone in the auction/towing process to make it go for a low price. That would explain why it auctioned higher -I couldn't believe the other guy hung on so long. It was just me and him for the final $1500, which was $700 higher than I thought it'd go for at the most. He stuck in there like he knew it would run, I stuck on a hunch it would run.
We still got a ways to go. Need to replace a bed side, buy a tailgate, and front door panels with power switches. I got an old black grill, but we want to find a chrome one - the new aftermarket ones are pretty cheap.
The dash bezel on this truck is cool. All red lights with the brand "Regency" lit up. I'll try to post pics. Just found out the thief cut the headlight bulbs off. Prolly had high dollar bulbs, but why cut the wires and steal the whole plug?