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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

E4od upgrade questions?

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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 05:44 PM
  #76  
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Okay got a pressure guage hooked up what kinda pressure should I be looking for I gear showed about 140 in 1 with foot on brake idling and I believe similar in reverse with foot on brake idling and like 90 I believe in drive.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 09:00 PM
  #77  
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Well after several hours went to backup and it was like I was holding brake to floor would barley move it’s not like it’s slipping it’s like it locking up just was moving it inside fence due to tools and fuel cell full of fuel in back. Any help is appreciated but I’m thinki it’s to late
 
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 09:08 PM
  #78  
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Line pressure chart:
​​​​​​​
 
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Old Jun 19, 2018 | 12:21 PM
  #79  
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Pressures aren’t to bad but it literally binding in reverse I’m gonna pull pan and check everything but I’m probably gonna half to change trans I’m suspecting. This trans has what seems to be a upgraded tc do u guys think I’ll be okay to use it in another trans.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2018 | 12:29 PM
  #80  
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A pic of the converter helps. High quality ones usually have a billet cover, mine always have in the past.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2018 | 01:34 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by 7.3 forever
Pressures aren’t to bad but it literally binding in reverse I’m gonna pull pan and check everything but I’m probably gonna half to change trans I’m suspecting. This trans has what seems to be a upgraded tc do u guys think I’ll be okay to use it in another trans.
Does it move forward in neutral? If so, the forward clutch is dragging.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2018 | 10:40 PM
  #82  
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Haven’t tried that yet haven’t even had time to mess with it I’ll try tomorrow though and let you guys know. Also a couple pages back there is pics of the torque converter sorry couldn’t find pics on my phone of converter but there’s others.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2018 | 10:48 AM
  #83  
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Truck doesn’t try to move forward in nuteral at all
 
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 11:48 AM
  #84  
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Okay haven’t had time to pull my trans pan yet or anything been busy. But anyway if I half to end up swapping trans I think I’m gonna atleast get a new tc for other trans and save this trans to get built eventually. I’ve been looking at tc options most of them are a little on pricy side for me at the moment. Anyway I was on kt performances website and they have a single disk 350 horsepower tc for reasonable do u guys think that it’s a decent option I just need my truck back up on the road ASAP. Thanks for responses in advance.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 01:36 PM
  #85  
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Your a little to far away for me to help on your trans.
But I always get a triple disk low stall for mine when I build 1. On a 7.3 anyways
I haven't read all the way through your post. Did you buy it or build it?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 02:27 PM
  #86  
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Torque is going to make the clutch in the converter slip.

IMO, spend the money now and do it once...if you have to sell it, whip out that receipt. BIG selling point to me to have a real converter in a Diesel truck, performance difference is shocking. PI converters are badass, that is all I run. My ZF S547 build went from a basic rebuild to spiraled out of control due to so many worn items, just how life goes I guess. In any event, the PI can be rebuilt also.

I have never had a converter failure causing your issues, but I do not have enough seat time with the E4OD/4R100 to say it is not the issue. Mainly AOD, 4L60E, 5R110W.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2018 | 05:07 PM
  #87  
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I don’t think the converter failed but if I’m gonna swap trans again due to issues with this trans I’d rather not use anything from this trans. And I’m a firm believer in trying to due things right honestly if I had to do over again I’d have waited couple years and got a bts. But I need my truck back up and going at this point so guess I’ll just see what happens when I get trans pan off.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2018 | 01:58 PM
  #88  
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Okay guys truck has been parked for a couple weeks I guess since all this started. I had a little extra time this morning so I pulled it in shop and drained fluid and dropped pan. The filter was still attached I ended re tightening down the valve body several bolts weren’t very tight all all whoops guess that ones on me what I get for getting in a hurry. Anyway topped fluid off and took for spin it emediatly backed out of shop almost on it own. Took truck for drive and backed up several times all seems well but I do believe I need a new brake light switch. I noticed when I was pulling it in they stayed on till I pulled up on pedal so I’ve pulled up on pedal every time I’ve hit brakes since. Going to take truck on drive this evening and see what happens. I’ll keep you guys posted also fluid was still clean
 
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Old Jul 3, 2018 | 09:48 PM
  #89  
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Took truck on another short little drive about 15 miles bit of it town driving stopped and backed up a couple times. All seems well so hopefully I’m good to go for a bit. Guess it’s time to get some other maintenance stuff finished up on the truck. I’ll post how it does in morning thanks for all the help guys just another reason why I love this forum.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 09:46 PM
  #90  
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Sorry it’s been a while guys but since tightening valve body all has been well minus on occasion the converter will unlock and lock a couple times before staying locked . But this has only happened maybe 5-6 times. I’ve been to swamped at work to get it in the shop to take a look. Any and all advice would be very helpful and welcome. But on another note I think I’m getting ready to half to replace my batteries because of slow cranking and low voltage at startup. Something I’ve noticed is when I first start the truck in the morning the voltage gauge Barley moves till a good solid 2 maybe 3 minuets of running but if I drop truck in reverse before voltage gauge partially moves sometimes it will die in reverse. This may not be related but since I’ve been wanting for voltage to come up I’ve not had a single issue with reverse. Once again what do you guys think.
 
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