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Yes, it is very possible it flooded while driving. Forgive me if my rememberer isn't working, but this truck sat for some time, and you haven't replaced anything on the fuel system other than repair the fuel line - right? If so, you need to replace, and probably add, fuel filters. It is probabl that there is junk in the tank, and maybe even rust. Many guys will say spend the $100 and buy a new tank, but I'd spend a few bucks and replace whatever fuel filter is on it and add another. I like to run one filter ahead of the fuel pump and one after it. Use the cheap clear plastic ones and put them where you can see them so you know when to replace them.
Yes, it is very possible it flooded while driving. Forgive me if my rememberer isn't working, but this truck sat for some time, and you haven't replaced anything on the fuel system other than repair the fuel line - right? If so, you need to replace, and probably add, fuel filters. It is probabl that there is junk in the tank, and maybe even rust. Many guys will say spend the $100 and buy a new tank, but I'd spend a few bucks and replace whatever fuel filter is on it and add another. I like to run one filter ahead of the fuel pump and one after it. Use the cheap clear plastic ones and put them where you can see them so you know when to replace them.
The fuel filter is a clear one. It looks ok. Guess I can't really see inside it though. I'll replace and add another one before the pump.
I also found out that my temp gauge doesn't work.
Just the coolant temp sensor/sending unit I'm guessing? There a way to test the gauge?
Just the coolant temp sensor/sending unit I'm guessing? There a way to test the gauge?
Here's another low-buck way to check. Does your truck also have an oil pressure gauge? If so, the gauge internals are the same electrically. They just have different labels on the face.
Unhook the wires from the two senders. Use some test leads to connect the oil pressure circuit to the temp sensor, and visa versa. Now run the truck for a minute or so. The oil pressure gauge will indicate the signal from the temp sensor. The temp gauge will indicate the signal from the oil pressure sensor.
This should quickly isolate if you're dealing with a bad sensor or a problem with the gauge and associated wiring.
Here's another low-buck way to check. Does your truck also have an oil pressure gauge? If so, the gauge internals are the same electrically. They just have different labels on the face.
Unhook the wires from the two senders. Use some test leads to connect the oil pressure circuit to the temp sensor, and visa versa. Now run the truck for a minute or so. The oil pressure gauge will indicate the signal from the temp sensor. The temp gauge will indicate the signal from the oil pressure sensor.
This should quickly isolate if you're dealing with a bad sensor or a problem with the gauge and associated wiring.
It doesn't have a gauge. Just a light.
I wish it it had a gauge for oil and battery. Project for later I suppose.
Well the gauge is slowing starting to work on its own. Maybe flushing the coolant is helping. If it doesn't start working after another flush I'll replace it or I may just replace it just because.
Anyway I started replacing some vacuum lines that are very brittle. But alot of the vacuum lines are either missing or being plugged up. What on this diagram do i need to hook back up?
The air cleaner, the PCV and the distributor advance for sure.
Take note of the restrictor in the vacuum advance line.
Where is the restrictor in the diagram? Sorry, I'm not familiar with reading diagrams. To be honest I don't know what some of the Acronyms mean either. I'll have to look them up.
Then comes figuring out where these things are located.
Sorry, old eyes and a small screen.
There doesn't appear to be VREST in your advance line.
These diagrams do their best to lay things out spacially.
I think the vacuum acronyms are in the stickies at the top of this section as well.
I'm sure I'll have questions. It has been over 15 years since I have worked on something with a vacuum lines and even then wasn't super sure how it all worked.
I'll be replacing the coolant temp sensor as soon as I clean up the engine block and around the oil pan and here is why:
I have a leak somewhere and it has gotten worse after changing the oil and putting the seafoam in. It went from a drip to a puddle. Probably cleared some of the gunk out that was helping to seal stuff I'm guessing?
Probably time to pull the pan and put a new gasket on but want to clean it up to verify. Any suggestions on cleaning? just some engine de-greaser or soap and water? (mindful of the electrics of course)
Only a couple weeks late on my part... Ditch that battery ground cable with the bolt-on "emergency" terminal on the end. Those are aptly named, as they will cause an emergency for you when your truck won't start, usually at the worst possible time.
Is the other end attached to the AC compressor? Get a longer cable and bolt it directly to the engine block. Your starter and alternator will thank you.
Here's my sob story for the process on a 351W. While many of the details are different, some tips will still apply, such as putting jack stands under the frame, etc.
Prepare yourself for a revival of The Great Oil Pan Gasket Debate. There are two parties in the debate. For the sake of simplicity, I've assigned neutral, non- judgemental names to each party:
One group says it's easier to pull the engine. We'll call this group "Wrong".
The other group says it's easier to do it in situ. We'll call this group "Right".
For anybody else joining the debate, don't forget to preface your opinion by mentioning which group you're with. I'm right.
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