Did you try to turn it over with the cac tube off the intake elbow ? I have had this on an engine I rebuilt but went away quickly and never came back. It was very pronounced with the tube off.

 

Jack this is a DANGEROUS thread for me to keep reading. My wife hates when on every project I say, "While I'm this far into it or while I have it this far apart I would be an idiot to not fix that or replace this at the same time." And it can be anything, car, truck, house etc.

I can smell and oil cooler in my future, looks like I'll be cleaning up alot of other things at the same time.... You do great work!!

 

Payback is a bitch.

You had to show the underside of your truck.

This Jersey truck has the crusty, thick flake rust in capturing areas like many northern, and especially Jersey Shore trucks. No time to get real deep into it, but while the motors out .....

"While you are there ....."




As with many Jersey Shore trucks of this age (unless you had the forethought of Fluid Film) strong rust with deep flakey component. But the electrical connection is good!






Needle scaler, wire brush of die grinder a little (need the rust for POR 15), Zep degreaser, power wash, degreaser, power wash, let rust form on bare areas for two days. What didn't have a rust base for the POR will get Eastwood Encapsulator. All the rusk flakes that came off are on the driveway.






Internal frame and other areas may get done in the spring. For me, semi-gloss black is correct for a frame, especially when it's not smooth.






Probably put an hour or so into it total.




We replaced out old GE dishwasher with a Bosch a while back. I rebuilt the GE about 4 times, soundproofed it, but it was time. However, I couldn't put it to the curbside.


Meet my outdoors parts washer. In this corner I've got electricity, garden hose, and sewer clean-out.





Nuts, bolts and other parts that need degreasing, or degreasing before acid bath, and the other funky things you're going to paint.






What's proper for a Powerstroke? Pots and Pans, sanitize, I wonder if they make an automotive appropriate replacement front plate .... depends on the parts, plastic or metal.

 

Just a thought, did you put air to the cylinders one at a time just to make sure? I would hate to have to take this back a part again.

 

Poor 15 is the way to go with the northern trucks Jack. I love the stuff,but don't get it on anything you don't love(favorite jeans,shirt, jacket Ford baseball cap) I have to do Big Blu or it's gonna go the route the Ex is and have to have some surgery. Problem is they don't make panels for the Ex anymore and I don't think any aftermarket is yet either. I might have to gosouth and get a donor.

 

I worked with POR 15 for some time, but going back just a few years I've not been that happy. Not sure if the product changed or I got lazy. Even using their prep products it doesn't seem to hold on non-rusted metal like I remember it did.

I also used their poly paint for my trailer toolboxes. Both sides were prepped exactly the same, painted at the same time. One box held up well, the other box the paint just lifted off using a pressure washer. It was so weird, look to the left and all is good, to the right it's not white anymore .....

So I still have some POR materials here, but I also have some of Eastwoods too. Some have said it performs better, I need to give it a try.

 

As much as I thought the driver's side stand tube was tough to break free, it had nothing on the pass side. I know I have about half the strength I had two years ago, but this was nuts for a O-Ringed connection.

 

Damn Jack!!! I would have hated to cross you two years ago. . The way you twisted that up I would still hate to cross ya.

 

Jack, if you're wondering, I've seen them come out hard too. The last 03 that we pulled heads both tubes twisted. It was a factory original virgin with popped gaskets with 78k miles IIRC.

 

Looks a little past the TTY point.

EDIT: You should clean that up and frame it.

 

Fel-Pro has these tubes. I'm using them right now. They're made by Eaton. The old Ford ones I took out were the same. It's stamped on the hex. Fraction of the cost of Ford. You may want to look in to them.

 

The other way to save money is buy from IH.
As I recall in the Tech Folder there is a Ford to International Harvester
part number crossover listing. There are a few items that sometimes are
more at IH than Ford. But for the most part they are a lot less. In in
some cases even if they are a bit more the part from HI lasts longer. Like
the T-stat. The Ford/Motorcraft one lasts 18~24 Mo where the IDH one I
had in the old truck was going on it's 4th year and was still holding a stable
temp. The Ford ones seem to start to drift lower after the first winter for me.

 

Bill, thanks. I was looking to buy those but RA one had one left on a closeout for $20 so I went to ANWB at $78 each. While that sounds stupid, I wasn’t sure of the source and wanted both the same.

The aftermarket has a lot of parts that are from the OE supplier. There are very little parts that companies even like Ford make today and even with aftermarket parts are cross sold to remarketers where it’s too expensive to tool up. Mostly in the car lines it’s motors and trans that the parent makes, and a lot of internals are sourced. Went you get to commercial trucks it’s even less. We once had our quarterly Sales/R&D meetings at our SC plant so we visited the Freightliner assembly plant. Those in the group who were not motorheads afterwards were astonished and kept talking about “All they do is assemble parts”.

Eaton was one of the best companies I ever worked with. I understand they were the original suppliers of our lifters, then shut that down and they were OE sourced from Delphi. That may be the “8” change in the part number.

Danny, long breaker bar. And the stand was stable as hell.

 

Sometimes you can save but 1/2 the time parts are more and 1/2 the time, less. The turbo supply and drain lines are good examples of ford being WAY cheaper on one and IH on the other. Injectors weren't even close. It may be different now.

 

Goodside

Ordered FelPro stand pipes of 1/2 price of Motorcraft, thanks Bill.

Bad side

Thought I could just touch up rust spots on the oil pan, but when scratching up the heavy paint surface that the rebulider put on it became obvious that more rust was prevalent. So a 15 minute task became two hours.










Drivers side head off. I choose poorly. It needs 20mm head gaskets, I ordered 18mm for this 2003. I should have known as the Ford rebuilding brochure mentioned new heads, not remanufactured, and the 20s were in production.






Cylinder 2





Cylinder 4





Cylinder 6




Cylinder 8





I've watched technicians vids, and I remember when a rebuilder got a motor back (Anthony returned?) they blow off the head bolts with an impact. That's not the way I ever did it, especially after we had measured rotor distortion from improper tightening procedures.

So when I pulled these, just like I've done on 289s, I back off 45 degrees per bolt in the opposite sequence of the install, then another 45, ....... It's not all about the even clamping force between the bolts, but also compressive stress across the head. I'd rather remove them evenly. At least in my doing the work.






So a question for you guys who have been into the 6.0s. In the service manual it states to toss the dowels and replace. I've never come across that before.