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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Intake thump and more......

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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 04:10 PM
  #31  
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Man, Jack, my heart has been going out to you reading this thread and all that lead up to it...

1) Have a good shop you trust in the area?
2) Buy Randy a double semi-truck full of beer?
3) Put a longer pushrod in 8 exh. and sell it?

Crap, Crap, CRAP...
 
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 04:20 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
The only engines I care to be working on under a regular basis would be 289 HiPos. I do have a '69 351W HiPo to fit into the mix, though.


Drum roll, please ......

The answer is ........ a perfectly straight pushrod. And perfectly good rocker.

So lifter or cam lobe. No particles in the oil filter, visually or magnetic. And didn't shut down due to low oil pressure.

Two relative balance IDS tests prior to this showed no issues. Cold, #2 down 1% which I saw years prior. Hot all at 100%.
Change the oil and filter and go drive it for a couple of hours, it needs it and you need a break.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 04:48 PM
  #33  
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It's a little apart right now ........

I'm really hoping someone is going to jump in and find a flaw with what I've diagnosed.

I really have to figure what I want to do. This was a $16k motor replacement almost 10 years, 70k miles ago, and then it was a hard decision to get a motor in it based on a cost analysis. Now it got 10 years more Northeast environmental damage. This is getting old.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 07:18 PM
  #34  
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If you would like to talk to Anthony at SDS and show him your findings in this thread, having qualified feedback will help you along in the right direction.
wished it was just a bad belt tensioner.
Whatever you decide, it would be good to know the "why".
10 years ago, I don't think the shorter rods were discussed, you can always measure one.
Because I don't remember if the OEM longer pushrods had the copper ball or not.??? Anyone??? Bueller???

6.0 OEM should read right at 9.850
6.4 updated length = 9.795
 
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 07:41 PM
  #35  
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Hmmmm.......Jack, want my honest opinion? If it was my truck I'd try the older push rod and drive it till the thump gets a little louder or off it. There's no way on these trucks to check the lifter without taking them apart to know for sure if it is a lifter or a cam.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 08:11 PM
  #36  
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Put the longer push rod in, drive it a bit to see how it does... then pick a new color.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 08:45 PM
  #37  
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Right now it does not appear there are lifter parts in the LPOP or farther, and I don't want to get to that situation if it's the lifter coming apart. If it's hydraulically failed and travel is being lost due to the extension spring movement and no hydraulics then it could run a good while I'm guessing. I didn't take pics or a vid of pulling it down today, but with the previous work #8 exhaust was looser then all the others.

As a mentioned earlier, since this motor was installed I always thought I've heard a tap, like a solid lifter motor. It's had synthetic oil changes normally every 5k, good oil, Motorcraft filters. The last two years I've thought it was louder, and especially this last December. But had real hope (or delusional) it was injector related as an FSE thought. So my gut says it's been developing over this time, just surprised at the serious thumping. Although I can play back video of the electrical videos and there some hints. But again, an "03 production extra noise" or a developing problem.

As much as it could just be a lifter, it could also be a wiped lobe. But either way I can't see how to avoid pulling this all the way down, #8 lifter or a cam.

I'm really trying to put together what I want to do here and Les and I have started to talk.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 09:06 PM
  #38  
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#1 exhaust

Jack, im working on an 06 with the lifter problem now. Mine came in with a hard start, it would slow much worse than yours when cranking. I had a #1 cyl code pulled it apart and found a bent pushrod on # 1 intake. Replaced that and it started better but not right. Now I have a #3 cyl contribution code. Come to find out #1 exhaust wasn't opening as soon as it should be, cause my lifter train wrecked. Good news no metal in filter or pump, just a lot of cleaning. I would try and measure the hight of the pushrod on your #8 against another cyl. Mine was an 1/8th inch shorter, with a good pushrod in it.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 07:35 AM
  #39  
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Very sorry to hear that all this so far points to such a simple failed component.

There are two noticeable scenarios here:
1.How much does it cost to go all the way in order to replace the (if needed) cam?
2. How much does it cost to Exchange Keys?

balanced upon needs and wants.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 08:36 AM
  #40  
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I'm still in shell shock that I'm in the same place I was 70k miles ago.

Right now I'm still investigating all paths.

Rationally I can't invest in a shop doing the work or the expense of a new block into what this truck will return, a value decision.

So I'm checking the costs pulling the motor in the driveway and tearing it down to replace possibly the $800 cam, the last component removed. But I do think it's a lifter issue as the ticking, lifter or piston slap noise, was most notable after 3,000 running miles on the oil. Unless I've got two issues!

I've looked at salvage motors, but while there are parts I don't have a problem getting salvaged, this motor is not a good base with unknown maintenance or software enhancement.

Dragging it for salvage and move on. While looking at parts I've already scanned for used truck replacements. But I hate putting a vehicle down.

We've not had an extensive discussion but when leaving for work Leslie mentioned sell off stocks and get a different vehicle.

I hadn't scanned prior, but when you Google Powerstroke 6.0 lifter it's not like you get a lot of aftermarket enhancements, you get a lot of forum threads. It's been a high production motor and many years in service, yet there are a lot of stories. This shouldn't be. Especially with a motor that had good oil, good filters, and a scheduled maintenance.

Junk, there was little wear on the pushrod tips, but I could recompress the valves and repull the pushrods. 0.125" is a lot of wear for a pushrod so maybe that lifter was not pushing oil up through the pushrod. Basically another lifter failure mode.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 09:02 AM
  #41  
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Since this is #8 we're talking about, the driveway may not be the place for such an involved overhaul as you'll have to go as far as pulling the mains to access and drop the crank to pull the cam.
I wouldn't want wind to blow crap in my work. One of those carport "tents" might help though.

Since this powerplant was replaced, was this an International crate motor, or was it an in-house build?
I am curious as which of the two sourced lifters were used in this non OEM build, as one type is made in Mexico and one is not.
Then there are the aftermarket lifters out there, You can tell by the markings which lifter type was installed if you decide to go this route and dig in.
Do you have a local that can give you a hand and help with your driveway shop scenario?
 
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 09:30 AM
  #42  
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Pull in driveway, build in garage. Right now the valve covers are only opened during non-wind periods, which is some of the reason this work has taken so long and waited until spring. Winter ain't the time to open a motor outdoors.

While I wish I still had my ex-company 4,500sqft facility with lifts, cranes, etc, where many of us did our own work on weekends, including engine rebuilds due to a very understanding manager (me), my home garage can be dust free enough for furniture clear-coating.

This motor was a Ford dealer full drop in, $16k with tax. It was a bad timing though. With the vehicle there I grabbed the Blue Diamond brochure describing the rebuilding process, something I was very comfortable as I worked directly with Ford and Nav engineering. By the time of signing the check at the pay window I read that Ford dissolved that relationship and motors were being rebuilt at regional suppliers. I would have not made the decision that I did, but I have no way of knowing if this was a BD or other.

Interesting about the lifters. I had done extensive work with Eaton at their Marshal, MI site and would expect those production lifters to be better then Delphi's. Gut feel, no knowledge.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 10:06 AM
  #43  
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Just as a note: the lifter pictured in 163junk above pic is the cheaper Mexican built lifter, you can tell by the lack of bore contact surface area.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 10:28 AM
  #44  
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Thanks for the heads up.

From another site I found this discussion:

Rather ironic there's been so many trucks with failures in this exact location, all on cylinder #7 and #8. Kinda makes you think the metallic failure might have something to do with oil starvation. Also the fact that those lifters are pushing two valves follows metal fatigue.

_____________________

6.0/6.4 lifters fail in all locations E series fail 10x more than f series not sure why but maybe due to engine hours. the 6.0 lifter is also used in 6.2,6.5,7.3,6.4 platforms I have only seen 2 7.3 lifter failures ever I don't ever remember 6.2 or 6.5 lifter failure. I have seen over 100 6.0 fail and probably at least 30 6.4's. I have seen them with as low as 20,000 miles. One conversation I had with a international engineer was a result of improper heat treat. I was told not all lifters in batch will have same heat treat and the testing is destructive so they only take sample of a batch . There are very limited number of lifter manufactures in the world. to my knowledge only 2 that make a lifter to fit 6.0 specifications Eaton and Delphi's. My under standing prior to 2002 all IH lifters were purchased from melling manufactured by Eaton. Around 2002 IH switched to Delphi lifters, my understanding they are still oe in maxxforce7. I was also told 1 contributing factor is the high valvetrain load and the reduction in zinc in engine oil in 6.0/6.4 platform resulting in excess wear. I personally believe it had a more to do with the switch to Delphi.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 10:31 AM
  #45  
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It looks like there are some options.

 
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