Intake thump and more......
#61
T6 was "not so good" for me also. Same for Valvoline PBE. My iron went up w/ both these oils. I know others using it w/ no problems though!! Definitely not wanting to start another oil thread though - BumbleBee will find out and then the sparks will fly!
Thanks for the info on the Isspro sender and fittings. I had done that research a while back and struggled to find the results. I added the fitting numbers (for both 1/8" sender and 1/4" sender) in my post before I saw your post.
Thanks for the info on the Isspro sender and fittings. I had done that research a while back and struggled to find the results. I added the fitting numbers (for both 1/8" sender and 1/4" sender) in my post before I saw your post.
#62
This ain't no hijack, just a thread progression.
I just looked at my oil reports on this rebuilt although there were a few years back, and iron was normal. I had done those because of the tick, as that was the time the injector tick was thrown out as a cause.
The aluminum cap has had a sideways mounted sensor for a very, very long time without cracking. It's pretty robust visually and in feel. A modified plastic cap, not so much.
JSM, do you have any values to go with those oils under hot idle?
Got to go farm!
I just looked at my oil reports on this rebuilt although there were a few years back, and iron was normal. I had done those because of the tick, as that was the time the injector tick was thrown out as a cause.
The aluminum cap has had a sideways mounted sensor for a very, very long time without cracking. It's pretty robust visually and in feel. A modified plastic cap, not so much.
JSM, do you have any values to go with those oils under hot idle?
Got to go farm!
#63
Jack,
Fresh 5w40 @ 190 OT and idle, a tick over 25 and down to high teens after 5000 miles. @ 2000 rpms and 195 OT it's 60 psi fresh and 50-55 after 5000 miles. I have seen Mobil 1 TDT drop to low teens @ idle when over 210 OT
15w40 will run 35 psi fresh @ idle/190 OT and drop to just under 30 after 5000 mi. @ 2000 rpm and 195 OT it's 65 fresh and 60 psi after 5000 miles. 15w40 doesn't drop off near as much at higher OT's either like the 5w40 does.
Fresh 5w40 @ 190 OT and idle, a tick over 25 and down to high teens after 5000 miles. @ 2000 rpms and 195 OT it's 60 psi fresh and 50-55 after 5000 miles. I have seen Mobil 1 TDT drop to low teens @ idle when over 210 OT
15w40 will run 35 psi fresh @ idle/190 OT and drop to just under 30 after 5000 mi. @ 2000 rpm and 195 OT it's 65 fresh and 60 psi after 5000 miles. 15w40 doesn't drop off near as much at higher OT's either like the 5w40 does.
#64
#65
#66
So with this 75k in-service replacement motor out and on the stand I popped the HPOP cover in a clean environment so I could check the lobes.
A screen grab of the video of the rocker box I recorded so I know where everything goes back.
Number 8 Exhaust which is the one with the low amount of lift on the low pressure side of the cam.
Turned up on the lobe peak to check the highest pressure point. You can also see #7 exhaust lobe.
A slightly different angle.
Switching to a Halogen light source rather then LED doesn't highlight the scuffing.
Number 8 intake took a particle for a ride and some scuffing. Number 7 intake in the photo shows more scuffing with the LED light source in the photo, but in person it doesn't view this bad, and with a brass O-Ring tool you can't feel any discrepancy.
And the different wavelength of light alters the appearance.
And there was a separation of the top O-Ring seal.
And a little erosion at this one point.
A screen grab of the video of the rocker box I recorded so I know where everything goes back.
Number 8 Exhaust which is the one with the low amount of lift on the low pressure side of the cam.
Turned up on the lobe peak to check the highest pressure point. You can also see #7 exhaust lobe.
A slightly different angle.
Switching to a Halogen light source rather then LED doesn't highlight the scuffing.
Number 8 intake took a particle for a ride and some scuffing. Number 7 intake in the photo shows more scuffing with the LED light source in the photo, but in person it doesn't view this bad, and with a brass O-Ring tool you can't feel any discrepancy.
And the different wavelength of light alters the appearance.
And there was a separation of the top O-Ring seal.
And a little erosion at this one point.
#67
#68
#69
Yeah. it's been awhile. Last spring I pulled the injector, pulled the rod. Absolutely, perfectly straight. I was really, really, really hoping it was a bent rod.
For me Pete, the dial indicator work done back in the spring I think showed that, 0.080" less then the others. I was worried that the cam lobe may have caused that, but it didn't.
For me Pete, the dial indicator work done back in the spring I think showed that, 0.080" less then the others. I was worried that the cam lobe may have caused that, but it didn't.
#70
#71
#72
Blast cabinet and compressor to go with it went the way of the test facility. Wire wheel in the angle, Scotchbrite in the die grinder, and paint we’ll have to see. This entire motor was sprayed with blunt paint when Ford rebuilt it. EVERYTHING, including all the aluminum. I’d love to get it back to original, but ...... they should be soda blasted.
#73
#74
#75
Well I jumped on here to do alittle oil research and got sucked into the thread, 30 min gone Hate this one is causing you headache and I wish I could help but everything I could think of suggesting has already been So I'll just sit back and hope for a good outcome.
I enjoy my truck everyday but I'm always keeping my eyes open for the opportunity and right circumstances on a 6.7 locally.......
I enjoy my truck everyday but I'm always keeping my eyes open for the opportunity and right circumstances on a 6.7 locally.......