What should I see?
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: SGV SoCal
You r right about the boost gauge, I had one with a 0-30 psig installed for test purposes. The gauge kit comes with a 0-60 psig range for some reason. My guess is 0-40 would be ideal for the 7.3. I did a boost leak test a few weeks ago, things r tight as far as I can tell.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,465
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Originally Posted by Karlow
You r right about the boost gauge, I had one with a 0-30 psig installed for test purposes. The gauge kit comes with a 0-60 psig range for some reason. My guess is 0-40 would be ideal for the 7.3. I did a boost leak test a few weeks ago, things r tight as far as I can tell.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,465
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From: Jacksonville, FL
I had the exact same problem then. Must have been a 0-60 I had. Anyway the 0-35 made a huge difference! Well worth the cost, and easier to install the second time! (No having to drill and fish hose...)
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From: SGV SoCal
I will live with it (60 psig). Today's project was 6L trans cooler. As usually everything has to be a PITA. Its in, total cost about $160.
FYI I used a 4 ft section and a 2ft section of 1/2" line and a couple of 4" sections of 3/8". All of the adapters that u need are at Home Depot. My forearms are all chewed up from the condenser.
FYI I used a 4 ft section and a 2ft section of 1/2" line and a couple of 4" sections of 3/8". All of the adapters that u need are at Home Depot. My forearms are all chewed up from the condenser.
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: SGV SoCal
Dam u are right! I still have scars.
That dam condenser is hungry.
You might want to consider taping your forearms up!
Now I hate tinermen nuts. Those little besting kept falling out.
One was MIA for about an hour. I gave up and robbed one from the window washer bottle mount. Yep then the missing one turns up! FYI you can get the fittings that u need from Home Depot. You need a 2ft and a 4 ft section of 1/2" line. All you have to remove is the grill and the upper mounts for the condenser. I just made a run to Pasadena and back Its about 15 miles by freeway. The trans temp got up to about 134F and the ambient is about 75. Next up is the fuel tank. I'm down to 1/4 tank. If I can't get the inspection cam in there I guess I'm going to drop it next. A big stinky truck is worthless if you can't depend on it. The WSB and YT are on the chew. I'm behind the curve. The truck has to be 100% for the run to Havsu for the Striper durby next month.
That dam condenser is hungry.
You might want to consider taping your forearms up!
Now I hate tinermen nuts. Those little besting kept falling out.
One was MIA for about an hour. I gave up and robbed one from the window washer bottle mount. Yep then the missing one turns up! FYI you can get the fittings that u need from Home Depot. You need a 2ft and a 4 ft section of 1/2" line. All you have to remove is the grill and the upper mounts for the condenser. I just made a run to Pasadena and back Its about 15 miles by freeway. The trans temp got up to about 134F and the ambient is about 75. Next up is the fuel tank. I'm down to 1/4 tank. If I can't get the inspection cam in there I guess I'm going to drop it next. A big stinky truck is worthless if you can't depend on it. The WSB and YT are on the chew. I'm behind the curve. The truck has to be 100% for the run to Havsu for the Striper durby next month.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
Yes, but with a caveat. In order for the "pressure regulator" to work properly on the MAP air line, the regulator needs to be stupid accurate. How many times have you turned the **** on an air compressor regulator, trying to dial in a specific low pressure? I stopped trying - I just get it close enough. My boost fooler from Riffraff Diesel nails 22 PSI every time, because anything over that at 2800 RPM or higher will defuel the truck something fierce with stock tuning (I've experienced that). There is also a dash light and DTC that triggers at 26-27 PSI boost - even with some of the chips on the market (I've experienced that too).
I now have modifications to my injectors, and my tuning prevents the defueling, but apparently one can still blow the MAP sensor by exceeding its limit (about 35-36 PSI boost - another T-shirt in the drawer) - so I have a boost fooler just to protect the sensor. I'd like to see if I can adjust this thing to 32 PSI max.
I now have modifications to my injectors, and my tuning prevents the defueling, but apparently one can still blow the MAP sensor by exceeding its limit (about 35-36 PSI boost - another T-shirt in the drawer) - so I have a boost fooler just to protect the sensor. I'd like to see if I can adjust this thing to 32 PSI max.
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From: SGV SoCal
With boost pressures above the regulation point the map sensor gets incorrect information. I would expect the control to become non linear above that. Does it seem to cause any issues? Here is another issue for you, pressure regulators are notoriously temperature sensitive and they do not work well with small differential pressures. They make a special "ice" spring to help with that first issue. You are not likely to find one for the little expensive ones that we are using. As for sensitivity, size is king, you need the mechanical advantage of the larger diagram. It would also help to have one that is setup for a small flow rate. It would have a smaller poppet and seat. What we need is a large 0-40 PSIG regulator for a small flow rate. Maybe something designed for an air brush?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
The tuner pretty much ignores the MAP reading above 20 PSI, and I suspect it ignores the MAP reading a good measure below that. Once that turbo lights off, there's very little need for the PCM to track its progress.
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