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How do I lower EGT's?

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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 07:54 PM
  #31  
Steelheader87's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Sous
Steelheader, I think you are beating your head against some steel trying to figure this out, when it is so simple that it is eluding you.

1. Get your truck to 100% via OBD testing (EBP, ICP, IPR, etc)
2. Stop any intake leaks (Filter box, intake tube)
3. Stop any exhaust leaks (up-pipes, manifold)
4. Stop any boost leaks (CAC boots, CAC pipes, vacuum hoses)
5. Upgrade components to fit your needs (turbo, injectors, air box)
6. Get the proper tunes from your tuner (tow, daily, heavy tow)
7. Run the proper tune when performing the requested work from the truck

I have Dorman up-pipes, RiffRaff 4/4 billet turbo wheel, rebuilt 360 bearing stock turbo, RiffRaff CAC boots, AIS intake, RiffRaff plenum inserts, new EBP and ICP sensors, no vacuum leaks, no intake leaks, no exhaust leaks.

My truck has pulled a 10K lbs camper from GA to Seattle and back during July without any problems at all. I now pull a 12K lbs 5th wheel without any problems at all. When climbing a grade I put the transmission into 4th just as I am starting the climb and the boost quickly reaches ~28. The truck maintains speed at ~60-65 and I truck on. Sometimes I do not need to shift out of 5th if the hill is rolling enough.

On flat ground towing the 5th wheel I set the cruise at 65 and let it do its thing.

You are overthinking it my friend. Just because you select a tune that has more HP, does not mean it is the best tune for the job. I tow in a Gear Head heavy tow tune and let it roll. The EGT's do not get past 1000 degrees, even on a 7% grade.

When I upgrade to 160/80 injectors and a KC38R turbo I fully expect to see similar results, but with a 150-200 degree drop in EGT's and much more readily available power.
I agree, just not sure where to start. It has a new IPR, ICP, up pipes, 4/4 billet wheel. I have done boost leak test, couldn't identify any leaks. Does have all original boots, guess I could change them, but hate throwing money if not an issue. I can hit and sustain 26+PSI. The EBP sensor and tube are original, I can replace/clean. I am working with Gearhead to update my tow/economy tune and add a heavy tow tune. Thoughts? Thanks again for all the input.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 06:34 AM
  #32  
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26 PSI boost and a 80 HP tune on a stock turbo with 10K behind you? I see the issues. 1. Your stock turbo is choking you - too much EBP/MAP differential. I'd bet you can get up that hill faster in a stock tune than you can in the 80 HP tune because of EGTs - at least you can keep it in third with the TC locked.

2. Oh.. let's go there. The TC doesn't lock in second. I'll say that again - the TC doesn't lock in second... so it's slipping all the way up the hill. Slipping makes transmission heat - a lot of it.

3. Your 80 HP tune (which the stock injectors are only good for about a 60-65 HP tune) is a fire breathing dragon, running amok under the hood while you tow. You downshift to ease up on EGTs, and proceed to cook the tranny. 80 HP tunes almost always kill ICP... and I can write a novella on the perils of this - complete with artwork. Oh wait... I did: [LINK].
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 09:11 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
26 PSI boost and a 80 HP tune on a stock turbo with 10K behind you? I see the issues. 1. Your stock turbo is choking you - too much EBP/MAP differential. I'd bet you can get up that hill faster in a stock tune than you can in the 80 HP tune because of EGTs - at least you can keep it in third with the TC locked.

2. Oh.. let's go there. The TC doesn't lock in second. I'll say that again - the TC doesn't lock in second... so it's slipping all the way up the hill. Slipping makes transmission heat - a lot of it.

3. Your 80 HP tune (which the stock injectors are only good for about a 60-65 HP tune) is a fire breathing dragon, running amok under the hood while you tow. You downshift to ease up on EGTs, and proceed to cook the tranny. 80 HP tunes almost always kill ICP... and I can write a novella on the perils of this - complete with artwork. Oh wait... I did: [[URL="https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1470076-pid-3d-episode-7-stinky-spike.html"]LINK].
Tugly you nailed it, it is the combination of not being able to stay in third and not being able to keep the TC locked. With all this information, I am hoping a heavy tune from Matt will fix this situation, thanks everyone.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 03:42 PM
  #34  
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cleatus12r

you got any F81F-12A650-BF
 
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