Thanks guys, that is what I needed. I guess I never thought I needed a heavy tow tune, but that sounds like what I need. What about my high tranny temps. I get a full service on my transmission every year and the fluid is always clean and no issues.

 

My 6.0 cooler keeps my temps in check like everybody else in this thread. Is there a restriction in the return line? Maybe a hose kinked?

 

Thanks again guys, this forum has always been very helpful. I wish I could get some Cody tunes, Tugly you know the terrain I am towing in, I had a thread awhile back and discussed going to Yakima and then on to George, WA. Then down in southern Oregon into Redding, those are some climbs. I tow all around Oregon, Washington and into Idaho and Montana hunting and need to do something different with my tunes. Cody, you on here? Would you be willing to help another brother? It seems what you have done for Tugly would be ideal for what I do as well, probably wishful thinking.


I will look for kinked or restricted tranny lines, thanks for the input.

 

If you have the 6.0 cooler, maybe your check valve at the trans isn't working right. It can be rebuilt. They sell kits. JW took mine out like he dose on all his builds. Not sure that's the answer, I'd rather have it in.

 

Why I won't tune it. You want more power than the efficiency of the engine can support. It doesn't matter who does the tuning for you, if you think you need more power, you're going to have high EGT. Use a lower power level calibration and you won't have EGT that is so unmanageable... But you also won't have the power you think you need to have.

 

I understand what you are saying, what I was trying to articulate and did so poorly is that I need something in the "sweet spot." I need something that will get me up the hills at a relatively decent speed, but won't skyrocket my EGT's I don't want to be the fastest, but there are times when I am going 25-30 MPH in 2nd gear(automatic) high RPM's to keep my EGT's down. I am hauling maybe 10,000lbs total, so not extreme weight. It just seems that I could/should have some more power than that, stay in 3rd gear but not have to worry about EGT's. I hope this helps, thanks again.

 

The truck alone is ~7800lbs. When I had my GN horsetrailer, I was 24k lbs in the mountains of west Montana to Spokane....barely 1250 EGT.

 

That is what I am trying to figure out, I am probably around 17,800lbs total so when I compare to others, my EGT's seem way too high.

 

My truck and RV weigh 16,500. My RV is a v-nose but unless you are towing a sail, it probably isn't any less aerodynamic than what I tow. Before my up-pipes started leaking, it was really tough to find a hill that I couldn't hold 60mph in 3rd gear. Driving from San Diego to Las Vegas in July, going up that last hill on I-15 before Vegas, it did start to get pretty hot and I had to back off some. But I generally don't really have to pay much attention to the gauge unless it's really steep or really hot outside.

Unless you are towing huge, or going up some really steep terrain, you shouldn't ever have to be in 2nd gear. It sounds to me like you have some pretty serious boost leaks in your system. Your truck should be able to handle the weight much better.

The only time I've ever had to drop out of 3rd gear is when the road is too narrow to support a higher speed - US441 through the Smoky Mountains comes to mind, if anyone is familiar with that road.

 

I have a 28 foot Desert Fox toyhauler, it is tall. I have had some fun trips going down I-84 what we call the gorge with wind and trailer sway. I know this is probably more of a factor than the weight I am pulling. I have since sold that trailer, for various reasons and picking up a new to me this weekend and will see if there is much difference. I will be towing through some decent passes, coming home from California border up I-5.

 

What size tires do you have?

 

I have 285/75/16 pickup has a level kit, nothing extreme.

 

I would agree. I towed our 30ft toyhauler fifthwheel from San Diego to Texas through Az up towards the 40 and hit some pretty good hills. I have 35s and stock gears and I had no problem running 40+ mphs in second gear and keeping EGTs below 1200 on the stock tune.

 

The only time I've done 40 in 2nd gear on any interstate is after my up-pipes started leaking.

 

Steelheader, I think you are beating your head against some steel trying to figure this out, when it is so simple that it is eluding you.

1. Get your truck to 100% via OBD testing (EBP, ICP, IPR, etc)
2. Stop any intake leaks (Filter box, intake tube)
3. Stop any exhaust leaks (up-pipes, manifold)
4. Stop any boost leaks (CAC boots, CAC pipes, vacuum hoses)
5. Upgrade components to fit your needs (turbo, injectors, air box)
6. Get the proper tunes from your tuner (tow, daily, heavy tow)
7. Run the proper tune when performing the requested work from the truck

I have Dorman up-pipes, RiffRaff 4/4 billet turbo wheel, rebuilt 360 bearing stock turbo, RiffRaff CAC boots, AIS intake, RiffRaff plenum inserts, new EBP and ICP sensors, no vacuum leaks, no intake leaks, no exhaust leaks.

My truck has pulled a 10K lbs camper from GA to Seattle and back during July without any problems at all. I now pull a 12K lbs 5th wheel without any problems at all. When climbing a grade I put the transmission into 4th just as I am starting the climb and the boost quickly reaches ~28. The truck maintains speed at ~60-65 and I truck on. Sometimes I do not need to shift out of 5th if the hill is rolling enough.

On flat ground towing the 5th wheel I set the cruise at 65 and let it do its thing.

You are overthinking it my friend. Just because you select a tune that has more HP, does not mean it is the best tune for the job. I tow in a Gear Head heavy tow tune and let it roll. The EGT's do not get past 1000 degrees, even on a 7% grade.

When I upgrade to 160/80 injectors and a KC38R turbo I fully expect to see similar results, but with a 150-200 degree drop in EGT's and much more readily available power.