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I'm doing a stock long-block rebuild and documenting it here, in large part to help when I have to put everything back together. I hope to have the engine pulled by next weekend and then disassembled by early February. Got started on the removing the front end yesterday:
I'm not looking to add power, just create a reliable engine. Anything I should look out for? L&R said they would pressure test the injector cups. Should I just have them replaced anyway? I'm going to get bellowed up-pipes and a 6.0 trans cooler from RiffRaff.
Yes replace. This is because if they hot tank the heads, that compromises the seal. Guys have not done this and had problems down the line.
Also, can't you get a Ford reman for that with 3 year warranty? Unless your putting in some better parts, not oem, it's a thought.
Thanks. I had ruled out Ford reman, but I'm not sure why. Looks like it's only a few hundred more than the L&R rebuild. I'll go by the dealership tomorrow to get more info on the reman.
I've seen mixed opinions about forged rods in 2001. Seems that the manufacture cutoff date was 2000 but some 2001 got them. I'll definitely check when the engine is out and get it rebuilt if they're forged.
I believe all remans have forged rods. At least that is what has been said on here in the past. Get a price from Auto Nation Ford and have your dealer match it. Unless your building a HP motor I'd check ford out. Riffraff use to sell them on order, but I don't think he still dose. I know Dan got one from him in the pass.
There's an auto nation off central, in lake Elsinore.
. What about getting the kit from riffraff and have QnE in Placentia hone out the block and do the heads.. Talk to Mike
I should of told you, Sunrise Ford, parts Manager Jim Cockerham. 909-441-3940. I was a SoCaps member and they give 25% off ford parts including engines. He's close to you also. Just call parts tell them you are a member and see what happens. Use to be big in this area.
Also County Auto Machine in San Bernadino, 951-487-0917. They had a write up in Diesel Power with pictures. Don't remember who you said you would use. For the rebuild, could ask and time line.
AC guy came out yesterday. Charged me $100 to evacuate the system, flush the condenser, and replace the o-rings and in-line filter. I thought that was a fair price and it's much easier to work with the condenser out of the way.
I'm not sure whether most folks remove the hood latch before the cross member, but I did. I "keyed" the latch by drilling a hold on either side, that way it lines up in the original position when I reinstall.
The trans lines at the radiator and the clamp at the rear of the turbo are fighting me. I soaked them in penetrating oil over night. Hopefully they come off easier today.
I'll call some of these places this week for quotes. Thanks for the recommendations.
I had trouble with that turbo to collector (baby's butt) connection when I worked on mine. I pried and pried on the ends of the clamp the best I could in that most uncomfortable position and bent the clamp up to no avail. It got me pretty pissed off and I finally grabbed a long brass drift pin that I have and just beat on the side of the clamp using a regular claw hammer. Voila, it popped right off all the way around.
