I can't figure out how to edit my earlier post on expenses, so I'm reposting here. Might was well include it at the end anyway:

1. Transmission rebuild, Transpro: $1800
2. ARP Studs, RiffRaff: $0 [returned, reused bolts]
3. Long block rebuild, County Auto Machine: $3345
4. Forged rods: $796
5. Pioneer flywheel/flexplate: $61
6. Duralast EBP sensor: $56
7. Pioneer harmonic balancer: $112
8. Dorman EBP tube: $28
9. Rear oil seal installer tool rental: $130
10. Dorman Up-pipes: $140
11. Hard fuel lines and 2 HPOP fittings: $95.12
12. Long threaded HPOP plug: $31.12
13. Oil rail orings, HPOP ring kit, water pump oring: $54.55
14. Exhaust manifold bolts, AIH delete, plenum inserts: $102.64
15. Trans cooler lines: $45.27
16. Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel: $179
17. GTP38 360º Bearing Rebuild Kit: $59
18: Riffraff Diesel 6637 Filter Kit: $87
19. 6.0 Trans Cooler: $179.98
20. AC Accumulator: $30.44
21. UVC Harnesses: $113.70
22. Cooling fan clutch: $188.78
23. Radiator fan: $78.47
24. Gates belt: $42.88

Total: $7,757

This doesn't include odds and ends like fluids, misc fittings, etc. They probably add at least another $500. To be honest, the total is a lot higher than I expected going into this. All the stuff "around" the block adds up.

Speaking of expenses, I couldn't resist a new steering wheel. The old one was literally coming apart in my hands. I picked up a used one at a salvage yard and sent it to Bob at Race Enterprises for recovering: Race Enterprise ? Custom Wood and Leather Steering Wheels I think he did a great job for about $240:



Next spring/summer I'm going to install new HPOP lines and replace the EGT sensor (the one I ordered from Autozone either never came or I misplaced it). I made the mistake of looking around RiffRaff at injectors. It's awful tempting to put on some new "Full Force" injectors and a DP Tuner. Maybe next year, when the credit card is paid off.

Next up is to install some gauges to monitor the new engine.

 

steering wheel looks great. Good call. Glad it's running.

 

You will have problems with sensors that you buy from Autozone. It's just a matter of time.

Skip the DP tuner and get a Hydra. They are better in every way that matters.

 

Finally got around to installing gauges to monitor the rebuilt engine. On top I'm running egt, boost, engine coolant and engine oil:



Below trans temp:



The gauges confirmed what I suspected. I've got a boost leak. Normal everyday driving I rarely see above 3psi; once at wot I saw about 7. The torque app shows about "15psi" but I now realize that's just atmospheric pressure. I'm pretty sure it showed 15psi before the rebuild, so this is a long-standing problem.

EGT is normal, about 400-600 normal driving, occasionally 750. Exhaust back pressure is about the same as boost, so I was pretty sure I don't have a leak or blockage in the up-pipes.

Time to test for leaks. I set up a smoke tester first using a paint sprayer from Harbor Freight and a cotton rag soaked in baby oil and lit on fire:



An ABS end cap at the intake and the PCV hose blocked off:





I immediately saw smoke coming somewhere from the valley below the drivers-side IC pipe.

I disconnected the smoker (the smoke smelled deadly) and got out the spray bottle. I see leaks at the the spider-to-manifold boots and the IC boot at the spider.

Time to order all new boots and clamps from RiffRaff. I should have done this as part of the rebuild.

 

Rebuilt starter died over the weekend. Ugh, these 7.3s eat through starters. I think this is my third in less than 10 years. I needed the truck up and running quickly, so I got a Denso knockoff on Amazon. Hopefully it lasts a while. It sure spins up quick.

I didn't notice any soot on the up-pipes while I was underneath installing the starter. Next step on the low boost is to install the 3.25" IC boots and then pressure test again.

 

Mine has been working great for about 2 years now. I am mindful about how long I crank it.

 

If the knockoff spins anything like the genuine then you are right. I just installed a genuine Denso because I had the time to wait, unlike you. Here is a video of the result.

 

It has to be the builder. I have over 200K on my OEM starter and hadn't had a problem yet. Knock on wood.

 

Installed the IC boots last weekend. I had to cut down the 3.25" end about 1/2" in order to get the pipes to fit. Still showing about 3-4lbs boost at 2000rpm and about 9lbs max.

I took it into Diesel Tech in San Jacinto on Monday. It's been there all week. They still haven't figured out what's causing the low boost.

 

Diesel Tech diagnosed a faulty wastegate actuator. I tested it several months ago, but before I had replaced the boots. Early next year I'll replace the actuator, probably with a Turbosmart unit from RiffRaff.

 

thanks for sharing

 

Great build thread! Thanks for sharing!! If my 7.3 ever dies I will rebuild. So far though she has 211K miles and is going strong. I have never taken off a valve cover, nor really done anything to it other than the 6637 mod, big exhaust, and 6.0 Mishimoto tranny cooler, and maintenance.

 

Finally got some time to install the Turbosmart actuator from RiffRaff. I've seen some videos of guys installing the actuator with the turbo in the truck. I decided it wouldn't be any harder, and probably easier, to pull the turbo and do it on the bench, or the ground in my case.

I tested the original actuator first. My compressor only goes down to about 15psi with any accuracy, but the actuator was opening at that pressure.

Swapped on the new Turbosmart and tested it. I had to set the compressor around 30psi to get the actuator open and the clevis on the arm. I carefully measured the offset to 2mm with a digital calipers:




In the process of removing the turbo I broke the EBPV solenoid, but I did the delete years ago so I just left the connector dangling:



Took it for a drive and...didn't notice much of a difference. Driving around town and keeping the revs below 2500 I rarely see above 4lbs boost. Cruising at 70mph and about 2200 rpm, boost is about 2. The highest I saw was 14psi while flooring it on a gradual inclined on-ramp, which is better than the 9psi I saw on the same ramp before the new actuator.

I'm really not sure what boost should look like on a mostly stock turbo. I'm going to check for leaks again on the boots, but they're all new. I did notice a bit of soot on the back of the turbo where the up-pipes connect. I'm not sure how to definitively check for exhaust leaks.

Edit: looking at the pics I realize that the "soot" was actually around the actuator head, so it's unlikely indicative of an exhaust leak around the up-pipe connection.

I also replaced the wastegate actuator vacuum lines with new ones from RiffRaff.

 

Getting on it hard (e.g. freeway on-ramp) I can get to 24psi pretty easy then my OCR kicks in and bypasses the MAP so I don't know exactly where I top out at. I just installed gages so I'm going to dial my controller to max the boost out around 28psi since I have a (mostly) stock turbo.

 

Thanks. This is helpful, though I'm not sure what OCR stands for. I've seen people say stock boost maxes out around 15psi, others get in the 20s like you. I'm going to triple check for leaks at the boots and watch for movement at the wastegate actuator, just to make sure it's working. Then I guess I'll try a stethoscope at the turbo to see whether I can hear exhaust leaks. I'll probably end up taking it to Diesel Tech later this summer to have them inspect it. I don't want to do anymore mods until I know everything is working correctly.