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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Are Duraspark Modules rebuildable?

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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 07:40 PM
  #31  
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Not removing any potting, Just taking a new one module and drilling vent holes in two opposing sides, and air-through circulation with the fan.
What ya think?
Increase longevity?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 07:45 PM
  #32  
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It's poured full of goo.
There's nowhere for air to get through.

And ​​​​​​​you can't drill all the way through, too many components in the way.

If you have to replace it in 100,000 miles so what?
(that's like .five hundredths of a cent per mile)
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 07:49 PM
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Hmm In the link on the HEI mod into the Duraspark Box, He showed the original PC board out and the potting was only on the bottom, and the top was a bare PC board meaning an air space/air lock.....
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 07:51 PM
  #34  
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Anything is possible, but there is a reason they are hermetically sealed.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 08:02 PM
  #35  
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Yeh, to heat up, burn out and get you to buy a new one.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 04:33 AM
  #36  
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Electronic components fail all the time.
Just look at the capacitors in EEC computers.

That transistor is switching four times for every revolution of the crankshaft for *years*
That's 12,000 times a minute at 3,000 rpm
4,320,000 times just on your 6 hour drive home from York.....
In heat. In cold. Subject to vibration. It's pretty reliable.

You could always go back to points.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 07:21 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by reamer
Now is the "engine compartment" heat being conducted into the module doing damage? or is there heat being generated BY the electronics killing it.


Now apply a small 12v fan, being fed by an air duct from the grill area.
Theory is if the module is generating heat and the aluminum case is made airtight by the potting, Air circulation by the fan must dissipate ant heat.
The ghost of Rube Goldberg lives! I like your thinking. Even if you can't run air through the module, you could still cool the exterior.

A few thoughts with questionable value:

If concerned about ambient heat from engine compartment, how about relocating the module? Make an extension harness to plug into the existing connector halves. Mount the module in a cooler spot, such as inside the cabin. If you have AC and want to get really slick, use that cold air to your advantage. Mount a heat sink on the module and tap into an AC duct to blow cold air onto it. Or cut a square hole in the duct, and mount the module so the heat sink is inside the duct. You'd have to change your user name to FrostyDuraSpark.

If you'd rather not move the module, how about taking advantage of the cooler air on the underside of the fender liner? Attach a heat sink to the module and cut a hole through the fender liner so the heat sink sticks down into the wheel well.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 07:33 PM
  #38  
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How many people just Googled...... "Rube Goldberg" ?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kr98664
You'd have to change your user name to FrostyDuraSpark.
You have no idea how close I was to buying one of these 12 volt mini fridges for that exact purpose last year.
Guy had a used one for $20 bucks.

Coca Cola Personal Fridge | 12 Volt Portable Cooler | Personal Fridge
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kr98664
If you'd rather not move the module, how about taking advantage of the cooler air on the underside of the fender liner? Attach a heat sink to the module and cut a hole through the fender liner so the heat sink sticks down into the wheel well.
Unfortunately the potting is on the bottom and the heatsink (case) is on the top....
if you feel you have enough space at full bump, you could mount the module on the underside of the plastic inner fender.

I still think a proper piece of aluminum heat sink extrusion in intimate contact with the top of the case would make a difference in temps.
But probably not much in longevity.
 
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