Injection pump/timing question
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From: Geneva NY
Injection pump/timing question
Hey all, I just bumped my timing up a hair and noticed that it was retarded almost 1/4" according to the factory static lines, is this any cause for concern or does a correctly timed pump sometimes need to be retarded that much? I'm wondering if someone didn't just toss a pump on and since it ran they figured it was good enough. The reason I decided to try bumping it up is its a little hard starting and seems peppier with the cold advance on.
I also noticed I only have two nuts holding my IP on, is the bottom passenger side the one everyone says is a pain to get to (because that's the one missing)? What size is the thread? Since the nuts are 9/16 is it just standard 3/8 coarse thread? I'd like to put a nut back on it for piece of mind.
Thanks guys!
I also noticed I only have two nuts holding my IP on, is the bottom passenger side the one everyone says is a pain to get to (because that's the one missing)? What size is the thread? Since the nuts are 9/16 is it just standard 3/8 coarse thread? I'd like to put a nut back on it for piece of mind.
Thanks guys!
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Hey all, I just bumped my timing up a hair and noticed that it was retarded almost 1/4" according to the factory static lines, is this any cause for concern or does a correctly timed pump sometimes need to be retarded that much? I'm wondering if someone didn't just toss a pump on and since it ran they figured it was good enough. The reason I decided to try bumping it up is its a little hard starting and seems peppier with the cold advance on.
If you get /black/ smoke under full throttle, you are either correct or advanced.
You should be able to handle that bolt easily with a stubby 9/16 wrench.
Harbor freight's $10 set works great.
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From: Geneva NY
Just advance it slowly until you notice it having slightly less power than before, then back it back a hair. You'll feel the changes(and hear them) - if you are too advanced, it'll clatter a lot as you are driving down the road. If you are too retarded, it'll sound like a gasser under load(no clatter at all), and probably smoke white/gray at full throttle.
If you get /black/ smoke under full throttle, you are either correct or advanced.
If you get /black/ smoke under full throttle, you are either correct or advanced.
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Thank you. I don't have any smoke at all except when idling or starting. From what I've heard it should clatter a little more from the cold advance when properly timed but calm down when it kicks off right? It is no more clattery than it was before, I think I'll bump it up a hair more and see how it acts. Thanks!
Also, smoke:
On cold start, yes, you should probably see a puff or two of white/gray smoke. Should go away within 10 seconds(maby 30 if it's below freezing).
Other than that, you should see /nothing/. You might smell something from the tailpipe(not fully burned diesel), but not enough to see coming out.
If your truck is tuned right, once you floor it under load going up a hill, you should see a light haze of black smoke. Just a light haze at WOT, no more. If it's gray or white, you need more timing.
Also, every injection pump is slightly different as to where it should be mark-wise, and a worn injector pump can be all over the place.
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From: Geneva NY
I wouldn't call my morning start smoke a "puff" more like a "cloud" haha I need new batteries and she cranks slow (usually two tries) so I think that has something to do with my "cloud".
By "uphill under load" does that mean I need to be weighted down some or is the weight of a crew cab dually going up a steep grade probably sufficient for the test?
By "uphill under load" does that mean I need to be weighted down some or is the weight of a crew cab dually going up a steep grade probably sufficient for the test?
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My 7.3 IDI has become a hard start. She has newer batteries and new cable from starter all the way up to batteries. Has had glow plugs changed twice in the last 4 years. Is there a lift pump or something else like a fuel pump that I might need to check? She used to fire up after just one turnover but not anymore. She is blowing white smoke out after she starts. I am a female and need some help. Thanks
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From: Geneva NY
My 7.3 IDI has become a hard start. She has newer batteries and new cable from starter all the way up to batteries. Has had glow plugs changed twice in the last 4 years. Is there a lift pump or something else like a fuel pump that I might need to check? She used to fire up after just one turnover but not anymore. She is blowing white smoke out after she starts. I am a female and need some help. Thanks
Mine started HARD until we replaced the two battery GROUND cables. Remember that replacing the power cables won't help much if the grounds are bad.
EDIT: What brand glow plugs have been used? Apparently the only decent ones are the Motor craft ones. The auto lite plugs have been known to fail after only a few uses.
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Hotshot
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From: The Big, Oregon
One thing I have noticed is that the factory marks seem to be valid only for the original pump. My engines are both 88s but have the marks in slightly different spots. I believe rebuilt pumps have red paint on the screws.
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They are in different spots on the housing?
Interesting thought. Factory original pumps /didn't/ have red paint?
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So I have to ask, since it will be a while until I can get the timing set "correctly" with the proper tools, would it be safe to just line up the static timing marks for now? It seems like it should be fine to do as I have read multiple people saying that it will most likely need to be advanced from the static position anyways.
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From: NJ
Get a timing setup, there are a couple options out there and none are particularly expensive. I use a Ferret V765 and a dial back timing light. Ferret Instruments V765-02 Fuel Injection Tester - Fuel System Tools
It seems generally accepted optimal timing is between 6.5* and 9.5* at 2000 RPM. I went form 6.5*-9* and gained about 3 MPG and a bunch more low RPM torque. There are some dyno results that indicate toward the lower end is best for high RPM power and I believe Macrobb said the low load advance cam can be adjusted to maintain lower RPM torque.
It seems generally accepted optimal timing is between 6.5* and 9.5* at 2000 RPM. I went form 6.5*-9* and gained about 3 MPG and a bunch more low RPM torque. There are some dyno results that indicate toward the lower end is best for high RPM power and I believe Macrobb said the low load advance cam can be adjusted to maintain lower RPM torque.
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