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Brought a set of these hammerlocks. Same problem I have several trailers and also rent equipment, so changing the hooks is not really a practical option.
There are painted black already and were much more affordable to try out... Yes I know they are made overseas, but at least they are a made by a known brand, Peerless.
I'll post a pic when they arrive and they are on the truck.
I'm sure the chains are rated for a LOT less than any of the attachment methods talked about here. (Hammerlocks, clevises, etc.) A 3/8" transport grade chain (G70) is only rated for 6600#WLL. 1/2" G70=11,300.
I'm sure the chains are rated for a LOT less than any of the attachment methods talked about here. (Hammerlocks, clevises, etc.) A 3/8" transport grade chain (G70) is only rated for 6600#WLL. 1/2" G70=11,300.
Thanks!!! I didn't know that.
Also...... I guess grade 80 is more that sufficient considering they are 12,000 and you have 2 (2*12000# = 24,000#)........ especially considering the chain specs.
I'm not a load geek ...... just reading and doing math and asking questions.
Been a long time some my engineering days, but my exp with working load is that its 25% of the max load. So a 12k WL will give a 48,000 point of failure load. BIG margin of safety.
That said times MAY have changed and that standard may no longer be...???
I have the same ones but I haven't had the time to install them yet
How or what did you used to push the center pin?
I used a hammer and the side of a wedge (for splitting trees) on the other side. Any piece a metal with a large mass will work. A couple whacks with the hammer while holding the wedge against the other side and the pins just slide in.
Honestly I just grabbed the first thing I saw that looked like it would work. Could also use two hammers, the bigger one just hold still against the back and tap in the pins with the smaller one.
Might want to add a good anti-seize to the pin. Thinking rust could be an issue./QUOTE]
I don't think rust will be an issue when you need to get them back open. I used to work on a fishing dragger and we used those to hook the doors to the net with them along with many other uses where shackles (clevis hooks to some) were useless.
Having them in the ocean didn't make them rust locked so I would think they wold be OK for an occasional dunking with road salt.
They don't seize up if you're using them in the ocean, but let them sit
on land for a month or more and they'll seize up tighter than a gnat's
rear end. I've had to torch my fair share of them in the past. I would
definately use never seize on them if you're not taking them off regularly.
So does anyone have a link to a known working Clevis hook (dont want to do D-hooks, Carbiners, or Hammerlocks if I can avoid it). Found these from Curt...think they would work?
So does anyone have a link to a known working Clevis hook (dont want to do D-hooks, Carbiners, or Hammerlocks if I can avoid it). Found these from Curt...think they would work?
Good go IMO, I would REPLACE the cotter pins with SS grade, then do a double fold back after the pin is inserted.
I hooked up one of my trailers couple of days ago and wonder about this thread. I have 4 trailers:
M101 Canadian Army ¼ T Jeep trailer
LIGHT utility trailer, 750 lbs
6x8 1000 lb
18 ft 10,000 lb
Everyone of those trailers the hooks fit on my F 350 max tow package and the hooks are the ones that came with them.
How would one determine what strength your hooks or connectors should be? I would not think it should be the full weight of the trailer being pulled. You are never going to hang the full weight of the trailer on the safety chains. I would think that the hitch weight and whatever it would take (pulling power) to tow the trailer would be sufficient. Is their a graph provided by the DOT to use as a guideline?
I have been towing many many years up to 15,000 pounds and lighter and always just use the chains on the trailers and the hookup rings on the trucks. Withe the new Ford truck "slots" one is rather limited to which application can be used for the actual chain attachment to the truck.
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