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Safety Chain Hookup

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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 09:22 AM
  #181  
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I also reto-fitted my boat and utility trailer with 3/8" hooks which fit fine on on my 2.5" hitch.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 12:17 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by Roly Poly
Brought a set of these hammerlocks. Same problem I have several trailers and also rent equipment, so changing the hooks is not really a practical option.

There are painted black already and were much more affordable to try out... Yes I know they are made overseas, but at least they are a made by a known brand, Peerless.

I'll post a pic when they arrive and they are on the truck.

https://www.autohaulersupply.com/cat...n=SP-5853380SP
The hammerlocks in the link above and others pictured in this thread are grade 80 and have WWL = 12,000.

Pretty huge..... but ...... in a discussion linked here our class V hitches are rated at 2.5" = 20,000 and 3" = 25,000.

This may be the reason for the hunk of beef that some are having problems attaching chains to.

Wouldn't it make more sense to be using these grade 100: https://www.autohaulersupply.com/cat...rlock-5477.php ???

I'm not a load geek ...... just reading and doing math and asking questions.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 12:40 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by Roly Poly
Hammerlocks installed. They already came painted black. No more fighting with the safety chain hooks.





I have the same ones but I haven't had the time to install them yet
How or what did you used to push the center pin?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 01:01 PM
  #184  
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I'm sure the chains are rated for a LOT less than any of the attachment methods talked about here. (Hammerlocks, clevises, etc.) A 3/8" transport grade chain (G70) is only rated for 6600#WLL. 1/2" G70=11,300.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 02:00 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Tom N OH
I'm sure the chains are rated for a LOT less than any of the attachment methods talked about here. (Hammerlocks, clevises, etc.) A 3/8" transport grade chain (G70) is only rated for 6600#WLL. 1/2" G70=11,300.
Thanks!!! I didn't know that.

Also...... I guess grade 80 is more that sufficient considering they are 12,000 and you have 2 (2*12000# = 24,000#)........ especially considering the chain specs.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 05:55 AM
  #186  
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5/8" D-rings with safety wire worked for me.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 07:04 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by duckduke
The hammerlocks in the link above and others pictured in this thread are grade 80 and have WWL = 12,000.

Pretty huge..... but ...... in a discussion linked here our class V hitches are rated at 2.5" = 20,000 and 3" = 25,000.

This may be the reason for the hunk of beef that some are having problems attaching chains to.

Wouldn't it make more sense to be using these grade 100: https://www.autohaulersupply.com/cat...rlock-5477.php ???

I'm not a load geek ...... just reading and doing math and asking questions.
Been a long time some my engineering days, but my exp with working load is that its 25% of the max load. So a 12k WL will give a 48,000 point of failure load. BIG margin of safety.

That said times MAY have changed and that standard may no longer be...???
 
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 08:59 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by Robeleo
I have the same ones but I haven't had the time to install them yet
How or what did you used to push the center pin?

I used a hammer and the side of a wedge (for splitting trees) on the other side. Any piece a metal with a large mass will work. A couple whacks with the hammer while holding the wedge against the other side and the pins just slide in.

Honestly I just grabbed the first thing I saw that looked like it would work. Could also use two hammers, the bigger one just hold still against the back and tap in the pins with the smaller one.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 10:16 AM
  #189  
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[QUOTE=archer3;16861467]
Originally Posted by biz4two
Might want to add a good anti-seize to the pin. Thinking rust could be an issue./QUOTE]
I don't think rust will be an issue when you need to get them back open. I used to work on a fishing dragger and we used those to hook the doors to the net with them along with many other uses where shackles (clevis hooks to some) were useless.
Having them in the ocean didn't make them rust locked so I would think they wold be OK for an occasional dunking with road salt.
They don't seize up if you're using them in the ocean, but let them sit
on land for a month or more and they'll seize up tighter than a gnat's
rear end. I've had to torch my fair share of them in the past. I would
definately use never seize on them if you're not taking them off regularly.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 09:12 AM
  #190  
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 09:33 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by shortride
I also a set of these but I don't like having to use a hammer and drive pin to open them.
I think that's the way to do it, I seen many videos doing it
My question was more about that it's in the air and you don't have the floor as a backing
 
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 08:10 AM
  #192  
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So does anyone have a link to a known working Clevis hook (dont want to do D-hooks, Carbiners, or Hammerlocks if I can avoid it). Found these from Curt...think they would work?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 08:28 AM
  #193  
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The 3/8" hooks on my trailer work fine on my F-350.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 08:49 AM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by 54LFL
So does anyone have a link to a known working Clevis hook (dont want to do D-hooks, Carbiners, or Hammerlocks if I can avoid it). Found these from Curt...think they would work?
Good go IMO, I would REPLACE the cotter pins with SS grade, then do a double fold back after the pin is inserted.

I hooked up one of my trailers couple of days ago and wonder about this thread. I have 4 trailers:

M101 Canadian Army ¼ T Jeep trailer

LIGHT utility trailer, 750 lbs

6x8 1000 lb

18 ft 10,000 lb

Everyone of those trailers the hooks fit on my F 350 max tow package and the hooks are the ones that came with them.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 10:32 AM
  #195  
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How would one determine what strength your hooks or connectors should be? I would not think it should be the full weight of the trailer being pulled. You are never going to hang the full weight of the trailer on the safety chains. I would think that the hitch weight and whatever it would take (pulling power) to tow the trailer would be sufficient. Is their a graph provided by the DOT to use as a guideline?

I have been towing many many years up to 15,000 pounds and lighter and always just use the chains on the trailers and the hookup rings on the trucks. Withe the new Ford truck "slots" one is rather limited to which application can be used for the actual chain attachment to the truck.

Jack
 
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