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Jace...I believe you are incorrect. That is the exact opening that everyone IS having trouble fitting their existing hooks in. At least that what I understood from the previous posts. It's not the size of the hole in question...it is due to the angles and double width of the hook holders. The snap can't come back under and close. See the pics in the beginning of this thread. The 2011 - 16 were a single piece of thin steel that worked GREAT. The new ones...not so much. Someone please correct me if i'm wrong.
Yes the 11-16 had a single piece of thin steel but those weren't rated at 10 tons as I mentioned earlier. Liability reason forced them to increase the meat on these. A 20,000 lb bumper pull could potentially rip out the thin metal. These are built to handle the load worst case. Yes they are a pain but it is what it is.
Yeah...they increased the meat but made it unusable for 80% of people's existing hooks????? They easily could have increase the rating without making it TOO wide to fit and already beefy trailer hook.
Will the entire hook fit through and hook back to itself? The one in the pic I sent with the blue powder coated hitch on the 350 I put my whole hand in, I would think the hook would go completely through it but maybe not. What a pain if that's the case but why not use a clevis back on your chain about 8" and then just pull your chain through the hitch and hook it back to itself? I'm sure just the chain would go through right?
Will the entire hook fit through and hook back to itself? The one in the pic I sent with the blue powder coated hitch on the 350 I put my whole hand in, I would think the hook would go completely through it but maybe not. What a pain if that's the case but why not use a clevis back on your chain about 8" and then just pull your chain through the hitch and hook it back to itself? I'm sure just the chain would go through right?
I've been wondering about this myself.
Back when I hauled equipment (decades ago) I was taught that the proper way to tie down with chain was to loop through and attach the hook to the chain. Mind you, the chain was then under tension, so it isn't the same as trailer safety chain setup.
But I wonder if this is the design parameter for this hitch.
I've NEVER had a trailer come uncoupled and I understand all the aspects of the safety chain holding the weight of what you are towing but there's gotta be a simple solution. That giant "Made in China" looking hook in the one pic should be thrown away anyhow! Lol This set up looks much better and it's on a 17 SD
Ideally you want the hook to hook onto the receiver hitch and I think with a quality hook it will work! The problem most trailers have some "China" made hook with tons of extra meat and half the rating like most other China crap.
What is the second plug plugged in in the pic? Is it the rear trailer camera?? Looks like it is in the position of the 4 plug connector on the back of my bumper w/o the external camera.
Technically your chains are hooked up backwards, I have always been taught to hook the the openings up, or facing the trailer, if the tongue drops they will hold the tongue if crossed, and the weight will rotate the hook into their throat. your way it rotates the hooks onto the saftey lock which could break.
Technically your chains are hooked up backwards, I have always been taught to hook the the openings up, or facing the trailer, if the tongue drops they will hold the tongue if crossed, and the weight will rotate the hook into their throat. your way it rotates the hooks onto the saftey lock which could break.
That pic is from FORD MOTOR CO. have to tell them that. Notice the "manufacturer" plate. That's one of their rigs hooked to a trailer. Nice observation though.
No worries. I wish though! My truck did hit the dealer Thursday in Oklahoma (I'm 3 hours north of you) so I've gotta book a flight to go get it ASAP! Yay road trip! Lol
To the other posters: Concur, shackles are snug, not cranked down, thus the use of safety wire or UV resist nylon ties, but this does require that you INSPECT at every hitch and replace annually!
Kudos Don. Like I said before, has to be a simple solution. I use those in your pic every off-road jeep trip we do while winching or turning someone's rig back over. We don't use the safety wire but it's usually for a quick recovery then back on with the trail. I can see where you would want that safety tie in there if using over a road trip or a longer period of time to ensure it didn't come loose. I understand the issue but it's not as big a deal to me as what everyone makes it out to be. We may have to change our hooks on some of our trailers, not a huge deal but I get it, everyone wants a plug n play application. With Ford increasing the towing capacity on this hitch a guy almost had to expect a stronger safety chain hookup though right? $15 at your local hardware store buying quality parts should solve the problem. That's my take on it. I'd rather do that than grind or cut the holes on my truck. Something about the thought of sparks flying while I'm cutting on my brand new truck just makes me cringe! I gotta figure another way!
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