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Check your receipt on that Alt -- I blew past that, but if you had asked for the top Alt of a two Alt set-up, it would be a 140A, a stock single Alt was just 110A, but there was a factory upgrade to the 140 (which we did, since we ordered our truck). You hot wire out of the Alt is in a different position than my 140A, so you may have gotten the 110A, unfortunately. I believe 140A is the minimum these trucks should have. Ford changed to the 140 as stock "small" Alt in '08, btw...
OK got it. That was way harder than it should've been. Too much work not enough play. After I get the custom PIDs made I will do another test run to verify.
Gonna go sit in my truck with the heat on and plot my gauges.
Probably too late by the time you read this: I found the square gauge with the sweep line indicator and the digital readout, plus captured min/max at the bottom to be my favorite gauge.
When you change screens in Torque it will stop updating the gauges on the other screen, i.e.: it is only updating the screen you have up. You can set up a gauge set for logging data which, once you start it, is great for all those other gauges on other screens, or say if you are chasing a particular problem.
You can also set alarms on these gauges...
btw, I thought your Note 7 comment was pretty funny
I like those gauges the most too. Especially on a cold start. Thanks for the tips again. I will look into getting a bigger alt. It has been fine so far and I don't run many accessories.
Note 7, best emerg block heater 2016. Only thing that sucks is it is single use.
I did some cabling upgrades on my Alt and between batts that had impressive results, thanks to a guy on here that goes to beyond the beyond looking for answers to our truck's problems. His name is Jack or TooManyToys -- if you look at his battery cable upgrade thread in the tech section, well let's just say it is quite an education.
So besides the bigger Alt, you can put on an overdrive pulley that helps mainly at idle or lower rpm. Depending on your budget, you could also consider a really nice alternator from Leece Neville - most choose their 230A.
Jack and some others here are chasing down changing our starters for either a 6.4 one or 6.7, so stay tuned -- it may really help with the critical voltage drops we see on cold starts.
btw: there is a cool transmission pan/filter update that is cheap and easy, to the 6.4 pan and filter. You go from only filtering a potential max of 10% of the trans fluid (and that is only if the trans is warm enough), to 100% filtration whenever the truck is running. Maybe I already mentioned that....
I had watched the video. And just to get it in the open, I HATE WIRING, but I considered the Leece Neville you spoke of. That starter swap would be great for me, especially up here in ND.
Worth doing a transmission flush then swapping to the 6.4 pan?
Also coolant heater, headache? Worth it for extreme cold?
I had watched the video. And just to get it in the open, I HATE WIRING, but I considered the Leece Neville you spoke of. That starter swap would be great for me, especially up here in ND.
Worth doing a transmission flush then swapping to the 6.4 pan?
Also coolant heater, headache? Worth it for extreme cold?
Q #1: in my opinion, if the trans has had decent maintenance, I think the flush is over kill - these transmissions are one of the best out there and one of the strongest parts of the truck; so do you know the truck's history or trans services you have done (and what the fluid looked like)? Or what is the fluid like now? The only kind of flush that is relevant for our transmissions is a Heated Flush, while lots of shops say: sure we do that, they likely don't, so you aren't getting a full flush anyway.
Q #2: Are talking about adding a block heater? or additional coolant heating to that? You might have a block heater and just need to find the cord. I'll go fetch a link to an add-on oil heater -- if I was going to heat something it'd be that...
A #1: I took a sample about 10 months ago, fluid looked red and healthy, no particulates. She got regular servicing and had never been in an accident (until I bumped into a minivan). Had new injectors 3 years ago.
A #2: I use the block heater. A coolant heater, pumps the coolant, heats it. Cold winter day, get in your truck and its already got hot air. Oil pan heater was another consideration of mine over the coolant heater.
Ahhhh, the orange pads, I have seen those before. I don't know how I feel about them having to be on the outside of the pan.
So, we know you need a coolant thermostat -- if you've considered adding a coolant filter you could do that now since you have to drain down the coolant some anyway for either.
Based on your trans history, I'd just do the pan/filter update and 9qts of Mercon LV back in. Part numbers are: Pan: 8C3Z-7A194-B, and Filter: 8C3Z-7A098-D. You can continue using or ditch the front filter after you do this (as in take the filter out and just put an o-ring on and close it up forevermore, or just leave whatever is there, there -- it is a bypass filter).
Based on your temps even with a bad stat, you might be looking at an oil cooler replacement. So let's get the stat in there 1st and re-check, because if it needs an oil cooler you'll be flushing the cooling system too...
Ok, did my thermostat today and took her out on the highway after a brief warmup and leak check period here the numbers I have now with an ambient temp of 48F
Coolant: Maxed @ 192.2F, would flux down to 188.4F.
Oil: Maxed @ 208.4F and settled back down to 193F while on idle cooldown.
I'm thinking oil cooler, next?
Any recommendation for brakes? Looking at Powerstop or EBC.
Use the toque pro that texastech suggested. Go on Amazon or eBay and an obd11 Bluetooth / wireless adapter this is the one I use but there are plenty more. Around $20.00 to $30.00
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.