I have a double din JVC installed. No touch screen. Just a radio with bluetooth. Thanks for the buying tip.ll get underhoods and underbody pics tomorrow. I know I gotta do leafs, shocks and bushings. Started browsing the tech thread. Gonna be in those more at work tomorrow.

 

I'm happy with the bilstien 5100 I installed. They also rated for up to 2.5" leveling kit, which I also installed.

 

Ok ladies and gentlemen. I got my reader today and was absolutely tickled with the information I had at my finger tips. Now, what kind of gauges should be choosing? other than coolant temp, boost and revs.

 

scangauge?

EOT and ECT a must. I cycle the other two kind of at random. ICP/IPR fairly often, will look at system volts and FICM power volts, fan speed (mainly when towing), boost (I have a factory gauge though). I try to at least get a mental baseline of most readings under normal operation. The DTC counter helped flag me to a recent ICP sensor issue (so did the default 875 psi and 33% IPR at idle).

​​​​​​​See what works for you. It's a nice tool to have.

 

As someone suggested, underhoods and some undercarriage pics.

 

Looks like an aftermarket Oil Filter cap -- that and a stock oil filter = NO oil filtering, get an OEM cap and filter on there ASAP. Also see your degas has puked a little - check level 1st (at min line as Maximum on level ground when cool), could be the cap they do go and are inexpensive to replace, but it could be sign of other issues...

Alt looks pretty new btw, somebody else may be able to tell what it is just from the pict...

 

I am actually slightly confused on the oil filter situation, that one is a single unit, the cap gets thrown away with the filter. Should I use the OEM style over that? I've been watching the coolant level very carefully but also haven't replaced the cap because I don't know who makes a good cap. Alternator died last winter, R2 it and haven't had any codes pop since then. Btw, been using the reader and the app. Only code I have is the cruise control lamp inop, which i already knew about, CC still works, just no light.

Also the cap puking could be due to something EGR related? or worse...heads?

Trying to source an air filter that works with OEM, any suggestions?

 

Could be HGs, but that looks pretty minor. Just get a Ford degas cap and while you are at the dealer get the OEM Oil Filter cap. You can get the motorcraft oil filter there or at WallyWorld for less, but it is Ford filter + Ford cap and pretty much nothing else. There are YouTube vids about the oil filters, so that is pretty much the mantra around here.

Let's get a differential reading on your oil to coolant to see how the oil cooler is: warm it up good and then out on a flat stretch of highway 60 - 65 but try to stay as constant speed/throttle as you can. Give it 15 minutes, more if oil temp is still rising. Tell us what the highest difference is between oil and coolant and also what steady state temps of both were (this is also a check for your thermostat health: should be high 180s to low 190s Minimum).

You'll also want to check your oil and coolant temps after a good cold soak - some say 12 hours is good, I think 24 unless it is pretty cold where you are. This is important as it affects the above test if the sensors themselves are off.

You should be monitoring your voltages: FICM Main, Logic, and Power, and every batt voltage you find: Vbatt, Adapter Volts and there is one more. You want to look at these on cold start and steady state.

What Alternator did you put on?

Did you end up with Torque Pro, or?? If Torque there are some gauges I can give you...

You can check your EGR cooler by parking nose down over night and pulling the EGR valve (you should clean it anyway), look at valve and in the port it goes: valve if it looks "steam cleaned" and in the intake for moisture/coolant. Your '04 likely has the round style EGR cooler and they aren't nearly as problematic as the later square ones.

Scott

 

Missed the air filter Q: that is a stock one you have and you want to stay that way (filter and housing are one unit). You can order filters all over including the places Bryan pointed you to. Also you can try FICMRepair.com for OEM parts and dieselfiltersonline is popular here (they stock the OEM, non-ford parts too as I recall), here:

https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/...l_truck_parts/

 

Due for an oil change soon anyway before winter hits. Will go full OEM from now on. Will replace the fuel filters as well.

I put the truck through a short highway trip when I first got the adapter. It was a cold night (25-30degrees) and coolant temp was hovering low 180s. Couldn't read oil temp either I didn't put a gauge up for it or it wasn't avail.

I do have the CM Volts gauge up. Assuming that is FICM V.

It was a Napa Alt. I made sure it was one made for a single alt system.

Ended up using Torque Pro. Would appreciate the gauges.

I planned on pulling the EGR valve anyway to clean it. So I will have a look at all that additional stuff as well.

 

Randy,
Forgot: your air filter has a filter minder on it, that tells you when the filter is clogging -- are you just wanting to put a new one on or was the question aimed at finding an aftermarket one? The stock filter draws cold air already, is made with a moisture block on the fabric (Donaldson is OEM I believe) and is good for up to 500 HP -- no need to change to something else unless you are going to push the power limits.

And I forgot to say max differential coolant to oil temp is 15 degrees on that test, but really you want it below 10, and I forgot to say truck should be unloaded for the test...

Scott

 

Aware of the air filter minder, feels like its time since I've had the truck a while and its seen some dirt roads. Was just looking for an new filter, didn't know if there were any better ones than the OEM for stock power.

Hit the highway and the highest coolant temp I could get was 176, with an ambient temp of 41, would drop to 174 and bounced between those two numbers while going 70mph . Oddly enough the oil temp on Torque Pro isn't available for me, it isn't greened up.

 

180, if that is as warm as it will get, is too low, so verify that is where it is settling out and add a stat to your list if it isn't hitting closer to 190+

When you set your Torque up did you 1st load the Ford pre defined PID set (under Set Up)? If not do that 1st... Because many of your gauges will come from there...

I'll go find a link to the other gauges while you do that...

 

Here is a thread that I think has most of them, but FIRST go into settings and Manage Extra PIDs (or something like that) and select load Ford PID set, including 6.0.

If you create or edit gauges and EVER go re-load the pre-defined set, it will overwrite everything you've done. Don't ask me how I found out

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ew-gauges.html

 

OK got it. That was way harder than it should've been. Too much work not enough play. After I get the custom PIDs made I will do another test run to verify.

Gonna go sit in my truck with the heat on and plot my gauges.