When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well I have been putting this off for a while, but I have an oil leak which started about 2 years ago with maybe a couple of drips on the pavement if I parked there, but now up to maybe a couple of tablespoons. It appeared to be coming down the valley and they running over the bell housing and trans. So I tried every light and mirror trick I could think of to see where it was coming from, cleaning the valley with simple green and pressure hosing it off, but I can’t tell. If I had to guess, then my guess was it was from the back of the HPOP. Finally I gave up and took it into Ford. They just called and said it was the HPOP, it was not repairable, and the cost to replace was $2,089 plus tax! Being old and tired, I’m not sure I have the ability anymore to repair this myself. “Non-repairable”? I have read that is is somewhat common to get leaks on the fittings to the back of the HPOP and I never heard of one not repairable.
I used to tear gas engines apart and put them back together on a regular basis in my 20’s, but that was 50 years ago. I have pretty much a full set of tools and a great big garage to work in. So I am looking for some guidance on how to remove the HPOP, and where to look for leaks when I do. And finally, the cost of a new or rebuild HPOP if I can't find the leak. Any suggestions?
I did my HPOP a few months ago. The HPOP seals up to the reservoir with a big rubber seal that covers the whole front. It's possible that it's just old and needs replaced. If you have a scanning unit (forscan lite and a bluetooth adapter work great) check IPR duty cycles and see if the pump really is bad. If it is plan on a 5ish hour job (me being VERY slow and careful doing it the first time). A new HPOP ranges from $500 up, the seal is about $19. Look up some videos on youtube of how to replace them, there are also some good threads on how to do this. REMOVE THE FUEL BOWL and don't cut corners! I tried without and I had about 10qts of oil on my shop floor.
Also check turbo and turbo pedistal o-rings (Search for other write-up/videos) . My were shot when I replaced my Turbo, I too thought it was my HPOP.
Here is a birds eye view of the HPOP with the fuel bowl removed:
More than likely it's the "non-serviceable" plug on the HPOP or the Ford dealer isn't interested in fixing the leak unless they can sell you expensive stuff.
If it's the so called non-serviceable plug, you can guy the parts and download the instructions to change it here.
But, FWIW, if you do it yourself you can save $1.000.
Perhaps there is a crack or other anomaly which causes them to say it's non-repairable.
I know when I was doing service work up until last April we would re-seal them to include the "non-serviceable plug". With exception of the Socket for the IPR and the Hose Connections (which are easier with a special tool), they can be done with a screwdriver tip and some patients, and some Ford Sealant for the front cover. Last time I checked they were something like $800 or so for a new one + connections (which didn't come with the pump).
Heck, They may not even have new ones now. Someone said they're charging Core Fee's for IPR's now ????
I don't recall the Labor Hours but assume it's something like 4 hrs. to R/R + the Pump + the Gasket + Shop Fee + Diagnostic Fee which all adds up quickly.
I guess the only real way to know is to get it back and see for yourself.
If you've got a "decent" Tech, ask him what the specific issue is. I always told people when asked. I even told regular customers to by-pass the Service Writer and Manager and ask for me directly.
Good info guys! Guess I'll get the truck back from Ford and then jump into it next week. Any more "tips, tricks or traps" would be appreciated. Thanks to all.
I was Gon a say for 2,000 you can buy a HPOP and save about 1,300. But I would definitely ask them what is wrong with it that makes it non repairable. I don't go to my local dealership they are about as shady as it gets.
They tried to charge my dad to put on a new belt when his water pump went out under warranty they called and said his belt was a little worn so he told them to go ahead and replace it so they charged him for the belt with was fine but then tried to charge him another $50 for installing it wich has to be taken off anyways when they did the warranty replacement on the water pump. With some arguing they took off the installation fee.
Good info guys! Guess I'll get the truck back from Ford and then jump into it next week. Any more "tips, tricks or traps" would be appreciated. Thanks to all.
Buy an HPOP line removal tool (or make your own) it makes it much easier to remove the lines. Speaking of lines you should probably replace the lines while you have it all opened up... Also plan on buying a fuel line Rubber seal kit ($11 from Ford in stock) because as soon as I played with mine I developed a severe (vally full o' diesel in a half hour) leak. Those are probably pretty torn up anyway. Also don't try to do the job without taking off intercooler lines + you pipe. Whenever I do anything more major then an oil change or fuel filter, I always take those three out, it helps to not need to be so cramped.
Also: If you don't have a system for a topside creeper you should. I take my old plywood creeper and throw some ratcheting straps across it and secure it to the legs of an engine hoist. That allows me to lay down over the engine (I did an injector job on a step ladder and a 2 X 2 across the engine - no fun) it is way easier on your back and knees and gives you way more patience when dealing with fiddly things.
I think mechanical devices are all remanufactured units. My last HPOP (years ago) was remanufactured.
Originally Posted by dlragalie
Buy an HPOP line removal tool (or make your own) it makes it much easier to remove the lines. Speaking of lines you should probably replace the lines while you have it all opened up... Also plan on buying a fuel line Rubber seal kit ($11 from Ford in stock) because as soon as I played with mine I developed a severe (vally full o' diesel in a half hour) leak. Those are probably pretty torn up anyway. Also don't try to do the job without taking off intercooler lines + you pipe. Whenever I do anything more major then an oil change or fuel filter, I always take those three out, it helps to not need to be so cramped.
Also: If you don't have a system for a topside creeper you should. I take my old plywood creeper and throw some ratcheting straps across it and secure it to the legs of an engine hoist. That allows me to lay down over the engine (I did an injector job on a step ladder and a 2 X 2 across the engine - no fun) it is way easier on your back and knees and gives you way more patience when dealing with fiddly things.
That's my $.02 on doing HPOPs
Riffraff Diesel has a great HPOP tool for removing the lines. Also, I always replace the Parker sleeves for the fuel bowl connections when I remove them. They are always shot when you take those connections off. It's only a few dollars anyway.
If you've got a "decent" Tech, ask him what the specific issue is. I always told people when asked. I even told regular customers to by-pass the Service Writer and Manager and ask for me directly.
I asked the service rep exactly why was the pump not repairable. He asked the tech and was told there were two leaks, one on the top plate? which could be repaired with a new gasket and the other was the non-servicable plug at the bottom of the pump. So not I need to figure out what the top plate is.
I asked the service rep exactly why was the pump not repairable. He asked the tech and was told there were two leaks, one on the top plate? which could be repaired with a new gasket and the other was the non-servicable plug at the bottom of the pump. So not I need to figure out what the top plate is.
Not sure what the top plate is. If he said a gasket repairs the "top plate" he might mean the front of the HPOP where there's a gasket that seals the surface where the HPOP mounts to the reservoir. Every time I've pulled my HPOP I get a new gasket. It's about $20 from Clay. If you've ever pulled an HPOP, $20 is chump change to make sure you're not diving back for a bad gasket.
The non-serviceable plug is not a hard job to replace. I got the kit from a local IH with more threads. You just have to be careful to not overtorque it. Gronking on it ("tighter is better") is a sure way to strip the threads out.
Facing the front of the engine, can anyone tell me what that sensor is next to the water line coming out of the water pump in front of the HPOP reservoir? I have to remove it to get to the left fuel bowl bolt. Actually i just busted it trying to squeeze a socket in there. It's connected to a 1/4" tubing so am i to expect oil or fuel to come out when removed?
Actually, could i remove that small 2 bolt plate that hides the 18mm bolt which attaches the HPOP to the engine before I attempt to drain the HPOP reservoir or will removing the plate dump a lot of oil out? The sensor is mounted to that plate.
Sounds like you're talking about the EBP sensor. That line just holds air. The other end should connect to the front of the passenger side manifold.
You can take the tube off the manifold, clean it out, and cap the manifold port for a short time while you wait on a replacement sensor. Won't kill the motor or leak any fluids.
