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SD HPOP install write up. Part 1

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Old 10-06-2006, 02:19 AM
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SD HPOP install write up. Part 1

Okay guys, I know some of you are wanting to do a Super Duty High pressure oil pump install so this is how mine went. I want to write this up because I wanted a play by play before I started and couldn't find one. Just the basic stuff, pull the fuel bowl, lines bla, bla, bla. So here you go. ALL THIS IS FROM THE POINT OF VIEW AS IF YOU ARE LEANING OVER THE GRILL OF THE TRUCK.

First off I bought my pump and IPR from DieselSpecialists for $520. Thanks to 1997_F350 for the link.

1. Take off the engine cover if you still have it.

2. Drain the fuel bowl.

3. Pull the intake. 5/16 nut driver. Leave nitrous nozzle and line on.
(Some people say you don't have to remove the intake, but I found it to be alot easier than if I had left it. Three hose clamps and it's off.)

4. Take the two bolts out that hold the GPR and left engine cover mount. 8MM socket.
(This will make room for some fuel lines you need to get to down low.)

5. Unplug the wire harness on the left side of the fuel bowl.
(unplug the small part that is closest to you, it will look like you can unplug either end. don't unplug the side closest to the intake. Also, you don't need to take the torx screw out holding the rest of the plug to the fuel bowl.)

6. Unplug the IPR. (This and the connnetor in #5 are the only two connections you need to take loose. The harness that is fastened to the bowl and three connectors on the right side of the fuel bowl are one piece and will come out with the fuel bowl. The IPR is the only thing from that harness that will not come out with the fuel bowl.)

7. Take off the two braided stainless fuel lines at the front of the fuel pressure regulator with a 9/16 wrench.

8. Loosen the hose clamp on the fuel bowl drain petcock with a 1/4 nut driver. Use a long screwdriver to pry/push the drain line off. (It's about 6 inches long and just goes to a hard line without a hose clamp on the other end so it should push off pretty easy.

***FWIW, I used a 1/4 nut driver for all the fuel hose clamps, I find it alot easier than messing with a screw driver in tight spots.****

9. Loosen the hose clamps on the 2" piece of fuel hose coming off the back side of the FPR. Slide it down if you can, my lines were old and hard and I just left it loose till I pulled the bowl out.

***FWIW, I chose this time to replace all my soft fuel lines on and around the fuel bowl. They were hard and cracked. But wait till you get the bowl out to do it. 3/8 300 psi fuel line from both sides of the pump and on the very bottom of the fuel bowl, 5/16 300psi line on the petcock drain and the backside of the FPR. 2 feet of the 3/8, and 1 foot of the 5/16 to be safe.***

10. Pull off the heat shield that covers two hoses coming out of the fuel pump. (It just pulls off)

11. Loosen only the left hose at the pump, the right one stays. And one more line way down in the valley below those two.

12. Take out the two 13mm bolts on either side of the fuel bowl. (I used a 1/2 socket cuz it was handy. So that means it may have been a 12mm. I also used a 10" extention here.

13. Now you should be able to wiggle the fuel bowl loose from the two lines coming from the pump if you wiggle it towards you. The fuel bowl should lift out now, go easy and watch the wires. The braided fuel lines tried to get in my way.

14. Recover all the tools and crap that the valley has collected from jobs in the past.

15. Drain the HPOP reservoir. (This is where the Mity Vac tool was priceless. Even though I got it at Harbor Freight on clearance for $14.) I removed the allen plug on top of the reservoir and used the mity vac to suck all the oil out. Or at least all that I could.

16. Remove the gear cover above the water pump directly behind the heater hose. 2-8MM bolts???? Maybe 10MM, I can't remember

***FWIW I removed belt, it made messing with the gear alot easier.***

17. Remove the 18MM HPOP gear retaining bolt and washer. Here I used a long handled, swivel headed, double reverse, left handed, and triangulated ratchet with the right handed option. Better known as my favorite Snap-On ratchet. But seriously, long handled flex head ratchet with a 3" extention and a 6 point socket. This is not where you want to strip something, and trust me it's tight.

*****WARNING**** Be very aware of what that washer is doing. I suggest getting a mirror so you can look at it first to know what you are dealing with. It's one of those real thick jobs, like 7 or 8MM thick. If you move slow it will come out with the bolt no problem. I was just scared to death I was going to be the first one to find out where that hole goes. Luckily I didn't, but I can only imagine it would suck more than anything else has sucked before. Don't say I didn't warn you. ****WARNING****

18. Stick your finger in there and feel where the bolt just came from, you will need this reference later. Not for a measurement or anything like that, it's just helpful in knowing where the HPOP shaft needs to be.

19. Remove the two HP oil lines at the pump fittings. 11/16 wrench. The fitting closest to you will not need a back up wrench, just loosen it and take it off. (since I drained the res. not much came out of either line.) The one furthest from you, the 90* fitting doesn't need a back up wrench either. So I don't know why I just wrote that. But I know you will need one somewhere in this writeup, just not yet.

20. Remove the nut at the back of the IPR and pull the spacer and solinoid off and set aside. (I left the rest of the IPR in)

21. Now remove the two 10MM bolts from the back side of the oil pump. One is on the far left side and the other is at the 9 to 10 o'clock position of the IPR. They are different lengths, so note their orientation.

22. Depending on your dexterity (I'm right handed) Stick your left hand in the gear hole on the front and keep a finger in the middle of the gear in the bolt hole. (this will both allow you to feel when the gear is coming off, and ease your mind of the gear falling into the oil pan abiss. (From what I felt, the gear can't go anywhere, but I was cautious still.) With my right hand I grabbed the back of the pump and wiggled it up and down, and then up and down, SIDE TO SIDE!!!!! Go Cody, Go Cody!! Sorry, I got all excited, Diesel, oil, MODS!!!!!! HOLLER IF YA HEAR ME!!! At this point, if you have a friend there they are looking at you strangely, but you should feel the gear sliding off the oil pump shaft, and out the pump comes. Now check to make sure your gear is not going to fall and let it go and take the pump to a work bench.

23. Go back and get the gasket so you don't forget it.

24. Remove fittings from the oil pump. OH, THIS IS WHERE THE 90* NEEDS A BACKUP WRENCH!!!! I believe 11/16 for the nut and a 14MM on the fitting to unscrew it from the pump. And the straight fitting still doesn't need a backup.

25. Remove the old O-rings with a pic or small screw driver.

26. Remove fittings from new pump and put those O-rings on the old fittings.

****FWIW I took out the springs and left them out. From what I understand, this is not what controls bleedown. Since I want all the oil I can get, I view them as a restriction. Not to mention Jim from DIY-Injectors said yank them, and I trust what he says.******

27. Install the old fittings on the new pump in the same orientation they came off the old pump. Lube the O-rings with fresh oil. I'm sure there is a torque spec, but I just got them good and tight. BUT NOT TOO TIGHT, Ya feel me!!!

28. Install the IPR, I bought a new one to match the SD pump so I didn't mess with the old one. Again, lube the O-ring at the big nut.........I said "big nut". I used a deep 1/2 drive 1 1/8 socket with a junk screw driver welded on the back to turn it. You'll see what I mean. The IPR will stick through the 1/2 drive hole. But in a pinch, I think you could split the difference between the ratchet and IPR nut and make it work. I just wanted to make a new tool. Your choice. Again, good and tight......ish. Leave the solinoid, spacer and nut off for now.

29. Time for some cleanup. Some people may not like my method, and it may not be safe. But this is what I did. By now, there is about a cup or so of Oil/diesel in the valley. I just got the shop vac with a narrowed down end and sucked it all out of there along with alot of crap that had settled there. And at this point, I still don't know where that weather pac connector seal came from. Oh well. Anyway, clean the valley, now is your best chance. Then wipe down the oil pump gasket surface with a rag and carb cleaner or something of the sort.
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Old 10-06-2006, 02:20 AM
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SD HPOP install write up Part 2

30. Put the two 10MM bolts through the pump to help hold the new gasket on.....ish. I found it tricky.


31. At this point, go back out and check the gear again to make sure it didn't fall, or won't fall just to ease your mind so you can put the oil pump on without worring about it. You'll need both hands to keep the gasket on, and the bolts in when your wigglin' that mother back in it's home. ( there is enough room in there to get the gear on once you have the pump bolts started so the gasket won't fall.

32. Now that the two 10MM bolts are started and you still have some play on the pump, stick your fingers in there and start working the gear back on. It doesn't have to be on all the way, just enough so you know it's on before you tighten the two bolts up. The 18MM bolt will take it the rest of the way.

33. Tighten the two 10MM bolts. Again, Cody's torque spec, or whatever you like.

34. Re install HP oil lines so no crap gets in the pump.

35. Install the IPR solinoid, spacer and nut. Not too tight, that nut is some flimsy crap. Make sure the connector is on top.

36. Install 18MM oil pump gear bolt and washer.....spacer.....WHATEVER you know what I mean. Again, very carefully, your in the home stretch, and loosing that washer would suck even more now!!!!! (Now this one I went beyond good and tight. Here you want to be grunting and seriously worrying about knuckle safety.) I think the real torque spec is like 160 ft/lbs. But I'm a calibrated wrenching machine, and I know it's good.

37. Clean cover mating surface and cover. Apply a 1MM thick bead of Diesel approved RTV (Ford actually sells this because normal RTV screws with the oil somehow) around the edge and reinstall cover.

38. Reinstall belt.

****FWIW this is where I stopped to replace all my soft fuel lines.****
1a. Pull the old petcock drain line off the hard line, cut a new piece to length. 5/16 line. Put it on the hard line and leave the hose clamp at the petcock end on, just tight enough to keep it there.

2a. That one fuel line you left on the pump is next. 3/8 line. Loosen the nut holding the hardlines on the head right below the A/C compressor. Just loose. Take a razor or sharp knife and cut that hose off. You should be able to work the new soft line in with the play you now have PLAYA!!!! Don't forget the hose clamps and tighten them up, and the nut too.

3a. Take the fuel bowl assembly in the shop and put in in the vice. GENTLY!!!! Just to hold it where you can work on it. Or just lay it on the bench, I don't care. You know what I mean. For those of you that don't know what I mean, your in the wrong neighborhood tonight son. Only men, and extremely cool chicks hang out here.

4a. Take the small piece of line off the back of the FPR (if it's not still on the hard line back in the truck. Cut a new one, put it back on. 5/16 line. Either back on the hard line like I did (Slid down the hard line as to not interfere with the bowl install) hose clamps just hanging on, ya feel me! Or back on the FPR, your choice.

5a. Cut and install the last two 3/8 lines at the bottom and middle of the fuel bowl. Tighten the clamps at the bowl, leave the clamps at the other end on, but up the line a little so the hoses go back on the pump easily. Put a dab of oil, or diesel in those two lines so they slide on the pump nipples REAL easy like........nipples.

6a. Take the bowl assembly back out to the truck. (somewhere in this step you need to plugh the IPR back in. I forgot and it was a pain to plug in after the fact). Put the line in the middle of the housing on the pump first, work it on slightly, and then manuver the bottom hose on real easy like with your Powerstroke playa skills. Don't tighten up the clamps just yet. Check your bolt holes and see if they are gonna line up. If you have to change hose length now's the time. If their good, tighten the clamps up. Reinstall heat shield.

7a. Take a pair of long needle nose pliers and work the petcock drain hose on. Tighten the clamp.

8a. Work your majic on the line off the back of the FPR!
********

39. Install the two fuel bowl hold down bolts.

40. Reinstall the intake. I took the rubber boot off the left side and put it on the plentum. and slid the intake on the right side while working the left side on. Make sure you didn't lose the turbo to intake O-ring/seal. Line up the turbo, tighten the turbo clamp, then make sure the rubber hoses/boots are tight as well. All 5/16 nut driver.

41. Fill HPOP reservoir with fresh oil to the top.

42. Crap!!!!dont' forget the connector at the left side of the fuel bowl. And check the other connectors too just to be safe.

43. Double check all the hoses etc.

44. Start that Cummins eatin', Duramax for snacks munchin' Powerstroke up!!!

****FWIW My truck cranked for about 10 solid seconds before it fired up and ran rough for a few seconds and settled down.***

45. Go check for leaks, HURRY!

No leaks? Good, You are a bad Powerstroke wrenchin' Mama Jamma!! Take it for a test drive. Come back, check for leaks again, put the motor cover on, YOUR DONE!!!

Okay, here's my findings. You can look at my sig and see what my truck has. (Now with one more mod to add to that list ) To tell you the truth I couldn't tell much difference. Maybe a little stronger, maybe. But I wasn't after a power increase here. I'm just prepping for my 160cc DIY-injectors I have waiting on the shelf. I HATE check engine lights, and this will hopefully keep that from coming on with the new injectors. Now, my truck has always started on the first hit. Very quick, I like that. But after turning it off and restarting it, it took longer. I was not happy about that. I always scoffed at the Super Dutys for taking so long to start. But after a long day and 140+ miles, it starts just like it always did, quick. So rest easy on that one. So gentlemen, and those extremely cool chicks, enjoy your job well done and get ready for more mods, cuz your ready for more fuel now. And if you already have bigger squirters, flip that CEL the bird and MASH ON THAT THROTTLE PEDAL!!!! THE RUBBERDUCK IS OUT!!!!!!!!
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Old 10-07-2006, 12:14 AM
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Now that is one in depth write up.

Well done.
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Old 10-07-2006, 12:51 AM
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Thank you cookie. I hope someone gets some use out of it. That's what I wanted when I was searching. I got the normal vaige stuff. And they never have the go back together instructions. So I just did it on my skill alone. Which ain't much but, I got it done and that's the least I could give this community after all it's done for me. It's almost 1am here in TX, and I'm just taking a breather from installing my DIY 160cc injectors. My dodge buddy at work that I can never seem to beat is leaving the company and he will be at work one day more, and I'm gonna be swingin' for the fences. I actually took a week off at the end of Oct. to do all this, but he forced my hand. I want to try and send him on his way after getting his dodge spanked. We'll see. Well, back to injectors!!!!
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Old 10-07-2006, 02:32 PM
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Sounds like a good plan. Give him heck.

Don't forget to pull the IDM fuse and let the oil rails fill before you fire those injectors.
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Old 10-07-2006, 10:25 PM
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Yah Rubber Duck, That's what I've got to do, injectors. I did the SD hpop and IDM mod but under a real hard pull it will still miss.
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Old 10-07-2006, 10:31 PM
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Nice job RubberDuck I think this mod is on a lot of peoples "to do list", including me

"You are a bad Powerstroke wrenchin' Mama Jamma!!"

Great write up and let us know how she runs with your 160cc injector kit.
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:13 PM
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I'll write another thread about the injectors. But I will tell you this, it is a different truck. HOLY CRAP Before, I would be pushing 26-27 psi of boost on nitrous. Now, just straight diesel it just pegs the 35psi gauge I have. I filled the nitrous bottle today but haven't sprayed it yet. To tell you the truth, I'm kinda scared. I know these head studs won't tollerate much more than 40 psi, and I'm certain with the nitrous flowing we can get there in a hurry. And the smoke..............wow, huge smoke. Anyway, I'm at work, I'll write more on it later.
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:24 PM
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With stock injectors your able to hit 35+ psi? WOW!!!
What psi could you get running diesel only before?

Last edited by ForemanES; 10-09-2006 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 10-10-2006, 04:12 AM
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NO, NO, NO....I installed the DIY 160cc injectors I built. That's what I was saying made the difference. In the end of my HPOP writeup I was saying the pump itself really didn't make that much of a difference. And in my reply to cookie I was telling him that I was in the middle of my injector install. No, with stock injectors on the nitrous I was only seeing 26 psi max. But now with the new injectors I'm pegging my 35psi gauge. Sorry for the confusion.

Cookie, it looks like the Dodge buddy was a no show. At our company usually if someone gives their 2 week notice, they go on and walk them and pay them for the two weeks. So they called him and said they would just do an exit interview tommorrow morning. Since we are nightshifters, I won't get the chance to see him. We work in Austin TX, but he actually lives in Dallas. It's a long story I won't go into, but it's likely I won't see him for a pretty good while. So no race as of now. But it will happen some time down the road.
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Old 10-10-2006, 05:42 AM
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Technical writing with a sense of humor, It don't get any better than that.

Kudos to the Duck.
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:34 AM
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oh!! need to leard how to read

Glad its running good
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:11 PM
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Cuda_jim. Thanks for the compliment. In my confused mind, I find a technical how to much easier to understand if there is humor in it. I find that if your at a point that is potentially confusing, if you can get your mind to relax and laugh, it is quicker to make sense. Kinda like a written walk away and come back with a fresh look kinda thing. Does that make any sense? Anyway, that's the way I see it. Not to mention, I just love to make people laugh, even if it is at my own expense.

ForemanES, it's not your fault. With a writeup of that length, I'm certain I would have missed a whole lot more than you did. As a matter of fact, I'm still not for sure I didn't forget something. I wrote that two days after the install off the top of my head. But hopefully someone will use it and let me know.
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:30 PM
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Thumbs up SD HPOP install write up Part 1 & 2

Fantastic write-up. I'm a 10% disabled-vet still in physical therapy from back surgery but, I still want to do some mods.

Still have stock everything but, I'm catching up on the medical bills so that stock intake will be outta here by next year.

Your install is more more than I can handle for the near-future, so hopefully the stock unit will suffice until I'm ready.

Thanks again.
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:01 PM
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Moose, I hope you will soon be back to good as new. Take your time with the mods like you said. They are alot better if they are done at your leisure, and not hurried. Trust me, I know about the time thing. I've had a ton of mods sitting on the shelf for months but I don't want to rush them so I can enjoy doing them. Good luck man, and from me personally.........Thank you for your service, It's the guys like you that make it possible for us to do the things we love. And though we can never pay you for the risk you take to keep us safe, I myself am forever thankfull and in your debt. Thank you.
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