Coolant temp sensor?
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Coolant temp sensor?
I know there's been several threads on this, but I'm hoping to find some recent info as the threads I found are old.
From my understanding when you replace the coolant temp sensor you have to make sure you get the right one, or no dice. So I stopped by the stealership and talked to them. They said there's one "for the computer" which was $22 and the other for the gauge, which is $84.
I'm assuming the one I need to replace is the $84 one, as my gauge is flat.
And that's too rich for my blood...
So, I'm looking around on rockauto, and I see a handful of different ones. Anyone got one off of there recently and know if it works or not? Got a part number?
I was gonna get one from Advance near here, but they said they wouldn't return it if I installed it and it didn't work (seriously?).
From my understanding when you replace the coolant temp sensor you have to make sure you get the right one, or no dice. So I stopped by the stealership and talked to them. They said there's one "for the computer" which was $22 and the other for the gauge, which is $84.
I'm assuming the one I need to replace is the $84 one, as my gauge is flat.
And that's too rich for my blood...
So, I'm looking around on rockauto, and I see a handful of different ones. Anyone got one off of there recently and know if it works or not? Got a part number?
I was gonna get one from Advance near here, but they said they wouldn't return it if I installed it and it didn't work (seriously?).
More Turbo
Joined: May 2016
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I'm sure you can cross reference the sensor to determine what's available.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Elk Grove, CA
This is a confusing situation and I finally got it squared away in my head a while back. Here's a cut and paste from that thread:
"Sensor that sends coolant temp to the dash (ECT) is part number F65Z-10884-AA aka SW-5130 aka 36447 when found at Advance, Amazon etc. Mounts on top of water pump. All trucks the same on this one.
Sensor that sends engine temp to the PCM (EOT) is part number 3F1Z-12A648-A aka DY-1144. This same sensor is mounted in two different locations depending on transmission. Naturally, of course, why not. On autos it is on the back of HPOP, but on manual trucks it is mounted above CPS."
In this application the 12A648 sensor is sensing oil, but in other applications the same sensor is used in coolant. Another wrinkle.
"Sensor that sends coolant temp to the dash (ECT) is part number F65Z-10884-AA aka SW-5130 aka 36447 when found at Advance, Amazon etc. Mounts on top of water pump. All trucks the same on this one.
Sensor that sends engine temp to the PCM (EOT) is part number 3F1Z-12A648-A aka DY-1144. This same sensor is mounted in two different locations depending on transmission. Naturally, of course, why not. On autos it is on the back of HPOP, but on manual trucks it is mounted above CPS."
In this application the 12A648 sensor is sensing oil, but in other applications the same sensor is used in coolant. Another wrinkle.
Freshman User
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That was my line of thinking too until I put the new auto parts store one in and it still didn't work. Got one from the stealership and all is well.
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From: Vancouver
Some manufacturers make both after market and OEM. The whole process is different. The spec's and contracts for OEM are pretty detailed and there can be an inspection and reporting requirement that goes along with those parts, so that along with all the markups to make it worthwhile to do makes for a higher price.
But when you as an owner decide to buy a non-OEM, you are stepping outside to kind of a black market. You are saying I don't care about all that mumbo-jumbo, just give me the part. Sometimes that works, many times not, because the manufacturer is not going to give you the same quality, if he (the vendor) is not getting paid to produce quality. It is a process that folks who work in manufacturing intuitively understand, most of us don't.
And often, even the OEM parts can fail frequently (Takata air bag actuators) or certain computer manufacturers who use reverse auctions to source parts like hard drives, power supplies etc. Reverse auctions guarantees lowest price for the purchaser, does not necessarily deliver good quality, but they are very common in industry.
But when you as an owner decide to buy a non-OEM, you are stepping outside to kind of a black market. You are saying I don't care about all that mumbo-jumbo, just give me the part. Sometimes that works, many times not, because the manufacturer is not going to give you the same quality, if he (the vendor) is not getting paid to produce quality. It is a process that folks who work in manufacturing intuitively understand, most of us don't.
And often, even the OEM parts can fail frequently (Takata air bag actuators) or certain computer manufacturers who use reverse auctions to source parts like hard drives, power supplies etc. Reverse auctions guarantees lowest price for the purchaser, does not necessarily deliver good quality, but they are very common in industry.
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Is this better? [LINK]
I have a manual transmission block I'm working on, and the sensor to the PCM has a stud connector, where the dash gauge sensor has the fancy Ford connector.
I have a manual transmission block I'm working on, and the sensor to the PCM has a stud connector, where the dash gauge sensor has the fancy Ford connector.
Hows that for confusing?!
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