E350: No 3rd gear AT
#1
E350: No 3rd gear AT
My first post on this forum I'm the new owner of an old 2004 E350 van which doesn't shift into Drive (3rd gear). When I bought it, OD worked but now doesn't. I got it cheap as is, knowing there were tranny issues but now regretting the purchase. Good running van otherwise, but 7-8 mpg in 2nd gear all the time gets old fast.
I am hoping a tranny flush and fill will solve the issue. What other things can I do or check, especially while I have the bottom pan off?
Also, how do I identify what model of tranny I have, so I can get the right things I need beforehand?
I am hoping a tranny flush and fill will solve the issue. What other things can I do or check, especially while I have the bottom pan off?
Also, how do I identify what model of tranny I have, so I can get the right things I need beforehand?
#3
Check engine codes.
My 07 recently had an issue where it wouldn't shift beyond 3rd and it was due to a failed sensor. Sensor was cheap and easy to change.
I know your van and mine are very different but maybe you'll get lucky.
I guarantee the flush/fill won't solve the problem you have.
Mark Kovalsky is our resident expert on auto trans. And I think your model year is right up his alley.
My 07 recently had an issue where it wouldn't shift beyond 3rd and it was due to a failed sensor. Sensor was cheap and easy to change.
I know your van and mine are very different but maybe you'll get lucky.
I guarantee the flush/fill won't solve the problem you have.
Mark Kovalsky is our resident expert on auto trans. And I think your model year is right up his alley.
#4
#5
OK, here's a shot of the tranny pan and bell housing:
https://i.imgur.com/c9qyE94.jpg
Anyone know what model transmission I have?
https://i.imgur.com/c9qyE94.jpg
Anyone know what model transmission I have?
#6
From that photo I'm pretty confident that it's an automatic. I can't tell any more than that.
Look in the driver's door opening. There should be a data tag there. Under TR will be either a U or an E. U is 4R70W and E is 4R100. You could also count the pan bolts. The 4R70W has 14, the 4R100 has 20.
New fluid won't fix this. You need to get the codes read. The places that read codes free CANNOT read these codes. You need either a good independent shop or a Ford dealer.
Look in the driver's door opening. There should be a data tag there. Under TR will be either a U or an E. U is 4R70W and E is 4R100. You could also count the pan bolts. The 4R70W has 14, the 4R100 has 20.
New fluid won't fix this. You need to get the codes read. The places that read codes free CANNOT read these codes. You need either a good independent shop or a Ford dealer.
#7
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#9
Look in the driver's door opening. There should be a data tag there. Under TR will be either a U or an E. U is 4R70W and E is 4R100. You could also count the pan bolts. The 4R70W has 14, the 4R100 has 20.
New fluid won't fix this. You need to get the codes read. The places that read codes free CANNOT read these codes. You need either a good independent shop or a Ford dealer.
New fluid won't fix this. You need to get the codes read. The places that read codes free CANNOT read these codes. You need either a good independent shop or a Ford dealer.
The data tag says 5 under the TR. What's the deal there?
https://i.imgur.com/PL9vs3D.png
Vehicle was purchased at a state gov. auction if that says anything.
#10
#11
5.4L according to the tag on the front engine cowling. No other reference to engine size anywhere else on the van.
https://i.imgur.com/QaCPcVt.png
https://i.imgur.com/QaCPcVt.png
#12
Digging around the web, it seems the 2004 E-350 used the 4R75W.
The Ford dealer wants $85 for the privilege of hooking up their code reader to my van, and they are thrilled to have me wait a week to do so.
Like vettex2 I'm seeking DIY alternatives but it seems you have to be an electronic & digital wizard to do so. Not sure I want to pour my limited funds into that rabbit hole!
The Ford dealer wants $85 for the privilege of hooking up their code reader to my van, and they are thrilled to have me wait a week to do so.
Like vettex2 I'm seeking DIY alternatives but it seems you have to be an electronic & digital wizard to do so. Not sure I want to pour my limited funds into that rabbit hole!
#13
Some did. Some had the 4R100.
If you don't get the codes read, all you need to do is find out what's wrong and fix it. It's that simple. None of us know what's wrong without knowing the codes.
A good independent shop usually will charge less to read the codes and do it right away.
If you don't get the codes read, all you need to do is find out what's wrong and fix it. It's that simple. None of us know what's wrong without knowing the codes.
A good independent shop usually will charge less to read the codes and do it right away.
#15
Any decent shop is going to have a tool that can read codes. Parts stores use the cheapest generic tools that can only read the generic codes that the government says must be accessible to any reader.
You might want to ask if they can read Ford specific codes. I don't have a comprehensive list of all the scan tools that can read those codes.
You might want to ask if they can read Ford specific codes. I don't have a comprehensive list of all the scan tools that can read those codes.
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