When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello all. I am 100% caught in a bind right now. It all started with a clogged oil cooler and a high pressure oil leak in my 2006 F-250 Powerstroke. Me and my father installed BPD's air-to-oil cooler along with replacing O-rings in both oil rails, all 8 injectors, replaced the dummy plugs and stand pipes with the updated ones, also replaced the snap-to-connect fitting with the updated version along with the new gaskets and O-rings that were included, as well all new 8 glow plugs. Pretty much, my truck went into major surgery. Everything was a success. My truck was running temperatures well over the 15 degree difference Ford recommends. With this new cooler, the EOT never went over 215 degrees while running the engine around 85 MPH down the interstate. Yes, I know the 15 degree rule is no longer applied. My truck also started like a champ after being heated up. So everything was solved.
Until....
I started it one evening and noticed it took a bit for it to start. Didn't think too much of it, figured it took the glow plugs a bit to warm up. I let it idle for a good five minutes, and it started to surge. Up and down, so I thought maybe not all the air inside the engine was purged. So I decided to hit the interstate again, but ran it at 65 MPH just to check and make sure everything is fine. Well, I noticed the RPMs after I let off the throttle were a few hundred higher than before the surgery. I shook it off thinking with all the new O-rings and such maybe its better pressure within the engine, resulting in higher RPMs. But I could be wrong. I'm out about fourty-five minutes from home, and the engine dies. RPMs go down, I'm losing speed, my power steering and brakes quit working. I had to get on the shoulder. Thought it may be a malfunction with one of the battery cables, because the battery light shot on, but they were connected fine, hence all the lights being on inside the cab. I still checked to make sure.
I checked online, and some people are saying it is a failed HPOP, some are saying it is a failed ICP sensor. Diesel techs on youtube say if you unplug the ICP and it starts, it is failed. BUT, it did not start while the ICP is unplugged. Maybe it is the IPR screen, me and my father were pretty damn clean while the operation was being done. But maybe not clean enough. I know there are some very knowledgeable people on these forums, or people who have experienced this themselves. So.. PLEASE HELP. Also sorry for the long thread, figured it would help yall help me knowing exactly whats been going on. This is my work truck and I need it back on the road by Monday.
Thanks in Advance, Stanley 6.0
Odds are it is not the HPOP, late builds rarely fail. Sounds like this might be more electrical in nature. Do you have anything to monitor data live that we can take a look at some numbers?
Hello all. I am 100% caught in a bind right now. It all started with a clogged oil cooler and a high pressure oil leak in my 2006 F-250 Powerstroke. Me and my father installed BPD's air-to-oil cooler along with replacing O-rings in both oil rails, all 8 injectors, replaced the dummy plugs and stand pipes with the updated ones, also replaced the snap-to-connect fitting with the updated version along with the new gaskets and O-rings that were included, as well all new 8 glow plugs. Pretty much, my truck went into major surgery. Everything was a success. My truck was running temperatures well over the 15 degree difference Ford recommends. With this new cooler, the EOT never went over 215 degrees while running the engine around 85 MPH down the interstate. Yes, I know the 15 degree rule is no longer applied. My truck also started like a champ after being heated up. So everything was solved.
Until....
I started it one evening and noticed it took a bit for it to start. Didn't think too much of it, figured it took the glow plugs a bit to warm up. I let it idle for a good five minutes, and it started to surge. Up and down, so I thought maybe not all the air inside the engine was purged. So I decided to hit the interstate again, but ran it at 65 MPH just to check and make sure everything is fine. Well, I noticed the RPMs after I let off the throttle were a few hundred higher than before the surgery. I shook it off thinking with all the new O-rings and such maybe its better pressure within the engine, resulting in higher RPMs. But I could be wrong. I'm out about fourty-five minutes from home, and the engine dies. RPMs go down, I'm losing speed, my power steering and brakes quit working. I had to get on the shoulder. Thought it may be a malfunction with one of the battery cables, because the battery light shot on, but they were connected fine, hence all the lights being on inside the cab. I still checked to make sure.
I checked online, and some people are saying it is a failed HPOP, some are saying it is a failed ICP sensor. Diesel techs on youtube say if you unplug the ICP and it starts, it is failed. BUT, it did not start while the ICP is unplugged. Maybe it is the IPR screen, me and my father were pretty damn clean while the operation was being done. But maybe not clean enough. I know there are some very knowledgeable people on these forums, or people who have experienced this themselves. So.. PLEASE HELP. Also sorry for the long thread, figured it would help yall help me knowing exactly whats been going on. This is my work truck and I need it back on the road by Monday.
Thanks in Advance, Stanley 6.0
I would pull the IPR and make sure the screen isn't damaged. It's quite common after oil cooler work to have lint from rags get caught on the screen and get pulled into the valve and it hangs open.
COULD be all kids of things, but most common problem after oil cooler work is IPR.
^^^This. I'd pull FICM volts just because it is easy and simple to do. If that fails we could hook you up of course. If it passes though, I'd pull the IPR valve and do some inspection - torn up screens are common. Just use an awl to carefully pry off the current screen and use a 1/4" diameter bolt to depress the valve assemby while pumping brake cleaner through the sides. DieselTechRon's YouTube channel has a great How-To.
Thank you very much guys, every little bit of info that yall provided was put into major consideration. And I am very sorry for the late response, been busy with a bunch of other things. LIFE.
Anywho, I did ultimately end up pulling the IPR, and inspecting. The screen was clogged with all kinds of lint. It was obvious what had happened. We replaced the screen and it literally cranked no more than 4 times before it roared again. My truck was back on the road.
07-29-2016, 09:26 PM
Yes, I know the 15 degree rule is no longer applied. My truck also started like a champ after being heated up. So everything was solved.
