Agreed, but since his connectors are bare then the shrink wrap can't hurt anything.

 

I don't disagree ... It's actually one of the things I do first off, it helps hold the crusty connectors together.

I use the Adhesive kind for the glue it together purpose, not for sealing ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Well this morning I looked everything over again. The GPR is wired correctly, all connections are clean and shiney.
I connected the white wire from the controller to the relay. Turned the ignition on and listened. The relay clicked once then paused for a couple three seconds then the relay clicked three or four times. Got in and tried to start it and it started after turning over a few times.
I think my controller is indeed good. I also think think the controller is seeing too much resistance in either the harness or connectors.
In a few days when that shrink tubing awhtx is sending me I'm going to pull the harness, look it over, replace it or if it's good solder on new connectors and shrink tubing.

I don't know what else to do. I've been over everything multiple times.

It works great with the push button switch but I want to get it fixed like it's supposed to be.

 

Are you getting voltage to the GP's at that point with the controller hooked up?
I would attach a test light to the GP side of the GPR so you can see it when you turn on the key ...

Do the drop test ... That will tell you if you have wiring issues.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I didn't check voltage (other chores to do) but I think so festus. The engine started.

I will put the test light on tomorrow and also will do the drop test. Let you know what I come up with.

 

the very first thing i do with a diesel is put a light on the output of the glow plug relay. used to use a small 12 volt bulb, these days i use a 12 volt LED. this gives me positive proof the system is either working or not. if the light comes on, it is working. if it don't it ain't. i have never trusted the wait to start light, i have seen way too many times the WTS light up but no power go to the plugs.

 

Well I first put my test light on the output side (where the glow plug harness wires fit on the controller), turned the key on and the relay clicked and the test light lit up. Sweet!

I then did the drop test exactly like you said festus and my meter showed each plug just over 3 volts.

Just for piece of mind I'm going to put new connectors on the glow plug harness along with the shrink tube awhtx sent me.

The truck fired up this morning....sweet!!!.... no more ether!!!!

I believe I have my problem fixed. Thanks to everyone for all the help and advice. Couldn't have done it without you.

 

Awesome ...

That I know of there are no correct replacement connectors ... It's best just to clean them and shrink tube them.

I did try to get a company I have dealt a lot with make them. They ultimately said not enough market!

Some just use female bullet connectors, I find they don't fit well and cannot carry the amps but do work as a last resort.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Alright thanks for the info. I'll clean and shrink tube them.

 

Ok, I'm new to a 88 7.3 diesel in a e250. I had a clicking relay. Most glow plugs burned out. I replaced the glow plugs and still had the clicking relay. All new glow plugs good. The ground and voltage supply good. I thought the glow plug controller was good but suspect it is now bad.

I disconnected the white wire and created a pushbutton glow plug override switch to start the relay. As soon as I did, the relay worked fine. I didn't replace the controller yet and just wanted to get the motor started. Previously I was able to start the motor once with the block heater, though it took a little longer to crank over.

Now, with my manual glow plug momentary button, I hold it for 5 to 15 seconds depending on outside temp and it started right up 45 degrees outside.

One test I have, I'm not sure if this is a true test but when I turn the ignition I also hold down the glow plug manual warmup button I created. When this happens all 8 glow plugs are warming up. But, the glow plug controller flashes the wait light and then it immediately goes out. This is what I am going to call my test. I would suspect that with my glow plug button override, it would supply power to the glow plugs and the controller should measure that and respond accordingly. With this override, I would expect the controller to keep the wait to start light on while my glow plugs are manually warming up.

Another point is I wonder if the clicking controller relay may have caused premature glow plug failure.

As such I'm on the fence on replacing the controller or just maintaining manual override for starting the motor. I almost feel like I will do a better job to control and warm the glow plugs allowing for less wear, not automatically running the plugs when the motor is warm.

Having the button installed is now I think a great option even if I go back to the controller because having an override available could become useful if there is a future problem. I am also adding an analog 12V meter so you can see the voltage at the plugs and how it changes during warmup. This can also help indicate when there may be a glow plug problem when you see a change in the glow plug response in the meter output.