Hello everyone,

Alright well just tested glow plug relay and was bad no current to other side of terminal s ok I bought a new one and still getting zero voltage on opossite side of terminal. Does that mean controller is out.

 

Does the relay click?

 

did they give you a glow plug relay, or starter relay? they look the same, but work different.
starter relay is a case ground, glow plug relay is internal ground by one of the small terminals on top.

 

Tjc, according to napa store rep, they are the same.
How can I tell the difference the one I got has a I and S which from reading these forums tells me I got a starter relay?
How can I test to make sure.

 

So I'm sure I got the wrong glow plug, dam napa guys, does anybody have the part number from napa for the glow plug relay.

Thanks

 

https://www.fordparts.com/Products/R...lugRelays.aspx
Click on find parts, enter your VIN, get part number.

 

GPR7 at O'Reilly.

Take a volt/Ohm meter with you. Set the meter on Ohms and touch the leads to the 2 small posts. If there is no continuity you have a starter relay. If there is continuity you have a glow plug relay.

 

yup, the parts monkey gave you the wrong part if he said they are the same thing.
napa glow plug relay would be the GPR-109

 

So I tested it like you said and it reads 4 ohm, it is part number gpr 109 napa.

I'm lost now?

So when I connect it to my truck I get no vtage reading from the other side of the of the main terminal.
And my wait light turns on and off right away.

Voltage to power side of glow plug relay is 12.6 both small terminals have voltage also. I can recall exactly how much .

 

And it started today after I used something to jump the relays.

 

A good controller and relay will not work properly if the glow plugs or the wiring to them is bad.

Do you have Motorcraft/Beru ZD9 glow plugs?

 

Yes I have zd9 glow plug that read low voltage all 8 below 4ohms

I'm really to my wits with this, can any body offer some more advice

 

So if the glow system works once the relay is jumped, wouldn't that point to a bad controller? Joshofalltrades just went through this too, a few weeks ago.
I've been on manual activation for years so I'm not versed in the controller stuff. My bet is controller.

 

it could be a bad controller, or it could just be bad connections.

 

I went through this a couple of months ago.
When I turned the key ON the GPR would start clicking continuously. I pulled all of the GPs (ZD9s) out of the engine and connected each one to a battery and they all glowed red. I unwrapped the GP wiring harness and checked for broken wires and melted insulation and found nothing.
I bought a new GPC/R and it clicked just like the old one. The GPC/R consists of 2 parts- the GPR (Relay) which is sold separately and the GPC (Controller) which is not sold separately.

I was at my wits end just like you.
I had noticed that the thick yellow insulation was melted off of each of the female connectors on the GP wiring harness. I found some heavy duty heat shrink tubing that consisted of 2 "tubes"- a gray tube inside of a white tube. I shrunk a piece of this heat shrink tubing on each of the female connectors and attached them to the GPs. I turned the key ON and the GPC/R worked exactly like it is supposed to.
The female connectors have a spring loaded snap that clicks onto the GP. I came to the conclusion that without the shrink tubing this snap does not lock firmly onto the GP and the loose connection causes problems with the GPC.

Do your female connectors still have the yellow insulation on them?