Update:
I got a BWD GPR8 controller. I had purchased the BWD GPR7 relay from them and since you can't buy a new controller separately from the relay I bought the new controller assembly and they allowed me to remove the new relay from the new controller, put it in the GPR7 box that I still had and exchange it for the GPR8. I know it's not Motorcraft but it has a lifetime warranty so if it craps out I'll I get a new one free.
Installed it on the engine, connected the wires and click-click-click-click. I also connected the harness wiring to the Cold Idle Solenoid, the Cold Idle Advance and the FSS where I had been just using a jumper wire to the FSS. When I turned the key to Start I only got a click from the starter solenoid. Removed the wire connector from the FSS, attached my jumper wire and the engine cranked over just fine. Well I must have wiring harness problems so I removed the entire engine wiring harness, removed the plastic shield and started examining the wires. No shorts found.
Since I don't have an E4OD I removed the TECA relay which has 3 wires going back to the 12 pin connector and one wire going to the Water In Fuel sensor. Why would the WIF wire go through the TECA?
The R/GR wire that provides power to the coil of the GPR was spliced (by the factory) into the R/GR wire that goes to the FSS. Since I now have 3 empty ports (from the TECA) in the 12 pin connector I separated the GPR from the FSS wire and gave each of them their own separate wires.
I did a lot of connectivity checking with my VOM and found that the coolant temp sensor in the right front corner of the intake manifold was Open. This sensor open/closes the wiring to the fast idle and timing advance solenoids. That sensor is obviously bad since it should be Closed at room temp and Open at high (150*?) coolant temp.
I haven't put the harness back in place yet but I'm working on it. I'll get this thing figured out sooner or later!

 

I know nothing about the BWD stuff, Nor do I care ... I'll stick with OEM even if I have to pay twice (or more) the amount from a salvage yard!
My concern is not failure ... It's proper operation!

I'm really not that picky about OEM, except for some items ... Mostly electrical items!
OEM's are known to do some funky stuff to foil the aftermarket.

None of the other items will affect the Glow System Operation ... And minus the controller you have tested that.

The Cold Start Thermal switch is actually located in the head, it's difficult to replace without pulling the Thermostat housing but can be done with the right combo of tools. Careful, they are breakable with one slip of the wrench!
Last one I bought was ~$40 for OEM.
And just to keep the info straight, they are normally closed and open at 112*F.
Yup, If it's open cold, it's dead dead dead ...

Red/Green tracer is the ignition power circuit, whatever on the motor uses ignition power will have a red/green wire. Separation is pointless, it doesn't draw enough current to sweat.

You definitively seem to have other wiring issues ... The FSS wire (Red/Green tracer) should not affect the starter!

Also, I just re-read this thread and I find it was Hijacked at Post #13 ... I'm wondering if the OP has resolved their issues or feels abandoned.
I didn't realize you were not the OP or I would have asked you to start your own thread. It's kinda late now though.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I'm still trying to resolve my problems festus. Thanks for acknowledging me.

 

My apologies Dashriprock1977!
We have not abandon you ... Maybe we get a little side tracked at times, but never abandonment!

Can we assume you are working on the 89 listed in your profile ... If so, most of this applies to your truck as well.

Got a question fell free to jump in, this is your thread ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

It's all good. Yes I'm working on my 89 f250 7.3L pickup. Waiting on parts. I will chime in after I see where what happens with the new parts.

 

Ok, Cool ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I removed the thermostat housing to get the switch out and it's a good thing I did because I found a Chinese thermostat.

I too was concerned about hijacking the OP after my posts got numerous. I am hoping that maybe some of this information will help him with his diagnosis of a similar problem.

 

Eeeew ... Good job, probably saved yourself some headache down the road!

Thank you ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Well after putting in the new glow plug relay the glow plugs are still not heating up. After running through the tests mentioned earlier in the thread my controller is gone.

Should have bought the relay/controller as one unit. Live and learn. Lol

 

What's not happening or happening ... Any clicking.

Have you bypassed the controller by removing the white wire and using a jumper wire to ground the terminal you removed the white wire from, with KeyOn.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Yes I did. The relay clicks.

 

Just trying to cover all bases here before you throw more money at it ...

I'll assume the "Yes I did" means you bypassed the controller and this is when it clicks, does it also give power to the glow plugs?

But when it's hooked up properly and you turn the key on you get no clicks and it doesn't power the Glow Plugs.

Is that correct?

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Yes that's correct.

 

Success at last.
As previously mentioned I removed the complete wiring harness from the engine and removed it all from the black plastic tubing. I didn't find any glaring shorts or broken wires.
When I had previously removed all of the glow plugs and tested them individually I found 7 of the female connectors were bare and 1 had a small bit of yellow insulation on it. While I had it off of the engine I got some heavy duty shrink wrap that my now departed F-I-L had acquired somewhere. It consisted of a white outer tube with a separate gray inner tube. I tested it with a heat gun and it required quite a bit of heat to shrink it. The ID of the gray tube was a close fit on the female connectors. I shrunk some of it on all 8 of the connectors.
Deciding there was nothing else I could do I laid the harness on top of the injector lines instead of trying to snake it in under them where it belongs. As I connected each connector to its GP it was obvious that the connectors were a much tighter fit than before. I also connected a light bulb to the WTS wire which provides the ground for the light and connected a hot wire to it.
Holding my breath I turned the key ON and the bulb lit up. 1001-1002-1003-1004-1005-1006-1007-1008-1009 and it went out. Cranked the engine and after 2 or 3 seconds it fired up.
Obviously the semi-tight connectors on each glow plug were not conducting the required electricity to the glow plugs.

So Drr1977- check the tightness of the glow plug connectors on the glow plugs.

 

Awesome ...

So when you did the Drop test were you connected to the wire connectors and not the glow plugs terminal themselves?

-Enjoy
fh : )_~