When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Having to remove the driver side head to reach a nut dropped down the plenum
Originally Posted by Archy
I wish I did that's really good info to have. Are these good numbers for the 6.0 & 6.4 as well ? My understanding is there the same part number for the lifters ? Also I wanted to post this pic of how I lifted the head cause I was going to make a tool but figured I would try a chain just to see and it worked great the bolts are M8X1.25 X 1-1/2" long
I'm having to remove the driver's side head to reach a nut that was dropped down the plenum during the replacement of the turbo pedestal, thanks for showing me how to attach the chain to remove the head.
Any tips on loosening the head?
AND
Do I need to remove the turbo and pedestal again for this job? (Yes, got it all the way back on before I was told a nut dropped down the plenum.)
I'm having to remove the driver's side head to reach a nut that was dropped down the plenum during the replacement of the turbo pedestal, thanks for showing me how to attach the chain to remove the head.
Any tips on loosening the head?
AND
Do I need to remove the turbo and pedestal again for this job? (Yes, got it all the way back on before I was told a nut dropped down the plenum.)
Why pull the head? Did you try fishing with a magnet down the intake first?
The plenuns are removable and there is a 270 degree chance the intake valve that the wayward piece of hardware that found it's way down there is still sitting on top of the valve.
Why pull the head? Did you try fishing with a magnet down the intake first?
The plenuns are removable and there is a 270 degree chance the intake valve that the wayward piece of hardware that found it's way down there is still sitting on top of the valve.
I did. Unfortunately, neither I nor my husband could find it and it was assumed it must not be down there, all pieces were reassembled and the truck turned over and ran. Then we heard an awful sound and I screamed at him to turn it off. I wasn't listened to. Instead, he continued running the truck and turned it around in the driveway.
I have already removed the valve cover (gasket, rocker arms, push rods, glow plugs and bolts) the exhaust manifold, the alternator, the driver's side front bracket and drained the radiator.
No radiator fluid found in oil
One push rod was slightly bent
Borescope shows some damage to the head gasket where the push rod goes through. I am PRAYING this is the extent of the damage (but not optimistic).
I can't really see much else until I pull the head.
I have a new head gasket, Goof Off, two new intake valves, two new exhaust valves and a new push rod. Picked up a little engine assembly lube too
I am ready to pull the head, just need to know if I should pull the turbo and pedestal first.
I did. Unfortunately, neither I nor my husband could find it and it was assumed it must not be down there, all pieces were reassembled and the truck turned over and ran. Then we heard an awful sound and I screamed at him to turn it off. I wasn't listened to. Instead, he continued running the truck and turned it around in the driveway.
I have already removed the valve cover (gasket, rocker arms, push rods, glow plugs and bolts) the exhaust manifold, the alternator, the driver's side front bracket and drained the radiator.
No radiator fluid found in oil
One push rod was slightly bent
Borescope shows some damage to the head gasket where the push rod goes through. I am PRAYING this is the extent of the damage (but not optimistic).
I can't really see much else until I pull the head.
I have a new head gasket, Goof Off, two new intake valves, two new exhaust valves and a new push rod. Picked up a little engine assembly lube too
I am ready to pull the head, just need to know if I should pull the turbo and pedestal first.
UGH.
Piston is made of aluminum and the rest of the engine is iron. If you have long term plans for this truck, just pull the whole thing out and remove that piston at the bare minimum for replacement. Ring grooves most likely will be crushed down and the rings are binding. Short term plans are up to your discretion.
UGH.
Piston is made of aluminum and the rest of the engine is iron. If you have long term plans for this truck, just pull the whole thing out and remove that piston at the bare minimum for replacement. Ring grooves most likely will be crushed down and the rings are binding. Short term plans are up to your discretion.
I am hoping that the nut is caught in the valve, I won't know until I pull the head. Do I need to pull the turbo and the pedestal in order to pull the head?
I am hoping that the nut is caught in the valve, I won't know until I pull the head. Do I need to pull the turbo and the pedestal in order to pull the head?
Never tried that to know. I would say yes, just to make the job a whole lot easier in the long run. Spend two hours to save six, kind of like that.
In regards to my earlier comment, if the nut never made it down into the cylinder and the valve held open by the nut, causing the piston to contact the valve, then hopefully the worst that you have to do is get the bent valves fixed. I've replaced plenty of cylinder heads on VW diesels when I was still working that broke thier timing belts. Piston crowns always had valve marks on the top of them and the cylinder heads were completely ruined. Old VW Rabbits with solid lifters would have the camshafts blown up out of the cylinder heads because SOMETHING had to give and the entire head was the weak spot. Not so much on a rocker arm engine such as yours. Bent push rod, bent rocker arm is what you'll be dealing with, bent valve, etc. If nothing actually fell through, you should be good, other than having to get the cylinder head hardware repaired.
Also, consider adding a cherry picker to your list of tools. Unless you're a body builder, those heads can get real heavy in the awkward position you'll find yourself in trying to remove it. Herniated discs are nothing to trifle with.
Never tried that to know. I would say yes, just to make the job a whole lot easier in the long run. Spend two hours to save six, kind of like that.
In regards to my earlier comment, if the nut never made it down into the cylinder and the valve held open by the nut, causing the piston to contact the valve, then hopefully the worst that you have to do is get the bent valves fixed. I've replaced plenty of cylinder heads on VW diesels when I was still working that broke thier timing belts. Piston crowns always had valve marks on the top of them and the cylinder heads were completely ruined. Old VW Rabbits with solid lifters would have the camshafts blown up out of the cylinder heads because SOMETHING had to give and the entire head was the weak spot. Not so much on a rocker arm engine such as yours. Bent push rod, bent rocker arm is what you'll be dealing with, bent valve, etc. If nothing actually fell through, you should be good, other than having to get the cylinder head hardware repaired.
Also, consider adding a cherry picker to your list of tools. Unless you're a body builder, those heads can get real heavy in the awkward position you'll find yourself in trying to remove it. Herniated discs are nothing to trifle with.
I have a 2 ton hoist I'll be pulling the head with. I appreciate what you said on the turbo and pedestal, they were a giant paun in the rear to get back in, but better an extra couple hours work that breaking an expensive part.
Thank you!
Kwik can i pm you about the vw diesel? The guys and i at work have talked about buying one of the guys on the job a 80s vw diesel. This guy drives 100miles one way every day for work. He has half a dozen kids and struggles with vehicles.
Kwik can i pm you about the vw diesel? The guys and i at work have talked about buying one of the guys on the job a 80s vw diesel. This guy drives 100miles one way every day for work. He has half a dozen kids and struggles with vehicles.
Yes. I used to own a repair shop in Seattle called Louis Foreign Car Repair. Bought it in 1986, from the previous owner, never changed the name, but it was my business until 2020, when I sold it to my employee and retired. I would be glad to help in any way that I can.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.