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2002 7.3 Head Removal

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Old May 14, 2016 | 10:27 PM
  #16  
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They all look like this. Some are worse some are better but definatley an issue
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 10:33 PM
  #17  
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Here are more
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 10:56 PM
  #18  
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Looks like valve seals to me?
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 10:58 PM
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I'm thinking so
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 11:37 PM
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Going to do valve guides as well while you're in there?

I would also check the bore just for sh@ts and giggles to see if you can still see the cross hatch.
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 11:45 PM
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It was to dark to get a picture of them but there still there. I will post one up tomorrow cause the #2 cyl has some scoring. The heads will be totally rebuild with new guides valves seats cups and orings unless there is something else I should get ? That is what I quoted the guy but if there is something else worth checking then I will do it.
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 11:50 PM
  #22  
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Never done heads on a 7.3 so I'm not sure... I'll post if I can think of anything.

How difficult will it be to bleed the coolant system? I'm looking at replacing my radiator soon as my old one is beat to hell.
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 11:56 PM
  #23  
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Oh I would check the lifters and can while I was in there! Make sure push rods look okay. I've heard you can't replace the lifters without pulling the heads so might as well take a look while your in there!
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 11:59 PM
  #24  
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O and thanks for the advice on the hoist. Thos things are HEAVY ! I could bearly pick it up to move it after I took it off. I'm used to the 6.0 head. Not to bad
 
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Old May 15, 2016 | 06:48 AM
  #25  
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I was hoping there was an explanation that didn't require pulling the heads, but in the end it looks like that was what had to happen.
 
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Old May 15, 2016 | 03:00 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Otto396
Oh I would check the lifters and can while I was in there! Make sure push rods look okay. I've heard you can't replace the lifters without pulling the heads so might as well take a look while your in there!
All the pushrods checked out I checked them for strait as I pulled them and you are correct. There is no way to check the lifters with the heads on so they are going to get checked out.
 
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Old May 15, 2016 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
I was hoping there was an explanation that didn't require pulling the heads, but in the end it looks like that was what had to happen.
the heads getting pulled was the last option. We have been trying to pin point the smoking issue for a while now. We first suspected the heads but all the other parts that were changed needed to be changed or rebuilt anyway so we figured if it smoked after it had all the new parts in then we would pull them and it still smoked. Also the head bolts were extremely tight. They really seemed like they were tty. Definatley not 105ft lbs

Here is the cylinder that I was concerned about its very faint
 
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Old May 15, 2016 | 03:09 PM
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Do you have a leakdown test fixture for lifters, or just a visual inspection? If you have a test fixture, here are some specs in case you need them:
 
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Old May 15, 2016 | 06:26 PM
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I wish I did that's really good info to have. Are these good numbers for the 6.0 & 6.4 as well ? My understanding is there the same part number for the lifters ? Also I wanted to post this pic of how I lifted the head cause I was going to make a tool but figured I would try a chain just to see and it worked great the bolts are M8X1.25 X 1-1/2" long
 
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Old May 15, 2016 | 06:47 PM
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The part is the same for all three engines, so I can't see the specs being any different.
 
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