1990 power window(s) work sometimes
1990 power window will not work at all or go down and not come back up until it wants to. Or the other way around. new motor on drivers side took and switched the 2 switches in driver door still did not work but switch worked right for the other window changed it back and nothing tested switches ok. now the passenger side has now done it once but it has not done both at the same time yet? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. HOPE I DID THIS RIGHT SORRY IF I DID NOT.FIRST TIME
THANKS KENDAL
THANKS KENDAL
I'll take a first guess...not an expert on F-series power windows, tho.
A general rule I've learned is that if it's acting screwy and inconsistent, check grounding first. I can imagine a scenario where stresses in the track and arms on the window mechanism flex to make the ground in one direction, then flex another way where the ground fails.
The next place I would look is in limit switches, if they exist...someone more familiar can confirm/correct.
A general rule I've learned is that if it's acting screwy and inconsistent, check grounding first. I can imagine a scenario where stresses in the track and arms on the window mechanism flex to make the ground in one direction, then flex another way where the ground fails.
The next place I would look is in limit switches, if they exist...someone more familiar can confirm/correct.
1990 power window(s) work sometimes
thanks Kendal
Lots of good window info contained in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...r-rebuild.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...r-rebuild.html
I just went through this on my driver door, didn't think it was motor since it worked intermittently before it died all together.
My advice would be check voltage up/down at switch with multi meter or continuity light, then further down at the connector near motor. I had full voltage all way to this point, motor was bad. I've read the wiring from cab through driver door area is a common failure point if no voltage to switch.
As an aside for those who are shopping for window motors, NAPA offers rebuilt Ford units for about same cost as a new offshore motor. I looked at both, the offshore part was made very cheaply (mostly injected plastic). Rebuilt unit looks well done, and they evidently addressed some original design flaws to boot.
My advice would be check voltage up/down at switch with multi meter or continuity light, then further down at the connector near motor. I had full voltage all way to this point, motor was bad. I've read the wiring from cab through driver door area is a common failure point if no voltage to switch.
As an aside for those who are shopping for window motors, NAPA offers rebuilt Ford units for about same cost as a new offshore motor. I looked at both, the offshore part was made very cheaply (mostly injected plastic). Rebuilt unit looks well done, and they evidently addressed some original design flaws to boot.
I had the intermittent thing going on with my drivers side, it was the wiring harness between the door and the cab, grabbed the flexible rubber and moved it back and forth, then the window started working again, so had to go in, find the broken wire, finish cutting it, soldered it, heat shrank it and good to go.
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